A Shoemaker's blog... or something like that

How did I become a shoemaker? This is a short story, but let me talk about first the Hungarian shoe industry. A few decades ago it was one of the most important indursty. You could find shoemaker workshops, factories everywhere in the country - the huge market of Soviet Union bought the 90% percent of the production - actually everything. Shoemaker (and manufacturer) education was very popular, but - to tell the truth - not so high level. The "glory" of master craftsmen, which existed 100 years ago - disappeared. It was a real dilemma for me - I wanted to learn something higher level, as I counted to be an intelligent student in my schools. For a shoemaker... hmm.. I was too good. On the other hand, in the glorious times at least one member from a generation learnt leathercraft in my family. It is for minimum 6 generation (what I am sure), but most probably much more. So I didn't know: should I follow family traditions? Should I learn in high school and go to university? I did both. I inscribed to two schools (with some administrational cheat - it wasn't legal. first I should have to finish the first, then go to the second one) and I attended shoemaker school in the morning, then run to the high school at the evening. The first sometimes started at 6.30 (workshop started early), and as I had to travel more than one hour - you can imagine how early I had to wake up. Practically I was sleeping during teethwashing, and learnt to sleep in the bus (if I could sit - which was not so many times). The evening high school was until 9 pm, so I could catch the 9.30 bus - I also learnt to sleep 25 minutes, and wake up at the right bus stop. My school was in Újpest - traditionally the shoemaker center of Budapest. Hopefully our program was complete - we learnt all the traditional and modern technologies, even could go to a real workshop and practice shoemaking there. Sad, but true: in the last 20 years shoemaking industry disappeared in Hungary. Only a few workshop (mine too) and a very few factory exist, nothing more. after a few years of working (and taking valueable experience in hadmade men shoes, ballet shoes, repair work), I left the profession. I inscribed to a university and get a degree in economics. (yes, I am an economist too). I worked in banks, advertising agencies, run my own design company, selling softwares in far east. But making papers, running "projects", keeping presentations, planning budgets, design software ergonomy, marketing campaign.. etc. - these are not "real" things. Sure, you can get a lot of money from it - I did too, not so much but OK.. and what should I say to my son in a day when he asks me what did do? Should I say that bullshit? "I wrote nice papers and earn money". And what will happen to my creativity? As a man I want to "create". Not papers - something real. Something to use, wear, anything, but not papers anymore. And I made the decision: I will go back - I will be a shoemaker again. I will not take care about the extremly low respect of my profession in Hungary - I will make shoes! The way to reheel my family brand is an other long story. This was the story how did I became a shoemaker and how did I do it again. I hope you enjoyed. ps. I hoep I didn't hurt anyone, who still makes "papers". I keep that also important - I just don't intend to make anymore.

Thanks for sharing, Marcel!

Is it said, Köszönöm? Köszönöm!

Fascinating answer. Thanks, Marcell.

The brogued stitching along the "throat" of your balmoral boot is beautiful and is something missing in the other boots made by others. Nice touch on your part

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

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Thanks for sharing, Marcel!

Is it said, Köszönöm? Köszönöm!

Nagyon szÃvesen!

I promised to talk about my brand, but first a good news. I mean good news for beginner shoemakers.
I got letters every weeks from beginners that they want to have this and this, search for sources, materials, etc. I couldn't offer so much help to them. Sometimes I suggested to join to HCC community, because there are many helpful shoemakers there, maybe they know better this information.
I have to say: it is not enough. I remember when I had the same problem: I was fed up with advices, but no real help. So I decided to do something more - between my limits. I already mentioned that I made a small DIY kit - here it is.



If my upper maker will have some free capacity I ask her to make these simple derby models, and provide a good, comfortable form, simple rounded toed last. The KIT will contain a pair of insole, and sole, heels. (if there is more demand - I will see what I can do). The upper is made with a good quality, soft, but thick calf, with a soft lining. So from now on: I can send this, if someone ask for help. (not big quantities, this isn't a business - just support shoemakers).


What is the hardest part of my business?

Hmm. Not an easy question. Making shoes, talking about them, teaching shoemakers is something to enjoy. I don't really take it as a work. So hopefully work isn't that. I would say: building a brand, as I follow a different way. Normally you find out something, make a character for it, then put a lot of money to marketing and put it to the MARKET. (I learnt and practiced marketing - this what we did).

