An American Rube in Paris

[Matt]

Originally Posted by globetrotter

I will have to be in vietnam before august, though.
cooool.

HCMC or Hanoi?

 

[globetrotter]

Originally Posted by m@T

cooool.

HCMC or Hanoi?


I'm going to be looking for a local partner - so probrably both. I'll let you know when things firm up.

 

[jamesbond]

What are the key differences between there demi-measure and there full bespoke? It seems the price jump is not much to go all bespoke, i suspect this is what you chose?

 

[whnay.]

Berluti

After much internal strife I decided against my better judgment and went into Berluti's St. Germain location. By internal strife I'm referring to Berluti's somewhat marred reputation on these boards as making shoes much too delicate for everyday use.

For our Paris members I'd suggest a visit if only to gaze at the hot blonde that works there, just is a stunning example of Parisian beauty. Anyway I digress.

I tried the Olga III (990EU), Olga (900EU) and the Andy (900EU). The Club III line is characterized by a much narrower last which to my estimation would not be able to fit only the crow feet among us. Even the Club line was tight and so I asked the fitter what other options were available to me, she mentioned the full bespoke which if memory serves was 2500EU+ and demi-measure which was 1250EU. Demi-measure allows for slight modifications to the last as well as custom patina service, they used the same paper work that they use with bespoke (foot on a piece of paper, etc). As I was only concerned with slight modifications I decided to forgo painting my shoes red and green went with a truffle brown color. They will be ready in early March. I'll post pics when I get them.

 

[Artisan Fan]

Great comments Bill. Thanks.

I'm a lone defender at times of Berluti quality on this board and AAAC. I personally think they make a nice shoe. I'll look forward to seeing your shoes in March. Perhaps we can have lunch.

 

[RJman]

Interesting. The custom patina service should be available with their RTW as well, or at least it was in Paris. The demi mesure is, from what I can gather, a special order from their Italian factory. The bespoke was quoted to me last year at 3200 euros or so. Maybe the blonde liked you.

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by RJman

The bespoke was quoted to me last year at 3200 euros or so. Maybe the blonde liked you.
No I think your right.

 

[Matt]

where did you stay Bill?

 

[whnay.]

Corthay After wandering around St. Honore for a bit I finally stumbled upon Rue Volney and bottier Pierre Corthay. The shop is very discreet and extremely small with the display and fitting room taking up no more than a Parisian hotel room. I knock and Stephan answers his breath smells of fresh clover. I again introduce myself in garbled French and he shows me through the bespoke room and into the display. Pierre suddenly appears and introduces himself and takes over in English (thank God). He explains that everytime around this year they try to turnover there entire inventory thus the reason for the 20% off the remaining stock (my lucky day). I notice the Bucy, the Cocteau, and a brown suede two eyelet derby that has much softer lines than the infamous Arca. They end up having my size in the Bucy and Cocteau which for what its worth is true to my US size 8.5. After the fitting its on to picking the patina which I throughly enjoyed with Pierre. He explained the process, some of his favorites and as the pictures indicate I went with what he calls Rosewood on the Cocteau and Used Noir on the Bucy. I couldn't be more pleased with the results. FYI - Some news that will surely taken warmly by our members. Corthay is coming to NYC and San Fransisco via Bergdorf Goodman and Wilkes Bashford. Look for his collection of RTW this Summer.

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by m@T

where did you stay Bill?
Left Bank
The Luxembourg Parc

Right Bank
The West-End Hotel

 

[Maharlika]

Originally Posted by whnay.

Berluti After much internal strife I decided against my better judgment and went into Berluti's St. Germain location. By internal strife I'm referring to Berluti's somewhat marred reputation on these boards as making shoes much too delicate for everyday use. For our Paris members I'd suggest a visit if only to gaze at the hot blonde that works there, just is a stunning example of Parisian beauty. Anyway I digress. I tried the Olga III (990EU), Olga (900EU) and the Andy (900EU). The Club III line is characterized by a much narrower last which to my estimation would not be able to fit only the crow feet among us. Even the Club line was tight and so I asked the fitter what other options were available to me, she mentioned the full bespoke which if memory serves was 2500EU+ and demi-measure which was 1250EU. Demi-measure allows for slight modifications to the last as well as custom patina service, they used the same paper work that they use with bespoke (foot on a piece of paper, etc). As I was only concerned with slight modifications I decided to forgo painting my shoes red and green went with a truffle brown color. They will be ready in early March. I'll post pics when I get them.
Good for you! I visited Paris twice last year and each time, treated myself to a pair. I purchased the 'cyclist' in the Tatoue collection last winter at the St. Germain boutique from a gentleman named Armel and bought the "Andy" in Classic collection last September from a very beautiful woman, Joanne at their flagship store at Rue Marbeuf. Incidentally they offer the second patina free of charge which they recommend doing after six months. I'm going back to Paris in the Spring to have my Andy loafers have a second patina. For the record, the color of my Tatoue ( in Sienna and Black combo ), looked a lot better after the second patina. Thumbs up for Berluti and their Paris staff.

 

[Panzeraxe II]

Great news on Corthay finally coming to NYC!

 

[kitonbrioni]

Thank you for your excellent report on Paris. I'm looking forward to the pictures.

 

[LabelKing]

Originally Posted by Panzeraxe II

Great news on Corthay finally coming to NYC!
I would expect the price to be ridiculous--like Vass.

 

[Artisan Fan]

I would expect the price to be ridiculous

And the sales tax will also be ridiculous.