Nigel Cabourn

[HarrisTweed]

I cannot help but disagree with the claims made by Common People. I have it on good authority that Kestin Hare was never head of design at Nigel Cabourn, as we all know Nigel Cabourn has always been head of design. Common People is riding the coat tails of heritage as a result of not having any. The name of the brand says it all

 

[Eric Gill Sans]

To be fair Nigel isn't complaining. Only a couple of fans on this thread are pointing it out. That being said companies like H&M or Penfield don't care a bit about heritage or authenticity they're just copying the popular designs of the day.

Really interesting reading and I'm coming into this discussion quite late having just joined the forum but agree with lots being said about the copying of the Cameraman jacket. And I was angry when I saw the H&M blatant ripoff copy for a number of reasons.

Firstly The Cameraman is Nigel Cabourn's most iconic item of clothing in the Authentic range - it is from what I know a completely original design not a recreation of an old garment like his Cold Weather Parka or the Antarctic/Everest Parka.

There was some spurious schpeel on a shop web site that said that the 'Cameraman Jacket was a painstaking recreation of a jacket worn by Wilfred Noyce who was the cameraman for the 1953 expedition to ascend Everest' or words to that effect.

This I think is complete rubbish on a number of grounds: - Wilfred Noyce wasn't 'The Cameraman' he was probably Britain's most talented climber at the time and was in charge of stores and boot repairs and i think the first to get to the South Col in the expedition.

Also if you check the history of the Jacket there is a film on youtube which interviews Nigel during the exhibition he did in Newcastle in 2003 where he shows a horizontal glass display cabinet as part of his exhibition showing how he got the inspiration for his design - it shows an army type smock folded back on itself so just the upper half part is showing and this is laid onto the bottom half of a field coat with pockets on the outside giving the overall look of what we know today as his 'Cameraman jacket'.

It was common for explorers and cameramen to have pockets on the outside of a heavy garment so that delicate items such as lenses etc weren't damaged against the body hence the name.

The jacket was attributed to Wilfred Noyce in the Accent of Cabourn collection in honour of a remarkably talented climber and member of the team and certainly a man who might have worn a coat of this type.

So this is the first reason why the H&M copy makes me angry - it blatantly rips off the whole authenticity of design and heritage of inspiration

Second Reason

The Cameraman jacket is a high value, very limited production, high quality garment entirely made in England with fabrics entirely made in Britain. It was designed by a British designer who contributes enormously to British design and manufacturing. It uses authentic British fabrics and processes like
Macintosh and Tweed (Irish linen and beeswax cotton for SS versions) with all its history and keeps these small quality production techniques alive and relevant. It is inspired by one of England's greatest climbers Wilfred Noyce - need i go on

So H&M come along and think they can RIP ALL THIS OFF and make a copycat garment made in China and sell it for £50!!!!!!!!!

Its only a hunch but I think Nigel Cabourn is too old and wise to get remotely annoyed - maybe I'm the only one who is really angry, although I sensed Nigel's right hand man, Drew, was pretty annoyed from a tweet some days ago already mentioned on the forum.

 

[ManofKent]



I cannot help but disagree with the claims made by Common People.  I have it on good authority that Kestin Hare was never head of design at Nigel Cabourn, as we all know Nigel Cabourn has always been head of design.  Common People is riding the coat tails of heritage as a result of not having any.  The name of the brand says it all

You weren't by any chance turned down for a job with them?

I can't see why he would make an easily disprovable claim about his previous employment. Whilst Nigel does most of the design work, I'm fairly sure he doesn't do it all himself. Newly formed companies don't generally have much heritage - I don't think they're trying to pretend to be a long established company. I think you'll find the brand name preceeded their venture into clothing when they just made shoes - I suspect it is a reference to the Pulp song.

No Common People doesn't produce clothing of the quality of construction or design that Nigel Cabourn does, and I suspect their target market has less disposable income. I don't see that appreciating both whilst recognizing that they're different is a problem.

 

[WDD_Blog]

There is info to be found if you Google a little...

http://www.selectism.com/2012/07/11/selectims-qa-ketisn-common-people/

Maybe titles just mean different things to different people? To me "head designer" is a step up from "right hand man".

 

[ManofKent]



There is info to be found if you Google a little...

http://www.selectism.com/2012/07/11/selectims-qa-ketisn-common-people/

Maybe titles just mean different things to different people? To me "head designer" is a step up from "right hand man".

The article doesn't give his job title, he could have been both

I'm not sure his actual job description is that relevant - Cabourn has always been a small team, so anyone working there would be working closely with Nigel and learning a lot.

 

[WDD_Blog]

He does certainly seem respectful and gives Nigel credit for teaching him all he knows...

Just comes out a little wrong on his website, in my opinion.

 

[HarrisTweed]

I would never venture a career with Common People

I agree, learning from someone is the best way to grow, especially as a designer, but he is clearly copying what Nigel Cabourn is doing

 

[HarrisTweed]

.

 

[HarrisTweed]

You weren't by any chance turned down for a job with them?

I can't see why he would make an easily disprovable claim about his previous employment. Whilst Nigel does most of the design work, I'm fairly sure he doesn't do it all himself. Newly formed companies don't generally have much heritage - I don't think they're trying to pretend to be a long established company. I think you'll find the brand name preceeded their venture into clothing when they just made shoes - I suspect it is a reference to the Pulp song.

No Common People doesn't produce clothing of the quality of construction or design that Nigel Cabourn does, and I suspect their target market has less disposable income. I don't see that appreciating both whilst recognizing that they're different is a problem.

Amusing.... no, most certainly not

Head of design is head of design... working closely with someone is a Design Assistant

 

[BLAUGRANA]

http://www.present-london.com/nigel-cabourn/

SS13

 

[ManofKent]



He does certainly seem respectful and gives Nigel credit for teaching him all he knows...

Just comes out a little wrong on his website, in my opinion.

I didn't read it as boastful, but yes he's using Nigel's name to help start the business. As you say he comes across in interviews as respectful of Nigel and from what I can gather they're friends.

Anyway, before I move away from Common People and back to Cabourn, a Norfolk Jacket arrived in the post today and I'm glad I went XL - it's just large enough over a shirt, but no room for layering - for comparison in a Cabourn 52 Cameraman or Double breasted coat I can easily wear a thick sweater.

 

[ManofKent]



http://www.present-london.com/nigel-cabourn/

SS13

Thanks for the link. Nothing that really stands out for me as a must buy, but the Cricket jackets are nice, and I like the shirt jackets.

 

[gululv]

nixda: I think I will try to find a 50, seems like it's a better size for me. But good luck with the sale.

 

[nixda]

nixda: I think I will try to find a 50, seems like it's a better size for me. But good luck with the sale.

cool. thanks!

 

[Mr. Moo]

Two really inexpensive Nigel vests on LNCC's final sale...