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Vested Napoli Suit

Manton

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This is a foothreakâ„¢. My mind is basically made up. Feel free to try to talk me out of it, however, or just denounce and ridicule.

Going to do a "Pants Across the Sea" suit. Jacket made in Naples, pants and vest made in New York. Reason: I have five yards of this cloth and it would make a great three piece suit. But you can't count on Italians to know how to make vests and you certainly can't expect them to make vest-rise trousers.

I want the pants to be high enough to wear with a vest and not have the waistband show below the vest, but not as high as Savile Row firefighter gear. No fishmouth back. Straight waist with belt loops. Tabs in back, a la Flusser, to raise the fork of the suspenders for when they are worn, but that can be tucked in when not worn. Suspenders with vest, belt with no vest.
 

Svenn

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I was told one only needs 4 yards for a 3-piece; and why don't you just lengthen the vest as opposed to raising the trousers?
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by Svenn
I was told one only needs 4 yards for a 3-piece; and why don't you just lengthen the vest as opposed to raising the trousers?

No way I can get 3 piece out of four yards.

Long vests look terrible. With low trousers, even worse.
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by edmorel
I don't understand the concept of a 3 piece Napoli suit.

I just explained it.
 

edmorel

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Originally Posted by Manton
I just explained it.

I'm slow. Would you consider a "fun" vest instead. I'm just picturing Italian on top, English on bottom (and middle) and it sounds weird but maybe it will work as a "best of both worlds" type of thing, like LL Alden says about his bespoke line.
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by edmorel
I'm slow. Would you consider a "fun" vest instead. I'm just picturing Italian on top, English on bottom (and middle) and it sounds weird but maybe it will work as a "best of both worlds" type of thing, like LL Alden says about his bespoke line.

The pants aren't going to look all that English. Though they won't look all that Italian either. Sort of in the middle. An inch or so higher rise than Ambrosi.
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by edmorel
you mentioned before that DB's are looked at funny in certain circles, do you find that the 3 piece has wider acceptance? I would think that to most people, a DB would not really stand out in any meaningful way but a 3 piece would.

You are proably right. I just want the option.
 

Sebastian

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Do you really think, you can't direct Italian tailors to make a proper 3 piece suit?

I have seen great examples of well fitting vests and high rise trousers made by Italians... But maybe we have different expectations of how high a vest should be cut. Still, this example should be high enough:

20+-+Villa+Carlotta.jpg


(Picture is courtesy of SF member Vaux le Vicomte's blog, which offers more than one example of a nice 3 piece of Italian origin.)
 

jeff13007

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Originally Posted by edmorel
I don't understand the concept of a 3 piece Napoli suit.

Funny this topic came up, im meeting with mina from napoli su misura later today and was going to ask if she could do a 3 piece. Guess that idea is scrapped.
 

edmorel

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Originally Posted by jeff13007
Funny this topic came up, im meeting with mina from napoli su misura later today and was going to ask if she could do a 3 piece. Guess that idea is scrapped.

don't go by me, I know nothing of 3 piece suits nor of what NSM is capable of. I am sure if you describe what you want, she can tell you whether or not it is something that she does.
 

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