Alternatives to Paul Stuart suits (ny)

[xct89x]

The process is only as good as the firm or organization behind it. I’ve done about 5 Paul Stuart made to measure suits and have been very happy with both the process and the outcome.

Thanks! Being that PS MTM can be cheaper than their rtw suits, how much worse are they in quality, longevity (eg maintaining their shape, being fully canvassed etc.)

 

[Ben W]

Thanks for all of the responses. A lot of you are saying that the 1,5k “bespoke” suit I got was likely mtm based on the price. I got the suit from Alan David which advertised that they are entirely bespoke and made it seem as though I was dealing with the tailor himself the whole time. All bs?

Really not my place to say since I've never spoken with them or been in their shop but personally I would be incredibly suspicious of a $1.5k bespoke. As dieworkwear mentioned it is hard to imagine how they'd be breaking even let alone making any profit.
If it were me I'd want to know who is doing the cutting and where that is happening, where the sewing is happening, and what elements are hand done vs machine done.

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks! Being that PS MTM can be cheaper than their rtw suits, how much worse are they in quality, longevity (eg maintaining their shape, being fully canvassed etc.)

A suit's quality is almost entirely in the fit and movement. Certain fabrics, such as flannel, can bag over time. But if you're using a good tailor, they will use the best fabrics in that specific class.

You mentioned earlier that you have a larger build, so you may want to think about how MTM works. All MTM is built off a block pattern, which is a pre-existing pattern that's adjusted through a CAD program. The garment's success is dependent on the manufacturing, the fitter/ fitting, and how far you sit from the block pattern.

If the manufacturing is good and the fitter is skilled, you can get a better garment if you're close to the block. MTM allows for a wider range of adjustments than what's possible by altering RTW. But it can't do everything. If you have a larger build, you may find it difficult to get enough length on the front balance, for example. Front balance means the coat's front length. Heavier figures need more front balance to cover their stomach.

At some point, a MTM process can't accommodate for enough front balance without throwing off other things. In those cases, a new pattern has to be drafted. But since you're working off MTM, the margins are slim and the tailor/ shop can't afford to draft you a completely new pattern and do multiple fittings. THis then would be the advantage of bespoke.

If someone has success with a MTM operation, that may not mean anything for you if you don't have a similar build. When trying out a MTM operation, see if they have fitting garments. This will give you a better idea of how far you are from the company's block pattern.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Thanks! Being that PS MTM can be cheaper than their rtw suits, how much worse are they in quality, longevity (eg maintaining their shape, being fully canvassed etc.)

sorry…what?

 

[xct89x]

sorry…what?

It seems like Paul Stuart mtm suits can be had for cheaper than their ready to wear suits, based on comments in this thread. So I was wondering if they have poorer construction or quality.

 

[breakaway01]

My understanding is that the CustomLab suits are made in China. This doesn’t mean necessarily poorer quality but of course the cost structure is different from the RTW suits.

 

[clee1982]

Thanks! Being that PS MTM can be cheaper than their rtw suits, how much worse are they in quality, longevity (eg maintaining their shape, being fully canvassed etc.)

there is Paul Stuart MTM and their CustomLab, CustomLab is made in China that is cheaper than their RTW, PS MTM still Samuelsohn and “can be” cheaper than RTW depends on which fabric you select

 

[clee1982]

EBay buying Paul Stuart is very safe, no one bother to knock off that. Now the problem is you got to know the Paul Stuart models to know what you’re buying and check measurements to make sure it isn’t someone’s crazy butcher alteration job (then I guess not the for Japanese market stuff they’re different)

 

[clee1982]

Do you like Paul Stuart mainline or Phineas Cole by the way, very different cut?

 

[xct89x]

Do you like Paul Stuart mainline or Phineas Cole by the way, very different cut?

Mainline, can’t fit into their unstructured/modern stuff bc of all the weight I put on. I own a few Italian suits from eBay that I like that I think are legit, wondering how to tell for past and potential future purchases, that might be my best bet. I don’t see a lot of Paul Stuart on eBay but plenty of zegna, corneliani etc

 

[xct89x]

there is Paul Stuart MTM and their CustomLab, CustomLab is made in China that is cheaper than their RTW, PS MTM still Samuelsohn and “can be” cheaper than RTW depends on which fabric you select

Ah, I see. Thank you very much for this clarification

 

[clee1982]

So the Paul mode from mainline right (side vent, made in Canada)?

 

[xct89x]

So the Paul mode from mainline right (side vent, made in Canada)?

Yes exactly

 

[clee1982]

I remember seeing quite a few on poshmark and eBay? I mean just check measurement and ask seller for tag?

edit what’s your size?

 

[xct89x]

A suit's quality is almost entirely in the fit and movement. Certain fabrics, such as flannel, can bag over time. But if you're using a good tailor, they will use the best fabrics in that specific class.

You mentioned earlier that you have a larger build, so you may want to think about how MTM works. All MTM is built off a block pattern, which is a pre-existing pattern that's adjusted through a CAD program. The garment's success is dependent on the manufacturing, the fitter/ fitting, and how far you sit from the block pattern.

If the manufacturing is good and the fitter is skilled, you can get a better garment if you're close to the block. MTM allows for a wider range of adjustments than what's possible by altering RTW. But it can't do everything. If you have a larger build, you may find it difficult to get enough length on the front balance, for example. Front balance means the coat's front length. Heavier figures need more front balance to cover their stomach.

At some point, a MTM process can't accommodate for enough front balance without throwing off other things. In those cases, a new pattern has to be drafted. But since you're working off MTM, the margins are slim and the tailor/ shop can't afford to draft you a completely new pattern and do multiple fittings. THis then would be the advantage of bespoke.

If someone has success with a MTM operation, that may not mean anything for you if you don't have a similar build. When trying out a MTM operation, see if they have fitting garments. This will give you a better idea of how far you are from the company's block pattern.

Thanks for this info. I’ve purchased multiple China-manufactured MTM suits (indochino, black lapel, perhaps another I cant think of) and the fit was always great. But the quality was terrible, suits are literally falling apart at the seams 1 year from purchase. It’s just hard for me to imagine that even a more reputable company like Paul Stuart, when relying on a similar China-located manufacturer, would produce garments that are that much better. When I first saw the “lab” at their flagship store, it felt very much like they were trying to save their business from this onslaught of cheap MTM online companies and compete in this space.