I recognised that a bespoke shoemaker maybe shouldn't be like this. Why? If you have a problem with XXX big brand, what can you do? write to them, and getting back an answer from someone, who will be sorry but don't take any personal responsibility. If you need some help, you can talk someone who is maybe just half as professional in the topic, than you the FAN. I decided to be a real person between my brand. Not so many maker do this job. Many of them represent here (ost probably the most important forum of style), but not what I do. I am the owner, the reheeler, the maker - so the most competent person in Koronya. I think this is the hardest part - I have to make so much communication, give answer to everyone, etc. I don't want to use assistant for this. People are important - they can talk about you, your product, they will buy it, etc.

Here it is 10.17 pm, I upload pitures to the internet, making DIY kits, answering letters (still have some to the morning) and writing this blog. But I like it.



Actually I can show you the next step of my Balmoral. This is the actual phase:



Tomorrow morning I will sew the welt on it starting around 7.30 am.

Good night!

Originally Posted by MarcellHUN

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I promised to talk about my brand, but first a good news. I mean good news for beginner shoemakers.
I got letters every weeks from beginners that they want to have this and this, search for sources, materials, etc. I couldn't offer so much help to them. Sometimes I suggested to join to HCC community, because there are many helpful shoemakers there, maybe they know better this information.
I have to say: it is not enough. I remember when I had the same problem: I was fed up with advices, but no real help. So I decided to do something more - between my limits. I already mentioned that I made a small DIY kit - here it is.

If my upper maker will have some free capacity I ask her to make these simple derby models, and provide a good, comfortable form, simple rounded toed last. The KIT will contain a pair of insole, and sole, heels. (if there is more demand - I will see what I can do). The upper is made with a good quality, soft, but thick calf, with a soft lining. So from now on: I can send this, if someone ask for help. (not big quantities, this isn't a business - just support shoemakers).

This is a great concept.

On a related note, when do you expect to complete the two shoemaking books?

Marcell,

I like your DIY kit idea!
My first upper is also a derby like yours. I think it is the easiest form of upper to "closed".

I used the iron you send to me to "re-done" the shoe edge, it was fun. ( I ask my cobbler to sand off the old edge dressing, so I can redone it again).

The HCC is very helpful for the shoemaking newcomer.

This is a great concept.

On a related note, when do you expect to complete the two shoemaking books?

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I guess the first will be finished at the early summer, the next one - I don't know. I didn't start yet.

Originally Posted by Fishball

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Marcell,

I like your DIY kit idea!
My first upper is also a derby like yours. I think it is the easiest form of upper to "closed".

I used the iron you send to me to "re-done" the shoe edge, it was fun. ( I ask my cobbler to sand off the old edge dressing, so I can redone it again).

The HCC is very helpful for the shoemaking newcomer.

Please post some picture about them! If you don't want here, send it to me. I am curious to see that!

I will take the pic of the upper tonight.
But I didn't take the pic of redoing the dress, so nothing to show
I also tried the wheel. Could I get other "wheel" or pattern of that tool?
I am also using old saw blade to make some knives.
I watched a TV program show a "skiver" made by the old HK shoemaker. The skiver was made from an old umbrella broke.

I am afraid I don't know what you mean with "wheel or pattern of that tool"?

Marcell, how do you keep your hands so clean? Your photos are always immaculate. My hands are always filthy

Originally Posted by Fishball

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I also tried the wheel. Could I get other "wheel" or pattern of that tool?

Originally Posted by MarcellHUN

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I am afraid I don't know what you mean with "wheel or pattern of that tool"?

I believe, he is referring to the ‘fancy-wheel’ employed on top of the welt.



http://www.sattlerbedarf-shop.de/sho...%3DStuppr.2%26

‘Stupp’ in German, ‘Sztuper’ in Polish and probably something similar in Hungarian.

Originally Posted by jimmyshoe

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Marcell, how do you keep your hands so clean? Your photos are always immaculate. My hands are always filthy

Thanks! I consider it as a compliment
If you keep your hands clean, you don't need to clean the expensive and special leathers. There are things which cannot be cleaned if gets dirty: lining leather, scraped sole, and some kind of upper leather. I go and wash my hand many times during the work.

And on the other hand - I hate when my hands are dirty.

ps. you will be surprised if you would know how strange I am in some other things..