On Jacket Length

[heldentenor]

Looks great, Anden. Agreed about the vents being a bit shorter than ideal, but it wouldn't bother me.

What's really impressive is how your tailor created elegant quarters after a substantial amount of shortening and, I imagine, a bit of waist suppression. When I've had a jacket shortened, the quarters have been the part that I'm never happy with.

 

[TweedyProf]

I'm not 100% convinced. There's something not quite right about the altered jacket. I think it's that while the pockets have been moved successfully (being unable to do this is usually the main reason for not buying a jacket that is too long and trying having it shortened), the vents now look a little too short. I might be imagining things but it also looks like it's slightling longer in the front on the left than on the right - something, perhaps about Anden's shoulders or stance.

Overally, the tailor has done as good a job as is possible and it will look fine in use, but I would still still say, as a general rule, do not get a jacket shortened.

That suit looks great after the alterations.

Honestly, the original jacket length looks like it covered a lot more than just your ass. Could you possibly have an average torso and short arms? @Orgetorix has the same issue, it seems to me, although he has found a solution and always seems to look good.

Interesting observation. Perhaps you are right about the original jackett. I've always found the "cover the ass" rule hard to assess because where is the border? So, I go by the fork of the trouser. If you hit that point, then you've definitely covered the ass.

Again, it's hard to assess based on pictures (angles etc.), but I thought based on that rule, the original length seemed actually about right. But it looks long (e.g. goes past his thumbs). Let's say I'm right about the "fork" rule to ascertaining adequate back coverage: Anden's case demonstrates how many different factors feed into determining appropriate jacket length.

 

[Anden]

I do agree that the best idea is to buy a suit of the right length to start with. I wanted to try my tailor and see what he could do and the results are great given the circumstances. The vents might be on the shorter side. The sides are the same length when I checked after your post so it's probably something with my stance. The fabric is really thin and that affects the drape.

Will wear it at a family gathering this weekend and maybe I'll post some real life photos of the suit.

 

[Caustic Man]

FWIW, short stubby vents were actually a thing in the 50s and 60s. Shorter than the ones on your jacket, even. I used to have a vintage sport coat from the late 50s and the vents on it must have been around 4 inches.

 

[Betelgeuse]

Never saw this thread but jacket length is something that causes me nightmares hehe. Everytime I try a jacket it is the first thing I put attention and then, everything else. I'm 6'1" but I have a short torso (I think). As in the first post says, I try now to see it everyhting looks balanced.

There was one time that I measured to where my rear ended, my girlfriend helped with that. And we got from BOC 30.5", so I tried everything above 30.5". That puts me in between sizes, cause for example SuitSupply 44R measures 30.7" and the 44L is 31.9" but I do think for a suit, the longer the better and strangely, the 44R looks terrible in the shoulders and chest and the 44L doesn't.

But for jackets, I usually go with 46R. The BOC is 31.1" so it's above the measurement I got, it covers my rear (I think) and has that casual look.

I leave some examples. Comments are always welcome in order to improve.

Spoiler

SuitSupply 46R

From the back

SuitSupply 44R

SuitSupply 44L

Spier & Mackay 44L (BOC 31.7")

Isaia

Ermenegildo Zegna

 

[zewill]

Great thread! I'm confused by what people mean with 'fork of the trousers'
Any one care to explain or show a picture? Is it where the bum ends and legs statrt? Or the fork is the lowst point of the crotch?
Thanks!

 

[San780]

Please do forgive me but I would like some help regarding the length of one of my jackets.

I recently came across a lovely unlined wool Crauso sport coat (double vents) and picked it up. The problem is that the new Caruso sportcoats are getting pretty short which is the case here. It’s a bit hard to explain but the jacket looks great from front but is a short by an inch at the back where it’s supposed to cover my butt. I showed it to a tailor and he recommended just lengthening the back of the jacket (the double vent are where the back is supposed to cover my butt) without touching the front.

There is enough material inside and is not an expensive alteration given the jacket is unlined. However, I’m wondering if it’s a good idea. Would it throw off the balance of the jacket? Or would it look weird with the vents an inch longer than the front part of the body?

I do understand I’m over-thinking this, but any guidance in this regard would be highly appreciated.

Thabk you once again!

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I'm not sure how one could lengthen only the back and not have to lengthen the entirety of the hem. Unless, of course, the jacket was previously altered so that the back portion of the hem was shortened.

Perhaps showing us a pic would help. I'm sure one of the tailors here can chime in with a more appropriate answer, as the above is my opinion and that of a layman.

