Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[davidlee388]



to keep digging in the archives - here's a small treat for us who don't have the old catalogues/lookbooks:
eddy kohli
(A/W 83-84?)

max vadukul
(A/W 84-85 + S/S 85)

paolo roversi
(A/W 85-86)

nick knight 01
(A/W 86-87)

nick night 03
(A/W 87-88 + S/S 88)

nick knight 02
(S/S 88 + A/W 88-89 + S/S 90)
http://vimeo.com/44649502
david sims
(A/W 95-96 + S/S 96)
http://vimeo.com/44650880
koto bolofo
(?)
http://vimeo.com/44648973

Fantastic!!

 

[impolyt_one]

I forgot about this but the YY flagship store in Aoyama has a exhibition of Yohji's paintings this month, so there's still a few days left to go see it...

 

[repp_fink]

Ivwri : To add to your list of fabric codes --

Code 353 identifies 97% linen / 3% polyester (here it's the medium-blue pinstripe from ... SS09? I don't see it in the lookbook, but the code matches up)
Code 400 identifies 57% cotton / 43% silk (the slubby black stuff he was using in ... SS10? I can't even find that lookbook. Must get life in order.)

 

[cupper]

Excellent thread!
I've been following it closely and now I'm waiting for my first Yohji piece to arrive, curious to see if it'll fit me.
It's a YYPH Ramie/Rayon jacket with the older Yohji signature on the label.
The code is HW-J12-310-1A and it's not on asobu's list. Does anyone have any idea from what collection it might be?

 

[sshum]

Shah - I like both but agree about the thicker sole on the Ann D giving it some more character.

Asobu - thanks for the posts on the past seasons and the breakdown by year on the codes. Very informative and a great reference.

 

[Ivwri]



Excellent thread!
I've been following it closely and now I'm waiting for my first Yohji piece to arrive, curious to see if it'll fit me.
It's a YYPH Ramie/Rayon jacket with the older Yohji signature on the label.
The code is HW-J12-310-1A and it's not on asobu's list. Does anyone have any idea from what collection it might be?

Hm, no idea what season that could be from actually.

Could you get me the percentages on the blends when you get it please? Would like to add it to the fabric code list

Thanks for the submission Repp.

 

[Ivwri]

Fit pic for today.

Wearing SS06 linen/cotton jacket (product code HR - J65 - 810, striped parts are 100% linen, black parts are 100% cotton with a shiny maroon 100% cupro lining) with SS00 high waisted wool gabardine pants (HB - P27 - 100). Suspenders are leather ones by Unused and shoes are Ann Demeulemeester derbies.

Spoiler: More views

I really like this jacket but I don't wear it often enough. The sleeves have no buttons which makes for easy rolling up and this is the way I generally tend to wear it. The lapel can be buttoned up to the neck so I guess it is a three button jacket? Changes the look completely when that is done but it is too warm here most of the time to warrant blocking air circulation on my neck . Picked it up from asobu. The pants I got off wire and they are glorious. Such a nice construction for the crotch area giving it a great drop crotch effect when seen from behind that manages to avoid the diaper syndrome a lot of drop crotch pants tend to have. I generally feel Yohji does the best drop crotches in the business, you get the awesome silhouette and proportion play while keeping full freedom of movement.

 

[hendrix]

I really like that, especially in the pic where you have the middle button buttoned. Really nice silhouette and the pockets are a nice touch

 

[davidlee388]

Fit pic for today.
Wearing SS06 linen/cotton jacket (product code HR - J65 - 810, striped parts are 100% linen, black parts are 100% cotton with a shiny maroon 100% cupro lining) with SS00 high waisted wool gabardine pants. Suspenders are leather ones by Unused and shoes are Ann Demeulemeester derbies.




I really like this jacket but I don't wear it often enough. The sleeves have no buttons which makes for easy rolling up and this is the way I generally tend to wear it. The lapel can be buttoned up to the neck so I guess it is a three button jacket? Changes the look completely when that is done but it is too warm here most of the time to warrant blocking air circulation on my neck

. Picked it up from asobu. The pants I got off wire and they are glorious. Such a nice construction for the crotch area giving it a great drop crotch effect when seen from behind that manages to avoid the diaper syndrome a lot of drop crotch pants tend to have. I generally feel Yohji does the best drop crotches in the business, you get the awesome silhouette and proportion play while keeping full freedom of movement.

Applause with envy Great fit and great piece! I am as you can tell a big big fan of yesteryears' Yohji.

 

[Ivwri]

Thanks david. I really like a lot of the boxier jackets, in particular the double breasted ones from his older collections. I am always keeping an eye out for those on auction sites.

 

[cupper]



Could you get me the percentages on the blends when you get it please? Would like to add it to the fabric code list

Ivwri it's a 50% blend.

 

[Ivwri]

Thanks cupper, will update the OP. I think I might have to put the list somewhere else. Once people really start contributing it could make the OP and the first page of the thread a bit unwieldy. Will probably make a text file somewhere and host it on Dropbox that way as it gets updated anyone who is interested can always have an up-to-date file at their finger tips.

 

[cowerd]

Ivwri: tremendous jacket. love the distinct front/back.

And again, thanks to Asobu, Ivwri, Dante, davidlee and others for sharing their knowledge of Yohji.
You have made it so much easier for people like me who have almost no in-person access to the clothing to appreciate and purchase.

 

[esox]

hi,

i am new to this forum and i like it very much.
some cool pics and good infos!

i buy yohji and miyake aprox the last 18 years and they are my favorite designers.
i still wear all the old stuff. the following ys jacket is quit about 12 years old. or even older.
thinking of selling it because of to much gym. now its a bit tight.

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/3869/u8t0914.jpg

jacket and trouser is ys red label. fabrik is pure silk. shirt ist ys 52% cotton 48% viscose shoes y3

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/9480/u8t0931.jpg

trouser yyph ss12 strange blue/purple color 90% cotton trouser 10% nylon, yyph ss12 shirt 100% cotton with cool pattern shoes y3

detail pic of the shirt

http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/4863/u8t0941.jpg

can i embed pics from imageshack in this forum? its my first try and it seems it dont work so i post direct links instead.

 

[asobu]

Ivwri, that looks great, both the jacket and those pants are indeed stand-out pieces.

cupper, so the jacket has the old style tag (pre-91) but there is still an item code? This confuses the hell out of me, hehe. Adding to that, I've never come across HW before. I wonder... there is at least one non-season code afaik (HA) that I've ever only seen on undershirts/turtlenecks, I wonder what HW would be... I have a few Y's pieces with MW code but Y's codes are different, only the runway lines are comparable with YYPH. I have it on good authority that the codes started in 92 but perhaps that's wrong..?


esox, welcome to the forum and this thread. I hope you stick around, those fits looks great, and I'm sure you have many interesting pieces from all your years of wearing Yohji! Perhaps you can shed a light on the tag code confusion? Anyway, glad to have you here.!