1B SB Notch Lapel?

[Sator]

Originally Posted by Manton

I always thought a "paddock coat" was a high buttoning DB overcoat, with close set buttons like on a DB vest. That's how Apparel Arts uses the term, anyway.

I fear that AA has got it very wrong.

Here is a pattern for a paddock coat:

The paddock coat is a slight variation on the paletot which differs in having side panels:

This is what AA mistakenly calls a paddock coat:

It is a body coat with a body coat type of construction with the waist seam exactly the same as a frock coat. The correct term for this coat is a 'frock overcoat' or a 'top frock':

In any case, "paddock coat" would be ridiculous term for such a formal garment. Maybe there was an editorial error in that edition of AA which is being perpetuated by the internet.

 

[Mr. Pink]

Originally Posted by reubencahn

I agree. Mafoofan's looks great on him. But I'm a much heavier build, 6', 205 lbs., 46" chest, 37" waist. I've a feeling the higher button point would make me look more barrel-chested. Maybe, I'll try to post a picture and get some feedback.

Here's my last suit a 3 roll 2.5. I'm thinking a 1/2" lower buttoning point. Any thoughts?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by reubencahn

Here's my last suit a 3 roll 2.5. I'm thinking a 1/2" lower buttoning point. Any thoughts?

Why? Looks perfect as is.

Chan?

 

[Mr. Pink]

Originally Posted by Manton

Why? Looks perfect as is.

Chan?

Yes, it's a Chan. I guess I'll leave it where it is and stop driving myself crazy.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by reubencahn

Yes, it's a Chan. I guess I've leave it where it is and stop driving myself crazy.
You would be crazy to change anything. The fit looks perfect.

 

[LabelKing]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Yes, I had never seen it used that way until this entry on Will's blog. In the current (March-April) issue of Departures magazine, there is a puff piece on Hisham Oumil, an NY bespoke (?) tailor (?) with some of the most unattractive buttoning points on a coat that I have ever seen. The only photo online from the article is of him:

Among the photos in the hardcopy magazine were ghastly two buttons where the buttons were one or two inches apart. - B
Look at that awful soft wing collared shirt; The trousers also don't go with that turquoise waistcoat and overall look.

 

[Conrad]

Well, back to the original question I agree that a one button, SB notch lapel works great. I have one and it happens to be the suit that I always get the most compliments on.

This next bit is more on the subjective side, but I don't understand 1B suits that don't have at least moderate waist suppression and have a button stance anywhere more than about 1" away from one's natural waist. I've always been one to consider the 1B to be more of a social style that should accentuate the wearer's natural form. The flip side of this being you have to have a form you want to accentuate in order to wear one.

If it didn't form flatter, one would just wear a formless 2B suit with the same button stance and get the same effect without having to worry that one was wearing a 1B suit that some people may consider too rakish.

 

[water]

A bit late to the party, but what are your thoughts on Mr. Boateng's one button coat?

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by reubencahn

Here's my last suit a 3 roll 2.5. I'm thinking a 1/2" lower buttoning point. Any thoughts?

How does the jacket feel on you when you walk around, sit down, reach for things etc...?

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by water

A bit late to the party, but what are your thoughts on Mr. Boateng's one button coat?

I dont know if I would actually wear anything he makes but I do like his thrust. It's often like a purely social set of colors for English City clothes.

 

[RJman]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

I dont know if I would actually wear anything he makes but I do like his thrust. It's often like a purely social set of colors for English City clothes.
Sir:

While I cannot pretend to be of the same elite class or as advanced a sartorial dandy historian essayist, I believe the City of London is what the business district is called, and that saying something is of "the City" denotes, somewhat pejoratively, that it is something that would be worn by braying arriviste bankers, as opposed to the invisible navy shoe-wearing upper classes who do not have work in such trenches for a living. Thus, are you certain that Boateng's clothes are "City" social clothes? I would think they are more showbiz social...

 

[Mr. Pink]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

How does the jacket feel on you when you walk around, sit down, reach for things etc...?

Feels fine, and, in my view, looks good. I was only thinking about the change for stylistic reasons. I saw Patrick Chu yesterday, he agreed the buttoning point should be left where it is.

Unfortunately, I couldn't settle on a fabric. I had wanted a dark grey (maybe just a bit lighter than charcoal) nailhead and didn't find what I had in mind in any of the books though I did see several birdseyes I liked. I looked at the Target book again, the Crispaire, the Lessers 11-12 oz. book and the Lessers 9.5 -10 oz. Super 120 book. I failed to look at the 9 1/2 - 10 oz Lessers plain worsted book. Assuming, I'm looking for something no warmer than the 10-11 oz. Target fabrics which I'm familiar with, was I looking at the wrong book? Would the 9/12 - 10 oz. Lessers be more comparable? How is the Super 120 book? This is the one with 1% cashmere.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by RJman

Sir: While I cannot pretend to be of the same elite class or as advanced a sartorial dandy historian essayist, I believe the City of London is what the business district is called, and that saying something is of "the City" denotes, somewhat pejoratively, that it is something that would be worn by braying arriviste bankers, as opposed to the invisible navy shoe-wearing upper classes who do not have work in such trenches for a living. Thus, are you certain that Boateng's clothes are "City" social clothes? I would think they are more showbiz social...
I want to laugh, but have no context for the blue shoe jokes. Was this over on the other site? I had blue shoes once, but decided they were only fit for a retired NBA player.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by reubencahn

Assuming, I'm looking for something no warmer than the 10-11 oz. Target fabrics which I'm familiar with, was I looking at the wrong book? Would the 9/12 - 10 oz. Lessers be more comparable? How is the Super 120 book? This is the one with 1% cashmere.

You missed out. The new Lesser 9.5-10 is the best new book to come out from anyone in a long time. Almost everything in it is top notch, great colors, patterns, etc. And so, so hard wearing. I would take it over the 120s any day. I don't know what Chan upcharges for Lesser 120s, but I know that the US wholesale price is much higher than the standard book, and tailors here upcharge accordingly.

IMO, regular 9.5/10 is so good there is no reason to go up.

As for wearability, it's fine right up until about 80 degrees (for me). I tend to feel the heart more easily than others, so you might be able to stretch a few more degrees out of it.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I want to laugh, but have no context for the blue shoe jokes. Was this over on the other site?

Just for you.

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