The OCBD collar roll thread

[Botolph]

I have a rather good result with mine...
Otherwise i like very much Gant Rugger repros (without logo) that they do from time to time, but they are hard to find.
And I heard only good things by @Botolph about Ratio Clothing shirts...

Yeah @Clouseau, Ratio has a “Fitzgerald” collar option, a three-finger one. Also, Michael Spencer does great custom shirts. They’re both cheaper than Gitman Vintage and have the plus of personalized sizing.

 

[Van Veen]

I like the MiUSA Brooks Brothers oxfords. I buy a bunch every year when they run a 40% off sale. (I don't really like to spend more than that on shirts.) Collar roll gets better as they break in, too.

I've never seen someone complaining about them being "too slim." I have shirts in the same size, and BB Regent fit is similar to Gant Rugger "EZ" fit. That is (or used to be) Gant Rugger's relaxed fit, but BB has two more relaxed fits (Madison and Traditional) on top of Regent. The Gant Rugger "The Hugger" fit is slimmer than Brooks.

I would assume that Gitman Vintage and Spier & Mackay would also be on the slimmer side. If you want fuller cuts, have you considered Mercer & Sons?

I've also never had a problem with BB customer service. YMMV, I guess.

 

[yanagi]

I have in the past, their collar did not roll much. I recall it being quite flat. If I opt with GV I rather go with Portuguese Flannel. Thanks! @Clouseau

I bought an unlined OCBD from O'Connell's, which I believe is made by Gitman Brothers. I wasn't happy with the collar roll either, but then I moved the buttons and it significantly improved the roll.

That said, if you're buying a new shirt, I recommend Michael Spencer.

Spoiler

 

[EFV]

Some different mtm shirts of mine:

Blugiallo

Vanacore Napoli

100 Hands

Shirtonomy

 

[Clouseau]

I like the MiUSA Brooks Brothers oxfords. I buy a bunch every year when they run a 40% off sale. (I don't really like to spend more than that on shirts.) Collar roll gets better as they break in, too.

I've never seen someone complaining about them being "too slim." I have shirts in the same size, and BB Regent fit is similar to Gant Rugger "EZ" fit. That is (or used to be) Gant Rugger's relaxed fit, but BB has two more relaxed fits (Madison and Traditional) on top of Regent. The Gant Rugger "The Hugger" fit is slimmer than Brooks.

I would assume that Gitman Vintage and Spier & Mackay would also be on the slimmer side. If you want fuller cuts, have you considered Mercer & Sons?

I've also never had a problem with BB customer service. YMMV, I guess.

Actually this Gant Rugger "The Hugger", in "fluffy" oxford, is my favorite OCBD. Although it is in a very soft fabric, it has a very nice roll (better seen when worn).

 

[varsityreds0123]

I’ve just placed an order for one of these Yeossal selvedge chambray shirts. The roll looks quite nice, and I opted for a one-piece collar for a change.

 

[RickyTakhar]

Drakes OCBD

 

[flashjack]

I'm in the market for a few new OCBDs, has anyone put Kamakura's sport shirts through their paces? Their new york slim fit works well for me, sadly they don't have the same colours available as they do in their Tokyo fit yet.

 

[usctrojans31]

Erik - cloth details on the jacket with the 100 Hands shirt? Fox? I love it and want it.

 

[Joe J.]

Some different mtm shirts of mine:

Blugiallo
View attachment 1136841

Vanacore Napoli
View attachment 1136843

100 Hands
View attachment 1136844

Shirtonomy
View attachment 1136845

Hi Erik, since I saw your post I’ve been looking for the Blugiallo shirt you posted. I only see online websites that aren’t in English. Any direction you could give me would be appreciated.
Thank you.

 

[TokyoiteGentleman]

I'm currently in the market for some new OCBDs replacing my old Uniqlos.

Looking to upgrade, specifically, I'm looking at Kamakura Shirts MTMs.

How should OCBD MTMs fit? I have a good fit for dress shirts from Kamakura. Should I just use that?

 

[EFV]

Erik - cloth details on the jacket with the 100 Hands shirt? Fox? I love it and want it.

Fox flannel, Dalcuore.

Hi Erik, since I saw your post I’ve been looking for the Blugiallo shirt you posted. I only see online websites that aren’t in English. Any direction you could give me would be appreciated.
Thank you.

TBH, I don’t know if they do business outside Sweden.

 

[usctrojans31]

Fox flannel, Dalcuore.

AH HA! Thanks. I saw this on Instagram (with a bit different lighting) and asked Cristina to bring it to NYC her next time here. At least I'm consistent in liking the cloth....

 

[Steve Smith]

Brooks Brothers everything seems too slim and screw their customer service.

Brooks Brothers has four fits: Milano, Regent, Madison, and Traditional. I doubt that you would find Traditional too slim.

 

[SJR3]

Brooks Brothers has four fits: Milano, Regent, Madison, and Traditional. I doubt that you would find Traditional too slim.

Seriously, this. Even BB Madison is a very generous cut. @gettoasty doesn't know what he's talking about.

I want to try out Spier & McKay but unsure of sizing...good price though so maybe worth trying a few rounds to get the fit right, return shipping notwithstanding.

Spier & Mackay makes some nice OCBD's in terms of fabrics/collars and a good price point, but their fits actually are all too slim. For reference:

S&M's most generous shirt cut is their "contemporary." My size in contemporary, 16.5, has a 46.5 chest measurement; that's pretty darn slim. For comparison, Lands' End tailored fit dress shirts in size 16.5 have a 49.5" chest. That's their tailored fit, and it's a full 3 inches larger in the chest than S&M's most relaxed fit. Brooks Bros' "Regent" or "trim fit" as they now call it (their second slimmest out of 4 fits) size 16.5 has a chest measurement of 50.5".

I wish S&M would make an "athletic" fit OCBD, or something, with more room in the chest and shoulders.