WW Chan's Neopolitan shoulder construction - pictures

Originally Posted by Svenn

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^ I guess the position I imagine wanting to do with no constriction is the very one in your avatar gld203... or perhaps slouching in a chair and having both arms outstretched to the keyboard. Being able to do to either of those with little/no constrcition would be awesome.

I remember, these pics... is this (first one) a roped shoulder with no padding perhaps?:

The navy blue has a concave/rope shoulder. I remember these pictures, I think both jackets have no shoulder pads.

I personally like the look of a structured coat alot more. i used to be bothered by some of the soft shouldered stuff that was posted on here. But after getting into Neapolitan brands Isaia, attolini, kiton etc i find myself getting more utility from the comfort of the Neapolitan makers than the aesthetic of like a brioni. Before when i looked at some of the soft tailored jackets that were posted on here i used to think it looked sloppy, but now i think wow that looks comfortable. It really takes getting used too imo, and im not joking when i say this, a friend of mine came over to see the different types of suit styles she said the Brioni looked really really good and the attolini looked like something i picked up from mens wearhouse another friend of mine who has no connection to the previous one also said the same thing, wont stop me from wearing them though.

Originally Posted by jeff13007

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I personally like the look of a structured coat alot more. i used to be bothered by some of the soft shouldered stuff that was posted on here. But after getting into Neapolitan brands Isaia, attolini, kiton etc i find myself getting more utility from the comfort of the Neapolitan makers than the aesthetic of like a brioni. Before when i looked at some of the soft tailored jackets that were posted on here i used to think it looked sloppy, but now i think wow that looks comfortable. It really takes getting used too imo, and im not joking when i say this, a friend of mine came over to see the different types of suit styles she said the Brioni looked really really good and the attolini looked like something i picked up from mens wearhouse another friend of mine who has no connection to the previous one also said the same thing, wont stop me from wearing them though.

with a neap shoulder it is really critical that you get a snug fit.

with a loose shoulder, yes, it will look sloppy and tired.

with a snug fit it is both amazingly comfortable and crisp.

i have a luciano barbera jacket with literally zero padding. by virtue merely of a very pronounced seam, it looks marvelously crisp and follows my natural contours. perfetto!

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

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if you have a good build, the NS allows your build to naturally shine and without getting obscured under layers of padding.

conversely, if you're very bony, the NS is not a good choice.

i personally think it's marvelous. it looks great AND is super-comfortable.

makes sense, but on that account, wouldnt this style be not popular amongst italians? they are a generally of lanky and thin build compared to the americans. or is this a construction that is made by italy, for americans?

Originally Posted by sho'nuff

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makes sense, but on that account, wouldnt this style be not popular amongst italians? they are a generally of lanky and thin build compared to the americans. or is this a construction that is made by italy, for americans?

well, i think you may be picking stereotypes in both markets that may not hold completely true.

your average italian is not a rail-thin, bony-shouldered, prada-inhabiting undernourished person.

similarly, the average american high-end suit buyer is not a meaty-shouldered midwestern wrestler.

in looking at many of the pictures posted on SF, the average american of discerning taste who'd buy a neap suit would probably have an identical or very similar build to the average italian.

the critical thing is snugness of fit so that the shoulder hugs your bone structure. without it, it will look sloppy. with it, you will look god-like.

cheers.

There are plenty of Italian or Italian-trained tailors who make structured coats.

I for one like a structured shoulder but with as minimal padding as necessary and a bit of roping. However, A Brioni style shoulder is not just padding on the top from my understanding. It extends a considerable amount lower to create a more rounder shoulder almost to the point of creating an oval where the elongated sides are parallel to the ground rather than an oval with the elongated sides vertical to the ground which is more prevalent in suit design. I never would have imagined WWChan with it's British style as it's underpinnings to achieve a Neopolitan shoulder that good. These examples are pretty damn nice and flatter the wearer quite nicely. However these lucky few have the correct build. For most at least IMHO a more structured shoulder would flatter. Again, bravo, excellent pics and very nice jackets that flatter the wearer.

Originally Posted by gdl203

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Here's mine. I wouldn't go as far as calling it a Napolitan shoulder though.

Interesting how much your look here resembles your avatar's...

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^looks very nice phat guido, who is the other HK tailor you used for it?

^ nice colors, but the flared skirt looks a bit feminine

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Originally Posted by Phat Guido

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- I used Peter Lee back then
how does he compare to Chan?

Originally Posted by NorCal_1

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Ataturk, is this the same one?

Do you mind me asking as to what is on your head? I am very curious, is that some sort of hat or head strap for medical purposes? Thanks.

-LR

Originally Posted by ljrcustom

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Do you mind me asking as to what is on your head? I am very curious, is that some sort of hat or head strap for medical purposes? Thanks. -LR
Are you serious? That was photoshopped in.