A Shoemaker's blog... or something like that

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by MarcellHUN, Oct 3, 2008.

  1. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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    I believe, he is referring to the "˜fancy-wheel' employed on top of the welt.

    [​IMG]

    http://www.sattlerbedarf-shop.de/sho...%3DStuppr.2%26

    "˜Stupp' in German, "˜Sztuper' in Polish and probably something similar in Hungarian.


    Yes, we use german words.. [​IMG] So: Fishball! This is - most probably - not a wheel. I do it with a tool, which looks a stitch marker.. A fudge wheel's (I guess this is the name), mark is a bit different. Only my opinion..
     


  2. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Marcell,

    Here is my first upper, I made the pattern, click and sew. I never use the sewing machine before I learn shoemaking. I still don't handle the sewing machine well.

    [​IMG]
     


  3. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Yes, we use german words.. [​IMG] So: Fishball! This is - most probably - not a wheel. I do it with a tool, which looks a stitch marker.. A fudge wheel's (I guess this is the name), mark is a bit different. Only my opinion..

    Are you using this?

    [​IMG]
    Pic borrow from HCC forum.
     


  4. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Bengal-stripe,

    You are right, I am talking about that "wheel."
    I am learning shoemaking in chinese, so I don't really know the name of the tools in english.

    The wheel I mean is the hand tool in this photo:

    [​IMG]
    Also borrow from hcc forum.
     


  5. rebel222

    rebel222 Senior member

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    I am really enjoying this blog. I love looking at the raw photos. Craftsman-like professions run in my family. Unfortunately, I won't be working in a craft type trade, so I am considering shoe-making as a hobby when I graduate. Is this something I could eventually learn with trial & error, or would I need to learn under someone else?
     


  6. nykid10466

    nykid10466 New Member

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    what shoes are those in your icon...and your work is beautiful
     


  7. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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    I am really enjoying this blog. I love looking at the raw photos. Craftsman-like professions run in my family. Unfortunately, I won't be working in a craft type trade, so I am considering shoe-making as a hobby when I graduate. Is this something I could eventually learn with trial & error, or would I need to learn under someone else?

    Let's see.. If you start to make it with "trial and error" method - most probably you will pay double as much until you get the half level you should be (and takes 10 times more). There are many sophisticated methods, trick what you will never discover. I have seen many self taught shoemaker - with the same effort they put into shoemaking, they should be masters.

    With a teacher, you can avoid a lot of mistakes, but there is a danger. You will be addicted and you will be a professional shoemaker.

    I mentioned before: it is magic. Not trick, a real one. Seeing a flat material to be a wonderful, traditional product is unbelievable even after 1000 shoes. Every one has a personality - I know and remember ALL of the shoes I made (I make only individual bespoke products, so it is easy..). I know their story, who has them, I just don't get postcards from them.. [​IMG]

    Go to a master and learn there!
     


  8. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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    Are you using this? [​IMG] Pic borrow from HCC forum.
    Yes! I have 8 different sizes, but I also use fudge wheel sometimes.
     


  9. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Marcell,

    How is my upper? I know it is ugly, but after you made it, and know how diffcult it made, then you would start to appreciate more the shoes you buy and wear. [​IMG]
     


  10. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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    Marcell,

    How is my upper? I know it is ugly, but after you made it, and know how diffcult it made, then you would start to appreciate more the shoes you buy and wear. [​IMG]


    Not bad from a beginner! Practice and practice - this will make you master. (or search for an upper maker who will make you uppers.. [​IMG] kidding). Actually most of the shoemakers don't make the uppers for themselves - that is a different craft.
     


  11. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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    what shoes are those in your icon...and your work is beautiful

    Thanks!
     


  12. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Not bad from a beginner! Practice and practice - this will make you master. (or search for an upper maker who will make you uppers.. [​IMG] kidding). Actually most of the shoemakers don't make the uppers for themselves - that is a different craft.

    I did seach and email to an upper maker in England, but no response.
     


  13. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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    If you want, I can ask mine...
     


  14. jimmyshoe

    jimmyshoe Active Member

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    Yes I can imagine how strange you are in other things!!! I am a shoemaker after all, so I know lol.

    Going back to the clean/dirty hands debate. Do you cover your shoes in general or only very fragile leathers? And what do you use? I tend to use plastic bags now. I was trained to use white cotton, but I find that the edge ink could soak through and stain the upper. I don'tlike the fact that it leaves a small amount of impermeable plastic in the shoe, but feel that it gives the best protection.

    I use covers on very pale calf, glace kid and velvet pumps. You?
     


  15. jimmyshoe

    jimmyshoe Active Member

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    I am really enjoying this blog. I love looking at the raw photos. Craftsman-like professions run in my family. Unfortunately, I won't be working in a craft type trade, so I am considering shoe-making as a hobby when I graduate. Is this something I could eventually learn with trial & error, or would I need to learn under someone else?
    Yes I agree with Marcell on this one. You could spend an age training on your own but could really kickstart your making by doing a course. Try ours in NY in May or London in July 2009, carreducker.com BTW, we use a fudge wheel for marking the stitches on the welt, but agree that the single tool is more controlled and that a fudge wheel requires a more experienced hand
     


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