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Soft-shouldered suit recommendations

muskypicker

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I'm looking to increase my suit inventory and would really like to purchase some soft-shouldered, high-gorge suits. What are the general OTR recommendations? I've seen a few Oxxford Radcliffe suits that looked nice (doesn't seem boxy like other Oxxfords)...never tried them on. How about Zegna or Isaia? Two or three button...doesn't matter, but I do enjoy the higher gorge and softer shoulders.

Thank you for any opinions.
 

bmulford

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I bought a few Isaia sport coats that were soft shouldered from STP. I found them to be well constructed and very nice. The Zegna's I have are nice as well, but don't compare to the finish of the Isaia's.
 

BigHandMan

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Originally Posted by bmulford
I bought a few Isaia sport coats that were soft shouldered from STP. I found them to be well constructed and very nice. The Zegna's I have are nice as well, but don't compare to the finish of the Isaia's.

+1
 

GuidoWongolini

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FLAME SUIT ON..

After years of Brioni, Corneliani & Carusso (all MTM) in pusuit of the softest of shoulder yet with a waisted body I have succumed to Armani (yes I hear the pin drop) - with out a doubt the original deconstructed soft shoulder power suit.

Zegna I tried & tried - workmanship was good but the shoulders are still quite square & padded.

So I have recently achived all my other suits & have invested in Armani.

I couldn't be happier (for the following reasons):
1. OTR fits me perfectly (& I am slight in build from road cycling & height impaired - 5'7")
2. No longer have to wait up to 3 months for suits to be delivered from Italy, only to still have at least 2 fittings
3. I save $$$ (nearly 30%)
4. Great soft fabrics (some are fragile, but they are special) not available to anyone but Armani
5. With my old suits I would get comments of appreciation from tailors & the odd CxO level client, but now I get a lot of comments from women (that I know & don't know - something how about the drape & that's before they ask where I purchased from, whether for their partners or family.. & then you utter the word Armani.. The power of the brand). I much prefer to have comments from women
bigstar[1].gif


Some pics of me with Armani.

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GuidoWongolini

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Originally Posted by yfyf.org
Looks good, I think it really suits you. I wouldn't say your slight since you seem to be pretty built and filling that jacket properly. For OTR, how did you solve the jacket length issue? your jacket pockets seem to be in the right place. Usually when I get OTR, I have to shorten the jacket and the jacket pockets tend to look a little lower than they should. Are you buying Giorgio Armani? Or one of the diffusion lines? I haven't been into a GA store in a long time, partly because he made that ****** remark about Savile Row and I'm excellent at holding grudges.
Correction my suits & s/coats are 36S & sometimes 36R depending on the style (when getting a R the store shortens 3 cm - which is what I have found to be the difference). As for the pocket stance/height balance - from experience Armani's jackets are cut long, but the pocket placement has been good for me? Also the fact that Armani chooses to not have flaps on the pockets helps with the visual. As for fitting the jacket - I agree, when I used to have to get my suits made for me I was told I had a 38 shoulder & a body closer to 35. I tend to buy GA Black label, but for everyday business I stick to GA White label navy wool crepe suits as they are resilient to crease's & I won't cringe if I damage a pant or jacket from daily rigours/traumas (such as the dreaded taxi ride) & I can always order another piece. I also like to have a standard professional uniform when meeting clients for the first time or in a b/room setting i.e navy suits with either white or pink shirt & always with dark knit ties (sometimes I deviate & wear the red/navy horizontal one, otherwise my other knit ties are varying navy's or navy with white dots). Like you up until the last 6 months, the last time I walked into a GA store would have been 10 years ago (& that was to buy a dinner suit - which I still have & wear). Until recently I used to mock people buying fashion brands such as GA etc for professional attire. But recently my partner thought I needed a change, so we tried GA & the rest is history. I thank her. Also I like the fact that when I travel & if there is an emergency, I can walk into any GA store PRONTO! As for the Saville Row remark - been there done that (i.e traditional in a Italian guise), & quite happy to be soft & fluid instead of stiff & stuffy. Just my personal view as I think we on this forum put too much ephasis on the traditional houses when what we should be encouraging is for people to try everything & develop ones own style through fit & comfort & not be dictated by what is the trad.. Sorry, rant over.
 

neyus

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I recommend Ralph Lauren. Compared to other suits in my closet such as Zegna, Canali, Oxxford and Corneliani, RL has the softest shoulders.

I think the above poster looks great in the Armani suits.
 

Gus

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I like Isaia, but there are several models so you need to find the one best for you. Also Borrelli has a wonderful soft shoulder, but again there are several styles.

I never really realized the importance of a great fitting soft shoulder until I got one. I heard lots and lots of compliments about it. Get the right one and I'm sure you will too!
 

GuidoWongolini

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Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy
I like Isaia, but there are several models so you need to find the one best for you. Also Borrelli has a wonderful soft shoulder, but again there are several styles.

I never really realized the importance of a great fitting soft shoulder until I got one. I heard lots and lots of compliments about it. Get the right one and I'm sure you will too!


Agreed about the shoulder fit.

I just remembered that Kiton also has a beautiful shoulder, just coudn't justify the $$$.
 

Toiletduck

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I think it'd be nice to see you with your arms at your sides to see the fit of the jacket
 

GuidoWongolini

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Originally Posted by Toiletduck
I think it'd be nice to see you with your arms at your sides to see the fit of the jacket

Sure - some from last week (the lighting is not the best, will try again this week).
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luk-cha

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Originally Posted by Toiletduck
I think it'd be nice to see you with your arms at your sides to see the fit of the jacket


and raise your arms latrally too to see if the scye is cut high enough, also a side veiw to check balance also!
 

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