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Michigan Planner

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Down for deep-V undershirts for sure. Those are very hard to find in a soft cotton.

And I was wearing that indigo-dyed pocket tee the other day. Great fabric and a great shirt.

And maybe I'm out of touch, but I think that a patch breast pocket on the otherwise fantastic shawl collar button fleece would be a turnoff for a lot of guys, myself included. I love breast pockets of all kinds on sportcoats but I'd strongly prefer clean lines up at the chest for knitwear.


I think I was the one who requested the breast pocket and though I'd love to see it there, that shawl collar fleece is awesome enough without it that I'd happily purchase either way.
 

metranger8694

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I want to plug the indigo and olive linen options in the new EFF. I've owned two linen Walts from back when linen Walts were stock items in what I think is that very same indigo fabric and in a brighter green called "juniper." They're two absolute staples for me. Can't imagine summer without them. Green-tone linen in particular is a great warm-wether match for a navy SC.

Two old photos of these trousers below:


(exposure is off here on the indigo, but you get the idea)



Epaulet completists will note that this shirt is the Ashland Lavender Chambray.
What size Walt are you? I just ordered the Indigo's and was wondering if you sized up or went with your regular Walt size and did you find the linen /smaller tighter than usual or just fine?

I just picked up the Indigo in a Gable fit and I'm tempted by the green as well. I might pick it up before the end of the sale if its still kicking around.
Whoa. Cool.

I have a pair of George Strait Wrangler jeans that have a high rise and the waistband sits up high like a Gable and I really like the fit and how they feel. So comfortable. Maybe I'll one day take the jump to a Gable. Just have to find the perfect fabric to do so.
 

Nik Telford

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What size Walt are you? I just ordered the Indigo's and was wondering if you sized up or went with your regular Walt size and did you find the linen /smaller tighter than usual or just fine?

Whoa. Cool.

I have a pair of George Strait Wrangler jeans that have a high rise and the waistband sits up high like a Gable and I really like the fit and how they feel. So comfortable. Maybe I'll one day take the jump to a Gable. Just have to find the perfect fabric to do so.
I've got a couple now
shog[1].gif
. I have a medium grey hopsack, the purple haze flannel, the cream and navy windowpane, oxford grey flannel, and the super-heavyweight mink/wool/cashmere. Soon to be this one. If I pick up the green it'll probably be a taylor. I never have any specific criteria for what I order as a gable. Just if I think it'll look cool with the big-ass extended waistband. I highly recommend you get at least one.
 
Last edited:

FrankCowperwood

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Is that a flannel popover? If so, very cool!
What is that jacket? Looks like some sort of heavy double breasted windowpane?


Oh, yes, I am not sure there's a shirt fabric that out there that I won't have made into a popover. As Homer Simpson said about drinking and boating, it sounds like a challenge to me.

Giving the Calgary butchers a go today. There don't get a whole lot of wear during the winter, I wear a lot of commando soles to deal with all the snow and ice. But still very happy with them!

800


I love these. In a perfect world, Mike would have made a ton of money selling these.

Thanks for the reminder @Shoeluv
 and I'm glad to know that so many guys dug the belts!

I'm definitely open to it. We hit a few snags with our former belt production that were hard to surmount...

1) At first our business was really solid, especially with the Chromexcel product. I think that we sold many of them to our regular customers (you guys) who got them and love them. But as others pointed out, you don't need more than one chromexcel belt! It started to slow down after a year, and it was hard to acquire new guys to pick them up as they are available from a lot of vendors... both big and small. Making a casual belt is easy, so we need a point of difference. It's actually very difficult to make a good calfskin dress belt, so that product has always done well for us. 

2) Our return rate was enormous. Not because of sizing or quality.. but because of color. Chromexcel is really inconsistent. Guys would buy an Alden or whatever in brown cxl and then search for an exact match. This is hard, and maybe kind of crazy for a rugged boot, but we'd take almost 40% returns on brown and natural because the tone wasn't in line with whatever footwear that customer hard. Impossible to get around that, as each batch we received was significantly different. 

So, I'm wondering... how important is is to use Chromexcel? I can make really excellent belts in Portugal, and we can cut down the price as well. We'd be talking $75 for Front Quarter Horse.. really gorgeous skin and nice construction. Same hide that's used in our Carver Chelsea boots. I'd love to build out our casual belt collection. We've been doing reliably well with the leather dress belts and the suede one. If you guys have examples of what you'd like then I'm all ears. And if we're not constrained by using Chromexcel, then I have a lot of great options. 


FQ HH sounds nice to me. Carver leather is really lightweight and has a great finish. Should make a nice belt.
 

metranger8694

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I've got a couple now
shog%5B1%5D.gif
. I have a medium grey hopsack, the purple haze flannel, the cream and navy windowpane, oxford grey flannel, and the super-heavyweight mink/wool/cashmere. Soon to be this one. If I pick up the green it'll probably be a taylor. I never have any specific criteria for what I order as a gable. Just if I think it'll look cool with the big-ass extended waistband. I highly recommend you get at least one.