 

[San780]

I'm not sure how one could lengthen only the back and not have to lengthen the entirety of the hem. Unless, of course, the jacket was previously altered so that the back portion of the hem was shortened.

Perhaps showing us a pic would help. I'm sure one of the tailors here can chime in with a more appropriate answer, as the above is my opinion and that of a layman.

Thank you so much for your kind message, Sir.

The jacket wasn’t altered before actually. So basically it’s an unaltered jacket (with back length matching the front length) and I was wondering if I could just lengthen the part of the double-vented back by an inch. The alteration expert is nudging me in that direction... However I have reservations about this as the back would be longer by an inch.

I would try to post some pics but I don’t think that would help.

Any help in this regard would be highly appreciated!

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Thank you so much for your kind message, Sir.

The jacket wasn’t altered before actually. So basically it’s an unaltered jacket (with back length matching the front length) and I was wondering if I could just lengthen the part of the double-vented back by an inch. The alteration expert is nudging me in that direction... However I have reservations about this as the back would be longer by an inch.

I would try to post some pics but I don’t think that would help.

Any help in this regard would be highly appreciated!

I'm trying to visualize such a thing and it just seems like it wouldn’t turn out right. I don’t see how the vent flap could be lengthened by an inch and the rest of the hem remain untouched without it looking odd.

 

[San780]

I'm trying to visualize such a thing and it just seems like it wouldn’t turn out right. I don’t see how the vent flap could be lengthened by an inch and the rest of the hem remain untouched without it looking odd.

Fair point! And that’s exactly what I was thinking. Sometimes it’s hard to be objective when an alteration expert tries to convince one that the proposed alteration would look great...

 

[dieworkwear]

One thing to keep in mind is that the hem of a jacket should either be even from front to back, or the front should be slightly lower than the back. If the jacket has a hem that already even, lowering the back without lowering the front will throw off the balance.

 

[San780]

One thing to keep in mind is that the hem of a jacket should either be even from front to back, or the front should be slightly lower than the back. If the jacket has a hem that already even, lowering the back without lowering the front will throw off the balance.

Thank you so much for your insight.

And yes indeed, the hem of both front and back are even at the moment. My tailor wanted to lower the hem of just the back... And this will throw off the balance indeed.

One quick question please. You mentioned that the front hem could be a little lower than back hem. Care to elaborate on it please? Just wondering why front hem being lower than back hem won’t throw off the balance of the jacket? For a layman like me, both should be even. Or am I mistaken?

Thank you once again!

 

[dieworkwear]

Thank you so much for your insight.

And yes indeed, the hem of both front and back are even at the moment. My tailor wanted to lower the hem of just the back... And this will throw off the balance indeed.

One quick question please. You mentioned that the front hem could be a little lower than back hem. Care to elaborate on it please? Just wondering why front hem being lower than back hem won’t throw off the balance of the jacket? For a layman like me, both should be even. Or am I mistaken?

Thank you once again!

It's partly a matter of style. Some tailors like to cut coats with a slightly longer front balance, such that the front of the jacket hangs a little lower than the back when you view the jacket from the side. Other tailors like the back to be even with the front. But when the back is longer than the front, things start to look off. It can also look like the coat is riding up on you at the front, maybe suggesting that you have a bit of a gut.

In ready-to-wear, you'll often find that the front balance is longer than the back to account for a gut. If you have a bit of a paunch, then the coat needs a bit more cloth to cover your stomach. This "lifts" the front balance, so that if you have a lower front balance to begin with, it ends up being even on a paunchy stomach.

Mark at The Armoury explains this concept at the end of this video.

 

[San780]

It's partly a matter of style. Some tailors like to cut coats with a slightly longer front balance, such that the front of the jacket hangs a little lower than the back when you view the jacket from the side. Other tailors like the back to be even with the front. But when the back is longer than the front, things start to look off. It can also look like the coat is riding up on you at the front, maybe suggesting that you have a bit of a gut.

In ready-to-wear, you'll often find that the front balance is longer than the back to account for a gut. If you have a bit of a paunch, then the coat needs a bit more cloth to cover your stomach. This "lifts" the front balance, so that if you have a lower front balance to begin with, it ends up being even on a paunchy stomach.

Mark at The Armoury explains this concept at the end of this video.

And this is precisely the reason why I end up on Styleforum. Excellent detailed reply which answers all of my questions regarding the hem length of the front as well as back.

Once again, thank you so much for helping me out. Since this is a sport coat, I guess I’d just learn to live with the slighter shorter jacket. I think I can live with the jacket being 0.75 inche short...