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Drape tutorial?

LaoHu

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Originally Posted by Sator
I actually thought he had added extra waist suppression to it, because it looked quite waisted.

Cheech%2Band%2BChong%2Bnow.jpg
 

LaoHu

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^^^^^^^^^^^ Nice drape in that T-shirt!
 

LaoHu

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Originally Posted by edmorel
That's actually a clean chested brioni tee shirrt, noob
rolleyes.gif


shog[1].gif


I can see that now. No doubt crafted under the watchful eyes of an image of St. Pio.
 

LaoHu

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Originally Posted by Despos
Dave's not here man!

...and his dog suffers from brain damage from sniffing car exhaust....
 

dopey

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Originally Posted by Manton
I don't think there can be drape with a hard chestpiece. The chestpiece will prevent "drape" from occuring. So it is more accurate to say that drape = a full chest with a soft canvas, and the fronts and scye cut in such a way that the fullness in the chest "breaks" or rolls or folds, literally like a drape hanging in front of a window. This can be done with a high or low, stiff or soft, shoulder.
Correct. In that case, you just have a swelled chest. I happen to like that, too.
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by dopey
Correct. In that case, you just have a swelled chest. I happen to like that, too.

Wouldn't swelled be a sub category of drape? Another form/execution of drape?
 

Sator

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Originally Posted by Despos
Wouldn't swelled be a sub category of drape? Another form/execution of drape?

Or perhaps drape is a subcategory of the full chest. In the 19th century they used to cut the neck point too crooked and work it forward by forcefully stretching the front of armscye and aggressively shrinking the chest. They would then pad the chest with domette, add haircloth and canvas then quilt the chest. This would help create the pigeon chested ideal silhouette of the period. J King Wilson said it was the forerunner to the drape cut.

And yes, if you do add enough layers of haircloth to a heavy canvas, you could prevent the "rolling waves" from rolling. Still, drape coats from the 1930-40s were often relatively solidly structured by modern standards. All cloths from worsteds, to haircloth and linen canvas were stouter in those days.
 

LaoHu

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Originally Posted by dopey
Not the way I see it. In fact, it is the other way around. Drape is a swelled chest, unsupported by the canvas.

48dadccd5df05.jpg
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by dopey
Not the way I see it. In fact, it is the other way around. Drape is a swelled chest, unsupported by the canvas.

Or a swelled chest is drape, cleaned up and supported by the canvass.

Canvass structure gives definition to the contours/distribution or lack of contours of the drape. I put a chest piece with the warp on the horizontal and I get gentle vertical rolls though the chest area. On bias the roll takes on a different expression. I would define drape by its characteristic roll and then label it swelled or not.

A swelled drape or a draped swell. Tomato / tomahto
 

randallr

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I think people are baiting Sator as much as he is bating everyone else. Some on here talk about drape is if it were the apex of tailoring and that clean-cut is for those that appreciate and can only afford RTW. Do you disagree, Vox? Often it's talked about as if it were something only the wealthy and established could afford.
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
I blame the prominence of your head entirely for this conflagration.

Well done.


- B


Do I have to do everything for you?

Originally Posted by randallr
I think people are baiting Sator as much as he is bating everyone else. Some on here talk about drape is if it were the apex of tailoring and that clean-cut is for those that appreciate and can only afford RTW. Do you disagree, Vox? Often it's talked about as if it were something only the wealthy and established could afford.

Who? Who's said that drape is the apex of tailoring? Some people just prefer it, as far as I can tell. For whatever reason, others find that offensive.
 

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