Tuxedo (NYC) - 30 days, up to $3,000, and a plea for help.

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by The_Foxx

[NO SATIN LAPELS PLEASE! IF YOU'RE BUYING, GET RIBBED SILK!)

huh?

 

[skefferz]

Don't forget a white pocket square from Kent Wang.
https://www.kentwang.com/pocket-squares?color=60.
.

 

[ginger84]

Originally Posted by Concordia

Crockett& Jones have some fairly decent, cheap shoes for the task. Pumps are more stylish, although oxfords will be safer in more circumstances. Try to get plain toed oxfords-- the cap-toed models are somewhat of an oxymoron. Brooks Brothers might also kit you out in that department.
Any idea where I can get those C&Js, and for how much? The tuxedo C&Js I'm thinking of used to be around $500 on plal.

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

Thurston formal braces $75
Paul Stuart black laceups: $375 or velvet slippers $200ish
Silk formal socks $80
I hadn't even thought about socks. Paul Stuart a good place for them? Formal braces - I simply want black, correct?

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

get in soon and i will make the shirt in time
do you have a decent set of studs?
Carl, I'll plan to see you this weekend. I don't have a decent set of studs

Originally Posted by The_Foxx

I'd also recommend trying the Polo brand tux, as another poster suggested-- I've tried them on, not a bad cut and has ribbed silk lapels which are hard to find at this price-point-- you'd just have to ensure you keep the lower pockets' flaps tucked in (why did they make the dinner jacket with flap pockets???)

http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/i...entPage=family
There's a lot of love for that Polo tux in this thread. How does the cut compare to an RLBL suit?

Originally Posted by JohnnyCrockett

Paul Stuart is indeed the place that fits the bill. They have slimmer-cut stuff than BB at better quality and with excellent tailors. They'll make anything you get there fit you very well. They have also rush-tailored full suits for me in the past (i.e., 18 hours).

A Paul Stuart mainline tux should be offered in peak or shawl lapel, single button, for around $1000 or $1100 after tax. Add a shirt from PS or BB or somewhere else for $80-150, the tie and cummerbund from either of those places for ~$100, and you're at $1300-1400. Next you need studs. I think the best place to get great-looking studs fast is the Men's Wearhouse on Madison (I'm not joking). Just get simple black (faux) onyx studs for something like $25. Pair with a pair of simple sterling or even knot cufflinks (which you probably already own).

Highly-polished black captoe oxfords are just fine, even though not technically correct. You should be able to find patent leather plain-toe oxfords at BB for under $400. As to opera pump, I would suggest only going for opera pumps if they're in black calf rather than black patent. These are very difficult to find. PS used to have them (made by Grenson) for $500 or $600.

Final point - Brooks Brother will have tuxes both above and below the PS quality and price point. Their Golden Fleece tuxes are probably slightly better in quality (but it will all come down to fit). Similarly, their 1818 tuxes will be lower price and quality.

One more point - satin lapel facings (+ cummerbund and tie) are, of course, fine. Even better is grosgrain, which could be harder to find. PS may offer it on their "Stuart's Choice" line tux (made by Isaia??) which will be closer to $2500 or $3K. BB may also have it on their Golden Fleece tuxes. Remember that if your lapels are grosgrain, your tie and cummerbund must be also.

AND PLEASE AVOID NOTCH LAPELS!!!
Is there a specific Paul Stuart tux that people have in mind? I'll stop in this weekend, but I'm curious as to whether there's a model of choice.
Faux onyx for $25 sounds good to me.

Originally Posted by JPHardy

Shop the Finest
Call Ian
Borelli Tuxedo ($1500)


Shirt - you like Cego, he is willing to make in time...can't get better than that.

If you can't get to Cego, Shop the finest... Borelli shirt
How's the cut on the Borelli?


P.S. - It appears you guys have ruled out the rental option.

 

[Shirtmaven]

go see Michael at the missing link
40 West 25th st lower level 212 645-6928

a full range of prices and styles

I like studs, but if you watched the Oscars, most of the men were wearing fly fronts.

