1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

On Jacket Length

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by TweedyProf, Apr 16, 2016.

  1. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    One last thought on Gus's interjection:

    I was once asked in an interview to define "style". Not worth even trying, so I changed the question. What is it to be stylish in CM?

    One should think of style as practice (an activity). There are principles of classic menswear that define a space of possibilities. Practically, one's style is finding a place within that wide space (one can also flout the principles too, and exit that space, though beware, danger lurks). Being stylish, in one's own way, is moving in that space in your own way.

    In that respect, the fork advice is the anchor point against which variation in jacket length should revolve.

    Crompton's two pics give some indication of this, although one is SB and the other a DB, but the point is illustrated well there, consistent with Gus's earlier advice and Advice 4 above. Longer in the wedding fit; shorter in the linen jacket.

    Ok, now back to what I get paid for...
     
  2. bry2000

    bry2000 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,008
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2004
    My C&M suit looks very similar to the one posted above. That is the house cut (at least Joe Morgan's). My suit fits and is a perfectly fine suit, but it is longer than I prefer and the shoulder is stronger than I prefer.
     
  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,222
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    @TweedyProf, this is a good addition to the discourse on jacket length. I'd add on a personal level that as a shorter guy (5ft7), I prefer jackets on the shorter end of the range and that this is a common (albeit not universal) preference among shorter guys. I end up having this preference for both suits and odd jackets. This gets to the unstated preference issue. If you prefer something on the shorter or longer end, I think you have a lesser margin of error in that direction and more in the other. If your preferences are middle of the road, you can probably get away with something that is around 0.75 inches shorter or longer (range of 1.5 inches or so). People who prefer a longer jacket are going to think a jacket on the shorter end of the range is too short and vice versa.

    I very much share your views that it's very difficult to assess whether a jacket is too short based on a photo or two. Depending on camera angle / range, I've seen the exact same jacket look as much as two inches shorter or longer, more than enough to skew people's perceptions (plus if your sleeve gets caught or you are standing in an awkward position). I've also experienced the strange phenomenon of having people compliment one jacket of mine for being a perfect length while telling me another jacket (with identical length) is too short.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. vida

    vida Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    451
    Joined:
    May 6, 2010
    Location:
    right here, right now
    

    Without a doubt, you consistently provide some of the best advice on this forum.
     
  5. Anden

    Anden Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,508
    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2011
    So,

    I have a long torso and normal arms and thus the cover your back will look too long on me from the front. I decided however to give it a go when I found a great Raffaele Caruso Sartoria Parma suit in 50L. I normally wear 48-50 R in Raffaele Caruso but since the price was good I thought it a good opportunity to try a longer jacket than I usually wear.

    After some serious thought and discussions with Tweedy I decided to have the jacket shortened since it looked too long and also felt too long.

    I have a great tailor and albeit not cheap I like the results... The first thing was to see if the pockets could be removed and repositioned. Since they could my tailor shortened the sleeves, nipped the waist, hemmed the trousers and most importantly shortened the jacket. I decided to open the quarters and have them slightly more rounded.

    Fresh out of the box. It covers the rear but is almost past my fingers.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    And after the tailor had a go. It still covers my rear in an acceptable way and it looks a lot better from the front. The pockets were shortened one cm and ends just above the lower button which is slightly higher than before but not higher than several of my other patch pocket jackets. All and all the jacket was shortened about 4 cm.

    This light and airy suit in Loro Piana Zealander will be worn a lot.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    @Anden

    Thanks for posting! The two sets of pictures nicely illustrate when something can feel just too long and when something is just right. Your tailor did a lovely job with the length and resetting the pockets. And, it looks like a lovely fabric for summer.

    Please use it in a fit and post some pictures in the 10/5 thread!

    @emptym
    @Murlsquirl
    @LA Guy

    Can we change the title of this thread to something that people searching for jacket length will find? Maybe something simple like "On Jacket Length". I think with Anden's post, the thread will actually be helpful to people, as this question is so often asked.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,324
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    That suit looks great after the alterations.

    Honestly, the original jacket length looks like it covered a lot more than just your ass. Could you possibly have an average torso and short arms? @Orgetorix has the same issue, it seems to me, although he has found a solution and always seems to look good.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,959
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
  9. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,575
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2011
    Location:
    Ontario
    I'm not 100% convinced. There's something not quite right about the altered jacket. I think it's that while the pockets have been moved successfully (being unable to do this is usually the main reason for not buying a jacket that is too long and having it shortened), the vents now look a little too short. I might be imagining things but it also looks like it's slightly longer in the front on the left than on the right - something, perhaps about Anden's shoulders or stance.

    Overally, the tailor has done as good a job as is possible and it will look fine in use, but I would still still say, as a general rule, do not get a jacket shortened.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2016
    2 people like this.
  10. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,324
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    I didn't notice that before but you're right, it does look off.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. heldentenor

    heldentenor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,381
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2013
    Location:
    The Frozen Tundra
    Looks great, Anden. Agreed about the vents being a bit shorter than ideal, but it wouldn't bother me.

    What's really impressive is how your tailor created elegant quarters after a substantial amount of shortening and, I imagine, a bit of waist suppression. When I've had a jacket shortened, the quarters have been the part that I'm never happy with.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,106
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Interesting observation. Perhaps you are right about the original jackett. I've always found the "cover the ass" rule hard to assess because where is the border? So, I go by the fork of the trouser. If you hit that point, then you've definitely covered the ass.

    Again, it's hard to assess based on pictures (angles etc.), but I thought based on that rule, the original length seemed actually about right. But it looks long (e.g. goes past his thumbs). Let's say I'm right about the "fork" rule to ascertaining adequate back coverage: Anden's case demonstrates how many different factors feed into determining appropriate jacket length.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  13. Anden

    Anden Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,508
    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2011
    I do agree that the best idea is to buy a suit of the right length to start with. I wanted to try my tailor and see what he could do and the results are great given the circumstances. The vents might be on the shorter side. The sides are the same length when I checked after your post so it's probably something with my stance. The fabric is really thin and that affects the drape.

    Will wear it at a family gathering this weekend and maybe I'll post some real life photos of the suit.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,324
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    FWIW, short stubby vents were actually a thing in the 50s and 60s. Shorter than the ones on your jacket, even. I used to have a vintage sport coat from the late 50s and the vents on it must have been around 4 inches.
     
    2 people like this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by