Maybe I'll start off with a Taylor as you can wear a belt with them.

I look at a Taylor as a Gable with training wheels.
 

Shoeluv

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Thanks for the reminder @Shoeluv and I'm glad to know that so many guys dug the belts!

I'm definitely open to it. We hit a few snags with our former belt production that were hard to surmount...

1) At first our business was really solid, especially with the Chromexcel product. I think that we sold many of them to our regular customers (you guys) who got them and love them. But as others pointed out, you don't need more than one chromexcel belt! It started to slow down after a year, and it was hard to acquire new guys to pick them up as they are available from a lot of vendors... both big and small. Making a casual belt is easy, so we need a point of difference. It's actually very difficult to make a good calfskin dress belt, so that product has always done well for us.

2) Our return rate was enormous. Not because of sizing or quality.. but because of color. Chromexcel is really inconsistent. Guys would buy an Alden or whatever in brown cxl and then search for an exact match. This is hard, and maybe kind of crazy for a rugged boot, but we'd take almost 40% returns on brown and natural because the tone wasn't in line with whatever footwear that the customer had. Impossible to get around that, as each batch we received was significantly different.

So, I'm wondering... how important is is to use Chromexcel? I can make really excellent belts in Portugal, and we can cut down the price as well. We'd be talking $75 for Front Quarter Horse.. really gorgeous skin and nice construction. Same hide that's used in our Carver Chelsea boots. I'd love to build out our casual belt collection. We've been doing reliably well with the leather dress belts and the suede one. If you guys have examples of what you'd like then I'm all ears. And if we're not constrained by using Chromexcel, then I have a lot of great options.

I really liked the Chromexcel, but what really drew me was the style and ease. It was @PatrickR who recommended the belts a few years ago, he said buy a few of these and never worry about casual belts again. I haven't for 3 years now, until my oldest son stole my natural one. Now I only have my brown left and wearing it 250+ days a year is gonna wear it out. I have looked around for another belt and checked JCrew and a few others but their quality wasn't as good and the hardware was not as refined. You put out a HH belt and I am in, brown and british khaki for me (I would probably just on a brown suede one as well if possible. Then at least 2 other browns for my sons.
 

Epaulet

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I really liked the Chromexcel, but what really drew me was the style and ease. It was @PatrickR who recommended the belts a few years ago, he said buy a few of these and never worry about casual belts again. I haven't for 3 years now, until my oldest son stole my natural one. Now I only have my brown left and wearing it 250+ days a year is gonna wear it out. I have looked around for another belt and checked JCrew and a few others but their quality wasn't as good and the hardware was not as refined. You put out a HH belt and I am in, brown and british khaki for me (I would probably just on a brown suede one as well if possible. Then at least 2 other browns for my sons.

Cool, this is great feedback. We're going to use more and more of that FQH in our footwear, so it also makes sense that we offer matching casual belts. It comes in plenty of great colors, and I think that dropping the price to $75 with better leather and construction can be the ticket forward. We'll talk to the factory and see if we can develop some samples in the next few weeks.
 

Patrick R

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"It was @Patrick R who recommended the belts a few years ago, he said buy a few of these and never worry about casual belts again." That was one of my best pieces of advice with respect to telling other people what to buy.
 

CanadaCal

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Cool, this is great feedback. We're going to use more and more of that FQH in our footwear, so it also makes sense that we offer matching casual belts. It comes in plenty of great colors, and I think that dropping the price to $75 with better leather and construction can be the ticket forward. We'll talk to the factory and see if we can develop some samples in the next few weeks.

This FQH... What other colours are available for say....a potential trainer pre-order?
 

metranger8694

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"It was @Patrick R who recommended the belts a few years ago, he said buy a few of these and never worry about casual belts again." That was one of my best pieces of advice with respect to telling other people what to buy.
I wear the natty CXL belt 2-3 times a week.

They do stretch. Bought a 36 and it stretched so I gave it to my mega non SF buddy who plotzed when he looked at it and tried it on.

Then I got a 34 but I've moved up almost 2 holes.

But no biggie(smalls). Still love it. It's perfect.
 

fairlynerdy

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Cool, this is great feedback. We're going to use more and more of that FQH in our footwear, so it also makes sense that we offer matching casual belts. It comes in plenty of great colors, and I think that dropping the price to $75 with better leather and construction can be the ticket forward. We'll talk to the factory and see if we can develop some samples in the next few weeks. 


I'd be all over a 1.5" belt in the smoke FQHH.
 

Epaulet

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The Teba Jacket Cometh!!


