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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    i've watched this interview more than 20 times. love the ss 04 video. i'm hoping to work on one of those tables next year. we shall see.


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    also one of the jacket worn by v.westwood it's up for sale:


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    Last edited: Jul 20, 2012
    4 people like this.
  2. asobu

    asobu Well-Known Member

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    Amazing, amazing jacket. Last summer the navy mao collar version (same jacquard fabric) with white hand stitching details was up for sale, full suit. Incredible. Wrong size for me but I still remember it
     
  3. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    i'm sure after this post i'll be known as the person with the worst photos. i should stop buying yohji and get proper camera? nah. anyway, with my little knowledge i can agree with asobu about pre-06 y's garments. all of mine y's (not y's for men) are on the same level as yyph. for example this aw04 y's long coat - light weight felt - 103 code, has the same pockets as my ss06 long coat and funky trimming details, the trousers are y's aw03 - very heavy wool - 112 code, full of amazing details - back metal clinch, tweed patch over the pocket, the buttons etc. from now on i will have my eyes wide open for pre-06 y's.

    herbert johnson's hand made hat, aw04 y's long coat, yyph knitted t-shirt, aw03 y's high-waisted trousers, hand painted vans.
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    that it's the label btw.

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    Last edited: Jul 20, 2012
    5 people like this.
  4. JunyaYamamoto

    JunyaYamamoto Well-Known Member

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    wow that latest video was spellbinding. the way he speaks in a deliberate manner had me in a trance. it's unfortunate but true, his statement about men's clothing being more 1-dimensional compared to designing for women. in most of the animal kingdom, the male species is flashier and more flamboyant, but with us it's different. nevertheless, yohji still manages to push the boundaries of men's fashion and for that i respect him.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2012
  5. valter

    valter Well-Known Member

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    A few photos of Yohji working with the S/S2011 collection:


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    3 people like this.
  6. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Top Five Piece - this is actually one of a few Joint Fourth, it's a hard decision sometimes

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    YYPH SS11 Black " Yohji Uniform " ( HO-J76-053 ) 100% cotton, thin shirt like fabric, body half lined in fabric, sleeves in cupro. 5B closure, 2 small metal hooks to fasten collar, 4 front flap pockets, top 2 buttoned. Buttonless sleeves. long back vent. Military/Japanese Schoolboy/Bruce Lee (?) inspired, size 3 very fitted short sihouette, the Yohji hunour being 2 metal " grenade hooks " no less on each side.

    YYPH SS10 black cotton pants with cuffed hems ( HJ-P12-008 ), Coming Soon black cotton SS Tee, CDG H+ belt, Timberland Creepers.

    This " Yohji Uniform " has quite a history. Being similar in height to Yohji-San, and an avid fan [​IMG] I've always wanted to track down what he wears ( his a wool gab iteration I think, sometimes navy ) at the end of the Runway shows and see what it will look in person, the nostalgic me... The opportunity arose when this piece ( BNWT ) appeared in Y! last July and I duly snapped it up even as a size 3 ( thought it may be too big ). Shock horror it turned out to be very snug in the chest and armholes ( 99% sure it's a Japanese exclusive ) and it wouldn't fit comfortably. Yohji-San must be quite a bit trimmer. Devastated, it was put away in storage until a month ago ( realizing dieting to wear something aint the way ) it's taken to a tailor to see if armhole enlargement was possible. I was told it was constructed with very small seam tolerance ( sign of a masterpiece ) hence not a chance.... final attempt to make it fit before selling it regrettably was to remove the small shoulder pads. And....result, unbelievably it made a remarkable difference so now it's transformed from unwearable to a top five piece, at a cost of .....£6 exactly. A keeper forever [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2012
    4 people like this.
  7. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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    Looks like even without the shoulder pads there its still tension on the armhole seam. But as long as you feel okey in it and can move your arms up and down without lifting the whole jacket.

    Btw I never looked at Yohji himself as inspiration, what he wears etc. Not very keen on "yohji's" uniform in general. But again that's my personal point of view.
     
