Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Originally Posted by chorse123

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I was wondering if it could be used as an odd-jacket--perhaps with lighter colored linen or cotton pants. It seemed on the borderline.
To me, it could not. First of all, I don't think the texture of fresco works for jackets, and I also think that the pattern and color are too dull. It is a perfect suit fabric, though.

^^^ Agree, definitely a suiting, not a jacketing.

Very nice chorse!

So, what do you think about patch pockets for the grey/brown windowpane? Or would it be better with flapped pockets?

Originally Posted by chorse123

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So, what do you think about patch pockets for the grey/brown windowpane? Or would it be better with flapped pockets?

I think either would be fine. It's an informal cloth as it is, the only thing that gives it any crispness is the weave. Put flap pockets on it and you dress it up a bit. With patch, it's definitely casual.

The safe thing to do is flaps, that's just the usual thing with worsteds. But a summer worsted in a light color, either solid or window (never striped) can take patch pockets, IMO.

Originally Posted by chorse123

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So, what do you think about patch pockets for the grey/brown windowpane? Or would it be better with flapped pockets?

If youre going to get patch pockets, I would get three patch pockets. Incidentally, who will be making this for you? I ask because there are patch pockets and patch pockets and the better your tailor is at designing and setting the pockets and matching the patterns, the smarter they will look.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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If youre going to get patch pockets, I would get three patch pockets. Incidentally, who will be making this for you? I ask because there are patch pockets and patch pockets and the better your tailor is at designing and setting the pockets and matching the patterns, the smarter they will look.
I am curious as to why you suggest three over two. Personally, I like both, but do prefer three on lighter weight coats. I do agree re good versus bad patch pockets, but unfortunately one sees more bad than good. To me sportcoats have patch pockets. Period.

Originally Posted by iammatt

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I am curious as to why you suggest three over two. Personally, I like both, but do prefer three on lighter weight coats. I do agree re good versus bad patch pockets, but unfortunately one sees more bad than good.

The only reason to get two is on a DB. I have an SB with two, and I think it would have looked better with three.

Patch pocket shape is not that hard to get right. The key is to avoid straightenss and symmetry.

To me sportcoats have patch pockets. Period.

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I like patch pockets, and am getting two jackets now with patch, but this is a bit too doctrinaire, even for me.

I prefer two patch + welt breast pocket for fresco, and three patch for linen. No rationale. Pure desire. One day, the spell will be broken

Originally Posted by iammatt

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I am curious as to why you suggest three over two. Personally, I like both, but do prefer three on lighter weight coats. I do agree re good versus bad patch pockets, but unfortunately one sees more bad than good.

To me sportcoats have patch pockets. Period.


I think it's a matter of symmetry and honesty of purpose. When you get side patch pockets only, I think it looks too functional, like youre carrying the mail. Or like you are trying to sneak patch pockets passed people. When you get three, it's an admission that the suit is more relaxed. Which is why I would never get patch pockets on a double breasted suit.

I have one patch pocket suit a medium grey worsted flannel which is like 120s. It has that 1920s RL English estate casual feeling to it. I actually got it for after hours or a "friday" suit.

Which is another thing, I like patch pockets on soft fabrics like tweed and flannel n cashmere. I think on stiffer fabrics like mohair, tonik, fresco etc youre running the risk the pockets will eventually stand away from the suit. In any case, I like soft patch pockets that collapse into the body of the suit, not stand away from it.

I agree with you that I prefer patch pockets on sport coats and polo coats.

i would get flap pockets if I were getting Chorse's suit cloth made up. Of course I dont like windowpane suits that much but then I suppose no one wants to hear that...

Originally Posted by Manton

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The safe thing to do is flaps, that's just the usual thing with worsteds. But a summer worsted in a light color, either solid or window (never striped) can take patch pockets, IMO.

I was hesitating in part because of the lighter color. It seems that the patch pockets may stand out.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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If youre going to get patch pockets, I would get three patch pockets. Incidentally, who will be making this for you? I ask because there are patch pockets and patch pockets and the better your tailor is at designing and setting the pockets and matching the patterns, the smarter they will look.

I prefer three open patch pockets as well.

The suit will most likely be made by Mr. Ned. My first order from them was a patch pocket jacket, but it was in a solid color, so hard to say on pattern matching. I also have a tuxedo from them. I'm not thrilled with the fit, but the tux was something of a compromise on cost/availability/necessity. I'm going to take pictures of both sometime soon to see what you all think should be done for my next order.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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i would get flap pockets if I were getting Chorse's suit cloth made up. Of course I dont like windowpane suits that much but then I suppose no one wants to hear that...

Oops. I misunderstood and thought he was speaking of a jacket. I would get flaps as well.

Originally Posted by chorse123

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I was hesitating in part because of the lighter color. It seems that the patch pockets may stand out.

I'm not near it now, but I have a tan suit with three open patch pockets that I can photograph for you. Never thought they stood out much, but who knows.

Something for next fall. Lambswool/Angora blend, from Paul Stuart.

^ great pattern. Looks warm too.