1B SB Notch Lapel?

[Mr. Pink]

Originally Posted by Manton

You missed out. The new Lesser 9.5-10 is the best new book to come out from anyone in a long time. Almost everything in it is top notch, great colors, patterns, etc. And so, so hard wearing. I would take it over the 120s any day. I don't know what Chan upcharges for Lesser 120s, but I know that the US wholesale price is much higher than the standard book, and tailors here upcharge accordingly.

IMO, regular 9.5/10 is so good there is no reason to go up.

As for wearability, it's fine right up until about 80 degrees (for me). I tend to feel the heart more easily than others, so you might be able to stretch a few more degrees out of it.

Wonderful. Well, I guess I'll have them send me pictures or swatches of that book. I need more patience when looking at all these fabrics. Is there anywhere to view Lessers fabrics online?

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by RJman

Sir:

While I cannot pretend to be of the same elite class or as advanced a sartorial dandy historian essayist,

Why my dear RJ, if I didnt know better I would almost suspect a touch of sarcasm in your tone.

Originally Posted by RJman

I believe the City of London is what the business district is called, and that saying something is of "the City" denotes, somewhat pejoratively, that it is something that would be worn by braying arriviste bankers

I actually think a lot of the things they wear are stylish. If I ever use class with regards to clothes it is a sense of taste rather than social or economic class. I think people from all backgrounds can have upper class tastes, which is simply the separation from bad tastes.

Originally Posted by RJman

as opposed to the invisible navy shoe-wearing upper classes who do not have work in such trenches for a living.

You know I have seen this pop up from time to time, and though some English do seem to like a pair of dark blue calf shoes, I have only ever been told by an industry insider about navy shoes as an elevated, insider choice and then asked around if anyone else had heard of it or what they thought of it. I dont recall ever having said it was the case...not that you are suggesting this, of course.

Originally Posted by RJman

Thus, are you certain that Boateng's clothes are "City" social clothes? I would think they are more showbiz social...

No, I am not sure, especially not in their entirety. But you know, a piece here, a piece there.

His designs are some kind of mating of savile row and "designa" sheik. I dont necessarily like any of his outfits completely but i like some of his design iniatives and might borrow and idea or two.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by reubencahn

Feels fine, and, in my view, looks good. I was only thinking about the change for stylistic reasons. I saw Patrick Chu yesterday, he agreed the buttoning point should be left where it is.

Unfortunately, I couldn't settle on a fabric. I had wanted a dark grey (maybe just a bit lighter than charcoal) nailhead and didn't find what I had in mind in any of the books though I did see several birdseyes I liked. I looked at the Target book again, the Crispaire, the Lessers 11-12 oz. book and the Lessers 9.5 -10 oz. Super 120 book. I failed to look at the 9 1/2 - 10 oz Lessers plain worsted book. Assuming, I'm looking for something no warmer than the 10-11 oz. Target fabrics which I'm familiar with, was I looking at the wrong book? Would the 9/12 - 10 oz. Lessers be more comparable? How is the Super 120 book? This is the one with 1% cashmere.


The Lessers 11/11.5 book is very good quality and combines toughness with fine finish. The 120s is a re-released book and I had a suit made from it recently. Ill talk about it in the future when I have convinced my self it's worth recommending to others but so far, it seems like a finer version of the other worsteds this fine cloth merchant offers and feels cool against the skin but I dont think that's a summer book. I am not crazy about Lesser's summer fabrics except for the golden bale ones. I have strugled with them back and forth and decided that the tropical weight golden bale is very good but I dont like the overly matte finish on the Lessers tropical worsted.

I hear good things about Harrison's "Mystique" summer weight cloths.


Apparently, the old Lesser 10 oz plain weave was a lot better than the new 9.5-10oz book which I understand is not quite up to snuff. I haven't tried it but I have been cautioned by people who have worked with it, and love everything else Lesser offers, to pass it by.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

Apparently, the old Lesser 10 oz plain weave was a lot better than the new 9.5-10oz book which I understand is not quite up to snuff. I haven't tried it but I have been cautioned by people who have worked with it, and love everything else Lesser offers, to pass it by.

Rueben, take this with a grain of salt. Every tailor I know who's cut and made this, in NY and London, says its amazing stuff. I certainly have no complaints. I had no complaints about the old 10 ounce book either, but this one seems better, if not the quality, certainly the colors and designs.

I don't like the 11-11.5. A little too "supery" and not enough body. One tailor I know does not like to make it and always steers people away from it.

 

[Mr. Pink]

I've asked Chan to send me swatches of any dark greys in either nailhead or birdseye from the 9.5-10oz. book. My thoughts are the 11-12oz. is a bit too heavy to wear into the summer and I really would like to stay away from the super 120 if possible. So, if I can find color and pattern in the 9.5-10 that I like, I'll go with this.

Thanks to all for sharing their knowledge. I really do appreciate it.