  8. cupper

    cupper Well-Known Member

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    Yeah that interview is great! Kiko that would be awesome and a dream come true for you I imagine. Best of luck! :fonz: I'm seeing you working there and getting all these questions from us (at least from me lol): - Hey Kiko could you please ask Yohji -san from which year is the HW code? :lol: In the meantime here are some more photos from behind the curtain (again from V&A, sorry if it has been posted already. There are still some pages I haven't read.)
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    Research trip - Tokyo: Yohji Yamamoto HQ " Back in bustling Tokyo it is time for me to visit Yohji Yamamoto HQ in the business (but not financial) district Shinagawa. Amongst shiny, glass and metal-clad highrisers housing companies like Japan Airlines, Phillips and Nike, Yohji Yamamoto’s home looks rather incongruous – a fairly low and very black concrete block. On entering, it becomes clear why: the studio of the design teams (he has separate ones for each of the brands he designs) is a large, calm, jam-packed room secluded from the outside world. Adjacent are rooms full of rolls of his custom-made fabric piled up to ceiling, a pattern cutting room, a sewing room and of course, Yohji’s office. When I am led in to conduct an hour-long interview for the book, I notice three guitars lying around various spots in the room. I remember: ‘of course, Yohji used to be in a band and tour around Japan’ After an intense 90 minutes of talking to Yohji Yamamoto, one of the things he said keeps coming back to me: Very often I feel I’ve done almost everything. Then, the next question to myself is: ‘Why are you continuing the same thing?’ A very childish answer comes back: ‘Because I love clothing.’ And each time I’m working for the next collection, next season, during fitting, during cutting, each time I find some invention. That is the moment when I feel happy, this is the only moment I feel happy’ "
     
    2 people like this.
  9. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    You are right kiko, it's 9/10 on the comfort scale buttoned now, no problem worn open. I do like the style of the blazer, just thought being YYPH it will have the inherent oversizeness as given. Guess thats always the risk buying untried but never thought I'll need a sz 4! The uniform thing just a bit of nostalgia lol. Hence this is not #1 piece.
     
  10. cupper

    cupper Well-Known Member

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    David great jacket! Another one I think you haven't posted, I guess you can open that rent-a-yohji :rotflmao:

    I was outbid for a somewhat similar (without the grenade hooks and different collar) red y's for men jacket in grey. :fu:

    Also I see you are going for a 5,4,3,2... posts for ultimate suspense lol.
     
  11. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Cupper. Just thought if this is good enough for Yohji-San, it's good enough for us mere mortals :) What I haven't mentioned was the superb construction, it's tailored like a proper blazer, with 2 inside pockets on one side and a buttoned flap inside pocket on the other. Therefore there are quite a few layers near the chest, plus the small armholes, for this wearer's chunky top half :( That's why I'm so fond of yesteryear's Yohji ( stuck in a time warp ), a size 3 that is small on me just never enters the equation for older stuff......

    Just thought that's the way I'm gonna do it, the best in reverse order. However what one regards as an absolute gem could be someone's trash ( hope not ). It's all in spreading the Yohji vibe :happy:
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2012
  12. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Well-Known Member

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  13. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Very nice Look 5 from AW05 ( one of my favorite collections, if not the most favorite, love the cut, constructions, fabrics, the lot ) Have you won it?

    Edit:- the auction was gone last night when I checked, now it's back on....shame it is a 3 ( dcbank's usual size in its inventory ) or it'll be mine...even at 50k ( it's NEW ). Someone should take the plunge.....
    Dcbank has the matching pants as well...get the whole suit, rare opportunity
    http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f117760867
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    Last edited: Jul 22, 2012
  14. horse's_ass

    horse's_ass Well-Known Member

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    I'm a bit late on this, but thank you very much! Helpful to my search.
     
  15. Magic1

    Magic1 Well-Known Member

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    I'm looking for black yohji pants, size 48 or equivalent. Basically looking for a pant that tapers at the knee to a small leg opening (like7.5" or less). A drop crotch or wideleg pant with narrow Jen is ideal. Anyone got a pair to sell? I bought a pair on farfetch only for them to cancel my purchase as it had sold out....
     
  16. valter

    valter Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jul 23, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  17. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, that is correct. Especially it has shots on the back of models which are important for all things YY. Previously it was subscription only for most seasons, now it seems it's all free from about a month ago. However some seasons are not listed and bizarrely YYPH SS07 is listed as Y's Yohji Yamamoto.

    The 2nd best source is dantebykiko of course [​IMG]
     
  18. Magic1

    Magic1 Well-Known Member

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    Any experience with yohjis "fine jersey" cotton jackets? Or ramie jackets? Do they hold up well or look cheap quickly. I don't know the last time I wore jersey...
     
  19. davidlee388

    davidlee388 Well-Known Member

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    Well maybe the experts can chime in, but are you referring the fine jersey cotton to the 010 cotton of SS12? If it is then the fabric is delicate but at the same time great to handle and wear, perfect summer fabric. Any clothes will become trashy if not looked after properly, but a few small tears and holes here and there add to the charm as some will say.

    I have a AW09 Y's ramie blend blazer, it has a matt looking, dry hand finish. I certainly won't call it cheap looking rather than vintage looking as Yohji clothes are intended.
     
  20. esox

    esox Well-Known Member

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    i dont have any jackets but ss12 jersey trousers and they are fine until now. i wore them about 10 times. i have 1 ramie shirt. its about 6 years old and i wore it a lot.
    still look new. i have no doubt that a jacket wont look good. but if you buy online be careful because all the jersey jackets of ss12 i tried on were pretty slim fited. so unfortunately they did not fit me.
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2012

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