Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

[Newcomer]



Newcomer, I absolutely love those Dovers. I've been torn on my next shoe purchase, but have narrowed it down to EG Dover or Ashby. Are those burnt pine?

It is Edwardian. I just liked the term Edwardian. The Dovers are subline, especially on the 606.

 

[Murlsquirl]

Thanks. I'm back and forth between 606 and 202.

 

[Newcomer]



Thanks. I'm back and forth between 606 and 202.

For the Dover, the answer is 606. I am pretty sure that is the "intended" last for the shoe.

 

[in stitches]



Regardless, beyond 60, you are blindly accumulating. If you have the means, and some patience, I just do not see why you would not go bespoke.
Although I do support some Saint Crispy's.

I meant that I cant imagine having 20 even as a max. I have about 12, and the last few shoe kops I made were accompanied by a sale of something from the arsenal.

Thanks. I'm back and forth between 606 and 202.

888 is the last I want.

 

[Murlsquirl]



For the Dover, the answer is 606. I am pretty sure that is the "intended" last for the shoe.

That's what I'm leaning towards, although they look good on the 202 too.

I meant that I cant imagine having 20 even as a max. I have about 12, and the last few shoe kops I made were accompanied by a sale of something from the arsenal.
888 is the last I want.

Your on that chiseled last kool-aid.....one of the few preferences we don't have in common

 

[jfrater]



In the same vein as what Monkey and Murl said above, part of the beauty of shoes is wearing them. Although I may be in the minority, I think the most enjoyable aspect of shoe ownership is breaking them in, and wearing them. Having a rotation of 60 pairs of shoes really, really betrays what in my opinion is the whole point of buying shoes of high quality.

Looking at your shoe wardrobe the other day, honestly, I thought you had a whole lot of bases covered. I did not really think you "needed" anymore. But then again, I have about 20 pairs of shoes, and I haven't bought a pair of dress shoes in around 4 years.

Only through wear do shoes develop a patina. And only through wearing shoes do you really understand what you like. For example, I haven't worn my AE strands in the better part of a year. I also rarely turn to my shell loafers. And 99% of the time, I prefer wearing suede. In the abstract, it is very easy to apply "rules" and "advice" to your wardrobe. But it is a lot more difficult to understand what you like.

I echo the advice of others. Go bespoke at this point. However, again, determine whether you have the patience to wait 6 months+ without kopping.

As an example, these are about 5 years old, and more beautiful than the day they were purchased.

I am definitely looking into bespoke. I have already started that process with suits so I won't be buying any more RTW brionis - as much as I love them!

 

[Newcomer]



I meant that I cant imagine having 20 even as a max. I have about 12, and the last few shoe kops I made were accompanied by a sale of something from the arsenal.
888 is the last I want.

Oh, okay, that makes sense! And yeah, really, out of my rotation, I think I really only wear about 10 of them frequently.

That's what I'm leaning towards, although they look good on the 202 too.
Your on that chiseled last look-aid.....one of the few preferences we don't have in common

And I agree, I think that you can't go wrong with the Dover on the 202 or the 606. I just think with the design of the shoe, the more angular 606 plays better with the split toe. The 606 and 202 are severely underrated.

As for the 888, eh, not my favorite personally. I prefer the 890 I think. Then again, I am more of an F laster than a U laster. And if I am going chiseled, I think I prefer G&Gs lasts. Not to say that the 888 is not special. I just prefer a lot of EGs other lasts.

 

[Newcomer]



I am definitely looking into bespoke. I have already started that process with suits so I won't be buying any more RTW brionis - as much as I love them!

I must have missed it--who are you pursuing bespoke with? Also, where are you based, if you don't mind me asking?

 

[jfrater]



I must have missed it--who are you pursuing bespoke with? Also, where are you based, if you don't mind me asking?

I am in NZ. I am going to a bespoke tailor in Auckland next week to get some trousers and a first jacket made - plus I am going through the alterations process with Kent Wang right now on their test suit so I can get future stuff made by them too. Later in the year I hope to get something at Liverano while I am on holiday.

 

[Sotiris]



I meant that I cant imagine having 20 even as a max. I have about 12, and the last few shoe kops I made were accompanied by a sale of something from the arsenal.
888 is the last I want.

Of course you do. You and your odd chiseled toe fetish (I was hoping the F last Vass Norwegers broke you out of that mindset).

I currently have 7 oxfords and 6 blutchers along with 6 chukkas and 6 boots. As well as **Not for Murl**

Spoiler

3 loafers

I can see myself getting rid of 2 of my current oxfords. But I also have an additional 4 chukkas on my wishlist (only 1 would be an upgrade/replacement) as well as about 4 blutchers and maybe 1-2 oxfords.

So that still keeps me under 20 if you count shoes and boots separately.

 

[Newcomer]



I am in NZ. I am going to a bespoke tailor in Auckland next week to get some trousers and a first jacket made - plus I am going through the alterations process with Kent Wang right now on their test suit so I can get future stuff made by them too. Later in the year I hope to get something at Liverano while I am on holiday.

Have you heard of the tailor before? I would like to stress, that bespoke is not necessarily good bespoke.

I think your Liverano idea is great. And have you ever given thought to using P Johnson? They get fairly excellent reviews, and are a bit closer than Liverano. I apologize if I am coming across as a bit of a hard-ass. I guess I am just trying to rationalize the whole process.

 

[Murlsquirl]

I'll pretend I didn't see that, Sotiris. You're still an alright guy in my book.

I hate to admit this, but loafers are starting to slightly appeal to me. Yuck.

 

[in stitches]

I do my best to wear all of shoes at least once every other week, or every 3rd. There are inevitably some that get more wear than others, either my wet weather shoes, or a few pairs that I just like a lot.

Regarding the comments about lasts, I would not do the 888 on the Dover I dont think. In general, despite your guyses senseless dislike of more chiseled lasts, they are my favorite for a jacket and tie attire. I try to have my jacket and tie fits on the slimmer/closer/shapelier side, without being uncomfortable or fashion forward, as such, I feel the more chiseled lasts just look better there. Its also just a shape that appeals to me more. I like how it looks. My faves being the MH71, TG73, U, Simpson and 888. I love the Deco but I dont think I have the right build for it. Its a bridge too far even for me. If I liked a more drapey, off the body, fit of my clothes, I would probably veer more towards rounder lasts.

However, with my more casual fits, I prefer a less sleek last, and I usually pair my F lasts, Marlows, or rounder AS boots with that stuff.

So really, for me, its more about, as usual, coherency. I like the last to make sense with what Im wearing. Now, obviously there are rounder lasts that would work just fine with the jacket and tie fits I sport, but it looks better to me, with a sleeker shoe, plus I like the sleeker shoe, so I go that route.

So really for real really, its a mix of coherency and being a chiseled last ho-bag.

 

[New Shoes1]

http://www.thearmourystore.com/us/a...-oxford-rubber-sole-captoe-brogue-suede-brown

Here you go. Pretty sure Stitch used to have these.

I'm wearing these today. Love them.

 

[Sotiris]

@in stitches What wingtips were you wearing with the new Panta DB suit you posted last week? Those I really dug and they seemed less pointy than some of your other GG.