Let's talk about "pull".

amplifiedheat · Jun 18, 2010

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

I am fairly top heavy and broad shouldered for my legs and height so I feel a bit of pull looks good on my jackets. It gives a more slimming effect than drapey. Whenever something drapes too much it makes the top of my body look way too big, which I don't like. If my trousers are made to accomodate the drapey top they will be rather wide legged and it just looks bad. I only wear MTM suits, but I am wondering if full on bespoke can actually look drapey but proportioned as well?
Pull isn't what you need. You can have suits that are neither drapey nor tight. Consider a narrower shoulder and either less waist suppression or a more flared skirt. Trousers can be full and well-fitted--a sharp crease and a straight-down drape are the important things. A good role model is Sean Connery in his Bond days. As a former bodybuilder, he had a substantial upper body (http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/200...EX_468x651.jpg), but his suits were superb.

Wes Bourne · Jun 18, 2010

Originally Posted by amplifiedheat

superb.

patrickBOOTH · Jun 18, 2010

Originally Posted by amplifiedheat

Pull isn't what you need. You can have suits that are neither drapey nor tight. Consider a narrower shoulder and either less waist suppression or a more flared skirt. Trousers can be full and well-fitted--a sharp crease and a straight-down drape are the important things.

A good role model is Sean Connery in his Bond days. As a former bodybuilder, he had a substantial upper body (http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/200...EX_468x651.jpg), but his suits were superb.

All of my jackets do have narrow shoulders, however less waist supression looks too boxy. Perhaps a more flared skirt is the answer. I'd perfect not to go the full trouser route either. I like the look of slim, and I always feel a mess when things aren't somewhat snug.

jefferyd · Jun 18, 2010

Maybe this has been said already (I'm too lazy to read the whole thread), but the problem with drag, or pull, is that it points to the problem area, highlighting areas of tightness and making them more obvious. Something that fits correctly won't draw attention to problem areas, like full hips. I, for example, have wide hips compared to my shoulders; the garment in the photo shows how a bit of an extended shoulder and a bit of drape in the chest helps to camouflage that; if the coat was cut too tight in the hip, drag lines would form pointing to the hip and it might be the first thing that attracts the eye.

Martin Stall · Jun 18, 2010

Originally Posted by edmorel

not the best pic, but what do you mean?

Originally Posted by George

My own tailor refuses to acknowledge the Spalla Camcia shirt sleeve thing. As he says he's a tailor not a shirtmaker.

That.

Bull · Jun 18, 2010

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/0..._n_617005.html

George · Jun 18, 2010

Originally Posted by Wes Bourne

He's not called 'Amplifiedheat' for nothing you know.

amplifiedheat · Jun 18, 2010

Originally Posted by George

He's not called 'Amplifiedheat' for nothing you know.

I said his suits were superb, not his physique. Lotta projection going on here...

George · Jun 19, 2010

Originally Posted by amplifiedheat

I said his suits were superb, not his physique. Lotta projection going on here...
Yes, I know, but you posted a picture of him stood posing away, wearing only his knickers and a jauntily perched Glengarry, whilst leaning, on a similarly clad 'friend'. You got off lightly

tailorgod · Jun 19, 2010

While it's save to say that there is no "good" pull, we can probably agree that there is a "good" manica camicia and a "bad" one (the latter being just a badly set sleeve with too much width overall).
These are examples for both!

I can live with the example on the right. I just wouldn't use it on a business suit. Even if that means it lacks a significant Neapolitan styling element!

nioh · Jun 19, 2010

There seems to be a lot of complaints about using spalla camcia on business suits. With the overall rather appalling state of business dress, what issue is it really? I mean, it cannot be that bad to sport bespoke suits with spalla camcia (granted that most of them are well fitting) rather than what-have-you ill-fitting rtw shoulders. To me, fit should be above all else as the majority rather wear horrible cuts due to it's label with little or no attention to true fit.

MetroStyles · Jun 19, 2010

Too much pull around the chest?

GQgeek · Jun 19, 2010

Originally Posted by nioh

There seems to be a lot of complaints about using spalla camcia on business suits. With the overall rather appalling state of business dress, what issue is it really? I mean, it cannot be that bad to sport bespoke suits with spalla camcia (granted that most of them are well fitting) rather than what-have-you ill-fitting rtw shoulders. To me, fit should be above all else as the majority rather wear horrible cuts due to it's label with little or no attention to true fit.
In most circles, I can't imagine that anyone would even notice. Once you go spalla, it's hard to go back. i'd never have a jacket made without it at this point. Anyway, pull looks marsupialed and I can't imagine being comfortable in a jacket that fit like that. It's just another dumb fad that will eventually wane.

Martin Stall · Jun 19, 2010

Pull equals spalla camicia.

Yes, I'm looking for a fight

jefferyd · Jun 19, 2010

I miss the drape wars.

Let's talk about "pull".

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