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rydenfan

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1035 color 8 from .com last year.
2045 MTO back in the days if you scroll back the images in this thread.
310 scotch grain shell few years back.


And do you have first hand knowledge that the same people that lasted those are still the ones doing it today? My point is that people tend to make a lot of assumptions in this thread to fit their preferences. None (or very few) has first hand knowledge of the manufacturing challenges or decisions inside the facility.
 

LA Guy

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I don't have a problem with companies imposing their house style on customers, though I'd prefer there to be a dialogue. Sure a product has to reflect well on its manufacturer, but they're not the ones having to live with the choices on a day-to-day basis.

Take the Cordovan service boots that are coming up for auction soon. Let's say I won them and wanted them on a full ripple sole, because they make all footwear 100% more awesome, then it wouldn't be entirely unreasonable for Brett to say no on the grounds of aesthetics. However if I wanted to go with (say) the 1035 or 2040 last to improve fit, then I think that would be a different matter. They might not look quite so elegant, but with size 14 feet that's always going to be a tough proposition, but they'd possibly look better and feel more comfortable.
They actually do have to live with those choices on a day-to-day basis, especially in now that information exchange is nearly instant. For example, if you make an exception in China, people in the US will hear about it a day later, and possibly complaint bitterly. And the last is a huge part of the aesthetics of a piece of footwear. I mean, even your wish for something on the 1035 instead of the 2030 last is primarily aesthetic. Here. we have page upon pages of which last will look better on which boot.

Like I've tried to emphasize before, this dialogue has always occurred, though in the past, it was always between retailer and vendor, and opaque to the end customer. This new world of customization and direct customer input from mor than a very rarified group of customers is something that is relatively new, and there is no standard way to deal with it yet.
 

Capsicum

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And do you have first hand knowledge that the same people that lasted those are still the ones doing it today? My point is that people tend to make a lot of assumptions in this thread to fit their preferences. None (or very few) has first hand knowledge of the manufacturing challenges or decisions inside the facility.
Yeah, you got your point. And I don't know the current situation inside the factory as well. Just answer your post literally, no other intension.
 

jlchau

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Horsehide Derby from Notre today
400
 

gambit402

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No, this is exactly the type of response I wanted/needed to read. This also accurately describes my thought process over the last 12 hours! I really like the unique coffee makeup from Notre and love the pictures on IG, but after settling down and thinking about it I'm not sure it's different enough for me to justify having both. I haven't made up my mind completely, but that's the thought process and your post is very helpful. Thanks!


The Chromepak will get darker too, so not sure if the natty cxl will ever get as dark as the Chromepak.
 

Akeem

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And do you have first hand knowledge that the same people that lasted those are still the ones doing it today? My point is that people tend to make a lot of assumptions in this thread to fit their preferences. None (or very few) has first hand knowledge of the manufacturing challenges or decisions inside the facility.


I really doubt is a manufacturing issue in the sense that someone who is able to last a 2030 boot cannot last a 2040 boot. It's more likely that they are streamlining their design choices and reducing the need to change up their machines for different patterns.
 

spenno

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There is no difference betwern the leather thickness of slim & fat waxed flesh boots. It was the name given to the boots to differentiate between two makeups.


To expound....the 2 different boots were on different lasts: 110 vs 2030.

leather thickness in the uppers is definitely on the thicker side so expect some good old fashioned break in time with your beefy leather boots.

Natty CXL can vary from pretty light to almost brown and any shade in between. chromepak undergoes a different tanning process and is more oily to the touch and seems to be more consistent in color. the cool thing about my olive chromepak is that they appear to change color in the sun. for a classic brown boot, i don't think you can go wrong with either, but a really light colored natty CXL will need some good wear to get your preferred shade of brown.

Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

Knowing how the fat vs. slim was used on the GMTO, is this the same meaning Viberg.com uses when describing “Brown ***** Calf” for instance? Or in that usage is Viberg describing the last choice of the makeup as well?

In the spectrum of brown’s from lightest to darkest, would it go something like this: Natty CXL, Coffee Chromepack, Icy Mocha CXL? Trying to figure out which choice makes the most sense for a “go-to brown boot” choice.

Slim waxed was on a the slimmer 2030 last, fat was on the fatter 110 last. Very different fits, in my experience -- I don't fit the 2030 very well.

Thickness of the leather used varies greatly I believe, though I've only seen 3 pairs live -- others can address. I've read somewhere on this site that the thicker leather survives the stitch down manufacturing process better, so Viberg prefers the Goodyear welt process for thinner leathers.

That Cabourn boot is not waxed flesh. It is some sort of distressed leather, perhaps distressed aged bark? I say distress your own damn boots by wearing them. It reminds me of the fad I read about in Japan where you could pay someone to splash mud on your SUV.

Completely agreed on just wearing your own boots, that’s where the fun is anyway.

It's aged bard that was pre-distressed with oils, and the eyelets were corroded in acid.

I see, thanks for pointing out the details on that makeup.

Would I be correct in assuming it (that 2012 Nigel Cabourn service boot) must have been an aged-bark roughout then?

While perusing Viberg.com, I’m still trying to understand what the major differences are between rough outs and reverse kudu (is one or the other a suede?)

Thanks for all the wisdom, much appreciated everyone!
 

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