All shoe mavens: I'm hooked. My first pairs arrived.

[Sartorian]

I just got my first dress shoes, two pairs of AEs in good shape off of ebay, total cost with shipping $51.

I put them on, and they fit like gloves. The first time I've ever bought nicer dress shoes that fit, and after getting my first MTM shirt, I don't feel much inclined to wear anything else--even my ill-fitting underwear

. Considering my very narrow size, I was very lucky to find anything that fit.

Anyway, I had a couple of questions for any shoe mavens out there.

1. These AEs (a black wingtip pair and a burgundy wingtip pair) each have slightly wrinkly finishes. These are not from wear, but rather part of the original leather. I was wondering what kind of leather this is, and how I can tell. Is there something inside the shoe in the label that will give me a clue as to the shoes provenance?

2. The most wear each of these pairs has is on the soles. A couple of the soles are worn in the forefoot areas so that the stitching has started to meld with the sole. Is this the point at which I should get them re-soled? Also, since the creases in the uppers are fairly light, I'm wondering if having the AE refurbishing package would really sparkle them up.

3. Anything else I should look for on the shoes to determine how they should be spiffed up? I bought some Lexol cleaner and conditioner per someone's request, but is there anything else I should look out for or pay attention to in these initial inspections?

4. Why are some shoes listed with dual letters, i.e. D/M, etc? Does this mean the shoes have different widths in the forefoot and heel areas?

5. Does anyone here have experience using inserts or other things to fill out a wider-sized shoe with narrow feet? Any tips on the best way to do such a thing, and can it be done reasonably, say if one is a B width, and wanting to wear a C or D shoe? How much variation in actual width does a single letter indicate? Is it just hard to do because of the heel, also?

Questions questions.

First a MTM shirt, now some shoes. This board has me raising my standards every day!

 

[DocHolliday]

First of all, congrats. Assuming they're in good shape, you'll definitely get your money's worth.

As far as the questions: When you say "wrinkly" finish, what do you mean? Does the surface seem bumpy? If that's the case, it's probably pebble grain, meaning the pattern has been pressed into it. It would help if you could provide a photo or an example pic.

If the creasing on the uppers is light and the soles lack heavy wear, you shouldn't need to have the shoes resoled. The stitching on the sole is exposed even when the shoes are new, and they naturally come to look like what I think you're seeing. The D and M inside both mean the same thing -- they're of regular (medium) width.

As far as taking care of them, conditioner, shoe polish/cream and some rags are all you really need. And shoe trees, of course. I'd suggest putting the trees in, applying the conditioner fairly heavily and leaving the shoes overnight. The next day, wipe them down with a rag and polish.

 

[Sartorian]

Thanks Doc. Yes, I think you're right--these are pebble grain--not the smooth, shiny finish that I see in my current AE catalog. Obviously, these models are not current.

I'm going to go ahead and get the recrafting surface. I got two pairs, a black and burgundy, and the black pair definitely needs some work--the sole is worn down to the point of having the stitching fray (just a bit), and there is one tiny 'divet' or chip out of the front of the upper--not really noticeable, but I think now's a good as time as any to get their service. Also, I have to get some trees, so I figure I may as well just get the AE 'prestige' recrafting, which sends the shoes back with trees and a bag for $125. That seems like a reasonable deal to me.

 

[southbound35]

To be honest, from the description you've given, it seems a bit premature to go the recrafting route. Presuming AE's recrafting program is similar to Alden's, they will completely replace the lining of the shoe as well as the sole and heel, sewing them on the same last as the shoe was originally constructed. As such, unless the lining is noticeably worn (i.e., holes through to the inside of the shoe), it seems the recrafting process might be overkill for now.

As for resoling, again, it sounds a bit early. Unless there is a noticeable soft spot in the sole, the beginnings of a hole, or separation of the sole from the upper, you're probably fine with a good cleaning and polish.

As mentioned previously, pics of the shoes, including the lining and bottoms, would definitely help the shoe mavens determine if you need new soles, recrafting, or neither.

I suspect you might be able enjoy your bargain for now without adding much addutional cost, other than shoe trees and polish.

 

[j]

Originally Posted by southbound35

To be honest, from the description you've given, it seems a bit premature to go the recrafting route. Presuming AE's recrafting program is similar to Alden's, they will completely replace the lining of the shoe as well as the sole and heel, sewing them on the same last as the shoe was originally constructed. As such, unless the lining is noticeably worn (i.e., holes through to the inside of the shoe), it seems the recrafting process might be overkill for now.

As for resoling, again, it sounds a bit early. Unless there is a noticeable soft spot in the sole, the beginnings of a hole, or separation of the sole from the upper, you're probably fine with a good cleaning and polish.

As mentioned previously, pics of the shoes, including the lining and bottoms, would definitely help the shoe mavens determine if you need new soles, recrafting, or neither.

I suspect you might be able enjoy your bargain for now without adding much addutional cost, other than shoe trees and polish.
+1. Also, you need to wear them a while to make sure they are the right size before you spend a bunch on recrafting them.

What I would do is clean the insides however you want (alcohol, disinfectant spray, etc.), clean the uppers with Lexol or other cleaner or just wipe them off with a damp rag, then use shoe cream of the right color for them, then use wax polish, then wear them.

 

[mensimageconsultant]

5. Does anyone here have experience using inserts or other things to fill out a wider-sized shoe with narrow feet? Any tips on the best way to do such a thing, and can it be done reasonably, say if one is a B width, and wanting to wear a C or D shoe? How much variation in actual width does a single letter indicate? Is it just hard to do because of the heel, also?

If the entire shoe is too wide and cannot comfortably be remedied with thicker socks, don't do it. If only part of the shoe is too wide, take it to a repair place. The cost should be reasonable.