Some people just like to talk to salesmen

So the answer to the question of whether you can order from Rubinacci / LH entirely from NY is yes.

As to the question of whether or not you would want to, here's a partial answer:

This, for me, was the gold standard. I think I actually showed Mariano this photo and asked him to do some of this for me.





I like this iteration of Rubinacci a lot more than the cleaner Lucca version that I've seen a couple photos of but that's entirely preference.

I can't say that I'm one to write rhapsodies about tailors but I'm pretty happy with the results. I think the fit is good - maybe even great (I've only worn it for about 2 hours so far). I like the look/style and the jacket is already very comfortable.

There's some padding / wadding at the sleevehead and tip of my shoulder that's doing some weird stuff. I'll wear it a bit to see how it settles and then show it to the big man when he's in town again.







I feel as though I have betrayed Dopey's patience in writing to me about Dege but with time I've come to see a softer, more nonchalant style as a bit better fit for my personality such as it is and for my station in life.

re: the title. I don't think it's the best value in the world but I'm happy with the result and I just don't know where else a NY-bound person can go for a drapey jacket like this without rolling the dice with A&S or Sabino.

I think I know at least one suggestion Manton will make and I agree though I'm not certain the DJ is taking requests.

Why didn't you get a breast patch?

Very, very nice. A home run.

Three differences stand out to me between your new jacket and left coast Matty's:

1. Mass of the lapels on your chest. Yours occupies more real estate...my preference would be for something a little more scaled back, although I like yours as well.

2. There's more boat to his boat-shaped breast pocket, and this case, I'm more in tune with yours than his.

3. You have gone for less waist suppression than he. I like a nippier waist.

I also like the pitch and shape of your sleeves a little more than mafoofan's first sample from R.



- B

I think yours looks great, and better than that particular jacket of mine. There are some things in mine that have been since fixed, and it is not nearly as good as what they have made me since, but I still do like it.

Nice! I can't see the issue with the shoulder you're talking about, though. It's interesting that all our jackets (yours, mine, the other Matt's, and Mariano's) are so different. Your lapels look more like mine, but otherwise your cut most reminds me of Mariano's. I don't think I have nearly as much drape between the shoulder and chest in the front than any of you, but that could be because of the cloth.

I'll have to disagree with Manton on the breast pocket. I like the welted one better. To me, a patch pocket would have added too much visual weight to one side of your chest.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Click to expand...

Your lapels look more like mine, but otherwise your cut most reminds me of Mariano's.

That's exactly it...thank you for pointing that out. It looked familiar somehow, but not from iamatt's photos. Yes, I quite agree with you that C's jacket is very similar to those that Mr. Rubinacci wears.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Click to expand...

I'll have to disagree with Manton on the breast pocket. I like the welted one better. To me, a patch pocket would have added too much visual weight to one side of your chest.

If Manton meant that, and I'm not sure that he did, I would agree with it. The fabric of this jacket is quite casual, and I think a perfect medium through which the patch pocket arts could be practiced.

- B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Click to expand...

That's exactly it...thank you for pointing that out. It looked familiar somehow, but not from iamatt's photos. Yes, I quite agree with you that C's jacket is very similar to those that Mr. Rubinacci wears.

For better or worse, the higher gorge, wider lapel seems to be far more in vogue these days. Perhaps I'll regret my choice in the future, but Mariano doesn't seem to have an issue with it if it suits the wearer. I think it looks fantastic on Cantabrigian--he seems to have less waist supression than either me or Matt, so the lapels are helpful in creating a stronger 'V'.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Click to expand...

If Manton meant that, and I'm not sure that he did, I would agree with it. The fabric of this jacket is quite casual, and I think a perfect medium through which the patch pocket arts could be practiced.

I should have disclaimed that I'm prejudiced against patch breast pockets in general. I just don't like them--no matter the cloth. More asymmetry than I can swallow .

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Click to expand...

I should have disclaimed that I'm prejudiced against patch breast pockets in general. I just don't like them--no matter the cloth. More asymmetry than I can swallow

.

It's a reasonable category of prejudice, and there is nothing wrong with a normal welt pocket.

- B

Originally Posted by Cantabrigian

Click to expand...

. . .

I feel as though I have betrayed Dopey's patience in writing to me about Dege but with time I've come to see a softer, more nonchalant style as a bit better fit for my personality such as it is and for my station in life. . . .

I have no idea what you are worried about. This looks great and great on you.
I am moving in the opposite direction myself, but it is pretty hard not to be impressed with how great this turned out.

Very nice! I especially like the drape in that last picture with the camera. I also like the slightly larger-than-life proportions of all the details --- the lapels, the pockets, etc. --- and how they harmoniously echo the windowpane's scale. The extroversion wears well on you.

It's good to hear that you can get a drapey coat through MR visiting NYC. I might be rethinking my monogamous tailoring relationship especially for sportcoats.

--Andre

Gorgeous.

Love it. Love the big lapels, love the welted chest pocket, love the shoulders and chest. Would only opt for a bolder fabric.

Welcome back!!!!

Originally Posted by RJman

Click to expand...

Welcome back!!!!

I have mixed feelings about that. My wallet just got emptied a bit because of it.

- B

FYI, Sabino's "house" or default style is not a drape cut. He makes a clean, fairly snug chest. When shown a live example of a Rubinacci suit jacket, he looked at the drap and the shoulder treatment with some degree of dissatisfaction. I recognize there are rivalries among tailors, but it shows how different Sabino's look really is.