 

[ssnyc]

If off the rack + minor tailoring fits well, forget bespoke. Use the extra cash to buy better shoes/accessories.

As mentioned, timing may be tight with bespoke as well.

I like Zegna.

 

[AlanC]

Pantherella makes nice silk formal hose. I like the ones with the white dots. Get something patterned rather than solid/plain black. Vintage studs are easy enough to find. If you're having a shirt made then have it designed to take three studs rather than four. This is what you should be looking for: http://cgi.ebay.com/Art-Deco-KREMENT...item4a9f3bf10f http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Set-Of-4...ht_2079wt_1165 http://cgi.ebay.com/1920s-Estate-KUM...ht_3495wt_1165 http://cgi.ebay.com/SET-OF-VINTAGE-C...ht_1368wt_1165 http://cgi.ebay.com/GREAT-1920S-GOLD...ht_6663wt_1165 http://cgi.ebay.com/Antique-Stud-But...#ht_3673wt_939 http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Cufflink...ht_1490wt_1165 http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-1900s-Vinta...#ht_500wt_1182 And if you like Scotties: http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Pair-Gla...#ht_500wt_1182 You can buy something interesting and classic for MW prices with just slight effort.

 

[lefty]

Originally Posted by ginger84

Is there a specific Paul Stuart tux that people have in mind? I'll stop in this weekend, but I'm curious as to whether there's a model of choice.

If you're slim the DB blue Phineas Cole is quite nice.

http://www.paulstuart.com/product_in...SUBPRODCATID=0

lefty

 

[ginger84]

Originally Posted by lefty

If you're slim the DB blue Phineas Cole is quite nice.

http://www.paulstuart.com/product_in...SUBPRODCATID=0

lefty

I note that on the PS website that tuxedo is called "Navy". Is that different from acceptable midnight blue?

Where does SF fall on waist coverings? Still required with a single breasted? Or post-Casino Royale, have you acquiesced?

 

[mr. magoo]

1. Rental tuxes tend to be cheap, hardy and thick to last a long time. In other words, very unpleasant to wear.

2. Polished cap toes are perfectly appropriate, as long as there's no broguing.

 

[imageWIS]

Originally Posted by JPHardy

If you can't get to Cego, Shop the finest... Borelli shirt

+1

Whilst a bespoke shirt from Carl (CEGO) will be your best bet, if that route isn't possible, Shop the Finest has A LOT of Borelli tuxedo shirts available.

 

[Mark from Plano]

Originally Posted by AlanC

Vintage studs are easy enough to find. If you're having a shirt made then have it designed to take three studs rather than four.

Absolutely do this. Vintage studs are the bomb, but you can't wear them with most modern shirts because of the fact that almost all modern RTW shirts take four studs (some five

) and vintage shirts were made to take three.

 

[Wes Bourne]

 

[amplifiedheat]

Groupthink aside, I like satin better than grosgrain. Dull ribbed silk is just that, dull.

At this price point, custom would seem strongly indicated.

 

[TheTukker]

Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger

If you call Ercole's in Brooklyn, you can get one bespoke and ask if he can have it ready quickly...he prob can. He is also in Manhattan once a week so you can do fittings there. For 3k I'd go that route.

If you go bespoke, may consider Mr Ned as well.

 

[ginger84]

Originally Posted by Mark from Plano

Absolutely do this. Vintage studs are the bomb, but you can't wear them with most modern shirts because of the fact that almost all modern RTW shirts take four studs (some five

) and vintage shirts were made to take three.

Am I correctly interpreting these suggestions regarding studs as inherently anti-fly front?

Originally Posted by Lonneker

If you go bespoke, may consider Mr Ned as well.

I've heard good things, but given the 30 day time pressure, it doesn't seem feasible.

Originally Posted by mr. magoo

1. Rental tuxes tend to be cheap, hardy and thick to last a long time. In other words, very unpleasant to wear.

2. Polished cap toes are perfectly appropriate, as long as there's no broguing.

Seems to be some disagreement on the need for patent...