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I went navy from Schott NYC. Thanks for your advice.
Got the coat - it's great. But the navy is so dark its black. The tag says navy but I've been comparing it to other black objects in daylight and it looks the same- It's black. Maybe it was mistagged. Anyone else ever have that problem?
i say forget schott and sterlingwear, buy a vintage or used one on ebay. i think peacoats look nice when the melton wool is broken in and has had a bit of a beating to it. i bought one from the 1960's off of ebay for $50 fits like a dream.