Hey guys... here's the long-promised preview of the Teba jacket. I'm absolutely in love with this sample. Here's the details:

1) The Teba is a classic Spanish country jacket. It's typically very relaxed and slouchy. I have a size 40 from Justo Gimeno, and its pretty huge on me.
2) We echoed the classic shape and details, but made it in Portugal with the same general proportions as the Vittorio. Fit is more or less one-to-one with our sportcoat
3) It has working shirt sleeves and a signature notch lapel. Closes with a four button front and hip flap pockets. The back is unvented, which still works with my sort of big ass. Shouldn't be a fit issue on anyone.
4) The body is completely deconstructed and it's built like a shirt jacket. No canvassing, but we've got a strong interliner from Germany to maintain the lapel shape and roll. That's how the OG one is made.

I'm absolutely in love with this garment, and in many ways.. I think that it exemplifies where menswear is heading. It's soft, comfortable, and biz-caz. Its less serious than a sportcoat, but definitely lends a dressy air to what you're wearing. It's pretty uncommon and really gets a lot of attention and compliments. I've been enjoying the feeling of wearing it around LA and looking sharp, but not too buttoned up. Here's the pics below. I'm happy with the sizing, but toying with making the stock length a little bit shorter in the body.











I'd love to hear your feedback on the overall design and shape of it.

And I've also got a business proposal for you. This sample is made up in a deep indigo linen from Duca Visconti di Modrone. It's freaking beautiful, and it's the most expensive linen that they make. If we run a group buy concept on this we can (1) get a pretty good price and (2) offer shorts and longs.

Fabric minimum is pretty large - it's 300m, which by itself would make nearly 150 Teba jackets. I don't think that we can sell that amount in one single color. But I could offer the following:

Teba Jacket: $450
Vittorio Jacket: $495
Walt Porto Trouser: $165
Taylor Trouser: $185

Teba and Vittorio can be done in coherent shorts and longs - where both the body and the sleeve move up or down by single inches, with button placement scaling. The two trouser fits would be delivered unfinished at the hem so you can cuff them if you want.

What do you guys think? The prospect of a Teba suit is pretty rad. And these prices, even for the trousers are very competitive. I'll shoot videos with everything too, but really.. this is the nicest dark navy linen that I've felt. We'd look to list this project in the middle of February with deposits and delivery by May so you've got the full season to rock it.
 

rick

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The Teba Jacket Cometh!!

Hey guys... here's the long-promised preview of the Teba jacket. I'm absolutely in love with this sample. Here's the details: 1) The Teba is a classic Spanish country jacket. It's typically very relaxed and slouchy. I have a size 40 from Justo Gimeno, and its pretty huge on me. 2) We echoed the classic shape and details, but made it in Portugal with the same general proportions as the Vittorio. Fit is more or less one-to-one with our sportcoat 3) It has working shirt sleeves and a signature notch lapel. Closes with a four button front and hip flap pockets. The back is unvented, which still works with my sort of big ass. Shouldn't be a fit issue on anyone. 4) The body is completely deconstructed and it's built like a shirt jacket. No canvassing, but we've got a strong interliner from Germany to maintain the lapel shape and roll. That's how the OG one is made. I'm absolutely in love with this garment, and in many ways.. I think that it exemplifies where menswear is heading. It's soft, comfortable, and biz-caz. Its less serious than a sportcoat, but definitely lends a dressy air to what you're wearing. It's pretty uncommon and really gets a lot of attention and compliments. I've been enjoying the feeling of wearing it around LA and looking sharp, but not too buttoned up. Here's the pics below. I'm happy with the sizing, but toying with making the stock length a little bit shorter in the body. I'd love to hear your feedback on the overall design and shape of it. And I've also got a business proposal for you. This sample is made up in a deep indigo linen from Duca Visconti di Modrone. It's freaking beautiful, and it's the most expensive linen that they make. If we run a group buy concept on this we can (1) get a pretty good price and (2) offer shorts and longs. Fabric minimum is pretty large - it's 300m, which by itself would make nearly 150 Teba jackets. I don't think that we can sell that amount in one single color. But I could offer the following: Teba Jacket: $450 Vittorio Jacket: $495 Walt Porto Trouser: $165 Taylor Trouser: $185 Teba and Vittorio can be done in coherent shorts and longs - where both the body and the sleeve move up or down by single inches, with button placement scaling. The two trouser fits would be delivered unfinished at the hem so you can cuff them if you want. What do you guys think? The prospect of a Teba suit is pretty rad. And these prices, even for the trousers are very competitive. I'll shoot videos with everything too, but really.. this is the nicest dark navy linen that I've felt. We'd look to list this project in the middle of February with deposits and delivery by May so you've got the full season to rock it.
Can these be made up in any size I take a 48 sometimes 50 sportcoat or an xl or xxl
 

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