Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

[jaywhyy]

SF's groupthink against black shoes is unfortunate.

 

[Isolation]

Huge generalisation but: Black shoes look sharp, brown shoes look sophisticated. I think brown shoes do have more character as a generalisation, and SF seems to prefer that aesthetic more I guess.

Anyway you guys think -I- have an obsession with waist suppression, I'd just been to SuitSupply on Vigo street and got hard sold by this SA who tried to sell me on wearing a 32 when I'm a 37 (38 shoulders fit me well).

Here's the gray 32 he told me was perfect if I just let sleeves out, then the blue 38r which clearly fits my shoulder better.

Fwiw there's no way susu 32 is actually a 32... How's it even possible I fit in them?

Bonus feature is the SA trying to show me his jacket as an example if a perfect fit and it's waaaaay too small and the lapel has ridiculous bowing even when standing still. Meanwhile he talks condescendingly to me about fabrics and does his hard sell "if this had this jacket in my size I'd buy it straight up, it is magnificent!" Then goes on to praise it's structured shoulder when moments ago he was praising the superiority if soft shoulders on Havana jackets. All the while he just assumes I know nothing about tailored clothing. >.>

 

[in stitches]



Okay - I really want a pair of St Crispin's - I haven't any. Given my collection above, what single most beautiful pair of St Crispin's would you recommend for the man that has everything? Note: for wear with suits or jackets - or both if you can't decide (two pairs in other words - an oxford and a derby).

Go for a dark chocolate suede captoe with brouging and a toe medallion. Will be a beautiful and perfectly versatile shoe.

Ok I kopped. Only now will I reveal that I took advantage of a 75% discount. Last one on the rack, sale finishes tomorrow. Got lucky and no regrets.
Watch WAYWRN for summer gun club fitz, whoopee!

Good kop.

 

[Claghorn]

Iso, their jackets (the 38) appear to fit you better than a lot of stuff you have made for you. And it wouldn't stop you from getting the GQ look, I think.

Out of curiosity, what do you think about how the SS models dress?

And yeah, I don't think they have the greatest SA's

 

[Murlsquirl]



Go for a dark chocolate suede captoe with brouging and a toe medallion. Will be a beautiful and perfectly versatile shoe.

Stitchy is reading my mind again. Not in my size, but my first pair of StC will be something like this:

http://www.leatherfoot.com/store/stc-105-jan-076-classic/dp/3403

 

[in stitches]



Stitchy is reading my mind again. Not in my size, but my first pair of StC will be something like this:
http://www.leatherfoot.com/store/stc-105-jan-076-classic/dp/3403

Beautiful, but I wish those were cap toe. A little too much going there for me.

 

[The Noodles]

@Isolation
Buy that blue Suit Supply suit for GQ's sake! Stop dressing like a boy!

 

[Murlsquirl]



Beautiful, but I wish those were cap toe. A little too much going there for me.

Agree. I'd prefer short wing or cap toe. I'm not crazy about the lines on those, especially the points around throat/lace area. Such an awesome shade of brown suede though and the edge stain pops.

 

[Isolation]

I don't think it fits better at all it's just farther away and it's harder to see. Even then you can see the lapels bowing out. The armholes are also really off when I move, one thing I like about my jackets is that they look decent in motion, even if I move my arms up and stuff. I rarely find similar on OTR stuff. Buttoning point also a bit low too. To prove it I might go take a better picture next time for comparison

Okay say, what do you not like about the jacket pt silhouette from these?

To me, these largely capture what I want, sure maybe ill figure out what I want to do with the waist suppression and I might well ask to have that relaxed, And also fuller trousers, but like I said this is largely it, and everything else to me seems good, and also greatly superior to the SS stuff which I found to fit much worse, and for the same price and worse material too. In fact I really like the shoulders, the drape/swell, and really just the general silhouette of them. The pulling seems relatively subtle. They're also very comfortable, and don't get into a weird shape when I move (no lapel bowing unevenly instead the drape kind of folds on itself naturally a bit if I cross my arms and the lapel remains straight and retains a nice line no bending, no collar gaps. I like the skirt/quarters too. I'd really like a specific critique in these features because to me this looks quite a lot like what I want, and I'm as of yet unable to comprehend their inferiority.

And also as much as people comment on the pull on the buttoning point, I've scoured the forums and I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one with some pull there, including some highly praised jackets from the DB thread. Like, it's natural for there to be some pull, even some of the steed or huntsman ones I've seen have it, and well, I can't see a notably more severe case of it on my jackets. They literally just look fine to me, I still don't see it.

Also my vision is definitely not GQesque >.< I just emulate different stuff I see and sometimes it's #menswear. I never did that with anything from GQ though.

 

[The Noodles]

 

[Claghorn]

First and second aren't bad. Third is too small. Can't tell about the fourth.

Why do you always have the sleeves so short? Just contributes to the impression that the clothes are too small for you.

GQ-ish is just what a lot if us refer to anything which "bastardizes" "classic menswear" in the direction of trendy popular appeal. And despite the connotation of my word choice, I don't see anything wrong with it. I admittedly dislike how it looks, but I don't see anything superior in largely adhering to slower moving fashion trends (generation to generation) vs trying to keep up with fast fashion (every couple of years to every couple of years).

 

[Cleav]



J-Frat for a derby I'd go for their blind split-toe with the pie-crust apron  (1st pic)  It's a sublime shoe.  I see you don't have any Norwegers -

think the EG Dover   -  

in your collection. 

 You've got variety, but IMO u could go for nicely finished shoes - EG, G&G or Lobb -  

I'd agree Pliny, kopped these on Wednesday. Been on my radar for some time and having shipped a couple out in these come.

Spoiler: MorePics

 

[Isolation]

I just took this.

Here with a grainy picture you barely see any wrinkles (edit: turns out you can but the only reason is because of the torch I had to put on the floor because the light is out) , so of course the SuSu looks fine too because there's no way one can see the problems when it's far away and dark.. There's always going to be some wrinkles, but lighting distance and camera quality affects that.

I want to explain that the sleeve length is because two of the shirts are FC and I got it bunched up/didn't pull it out properly (I'm not used to FC so I didn't think to fix them properly). They are fine length in other photos with other shirts and in fact they are all made same length. Arguably I should have wider sleeves too? Edit: oh yeah I pull my sleeve back a bit to show the watch I'm wearing in the shot maybe that's why it looks off? I don't walk around trying to flash my cheapo seikos in my defence.

In any case even so that seems like a minor thing that I can change in the future. I feel like to say this is worse that the suitsupply stuff makes no sense to me, and I hope I'm not deluding myself into thinking that because I'm more emotionally invested, but, well I don't see it atm.

Btw what do you mean too small? Where? That picture actually is my favorite and is my favorite jacket probably, though I kind of get that it's a bit exaggerated on the features I like. It still looks coherent and well proportioned to me.

This probably doesn't help my case but SartoriNapoli liked my flannel DB

 

[Claghorn]

It might also be that this is one of the first pics we've where the proximity of the camera isn't distorting the fit.

 

[in stitches]



Agree. I'd prefer short wing or cap toe. I'm not crazy about the lines on those, especially the points around throat/lace area. Such an awesome shade of brown suede though and the edge stain pops.

My man. Especially about the especially the points around the throat/lace area.