A&S

mmkn · Jul 5, 2010

Originally Posted by Despos

Asking them to change is like asking a chef to change his recipe to match your tastes. You eat at restaurants that you like because of their cooking style, same with tailors.

So true.

I would add that one should also match oneself to the lay consumer's review as well.

For example, in the wine world, I have no idea sometimes what the hell Tanzer writes about or get his ratings from, but I am pretty well matched with Parker - despite both being up there as folks with lots of experience with wine.

On SF there are plenty of lay critics, making it sometimes difficult to tell the wheat from the chaff.

- M

Baron · Jul 5, 2010

I like Manton's jacket. I agree that the suppression could be relaxed a bit but it looks harmonious to me overall. The notion that it would be "ripped to shreds" if it were from another poster is a bit over the top. There are some serious train wrecks posted here from time to time and this isn't one of them.

whnay.'s jacket looks too full in the chest to me. I know that extra fabric is a hallmark of drape, but the very heavy cloth combined with the drape just under the armholes make the bulk look a bit unnatural in that photo. It could be his posture in the picture.

Manton · Jul 5, 2010

Originally Posted by Despos

This is an example of what Mahon refers to as a "crooked coat" more than a matter of balance. This is the DNA of an A&S jacket. Asking them to change is like asking a chef to change his recipe to match your tastes. You eat at restaurants that you like because of their cooking style, same with tailors.

I honestly do not see the issues you mention. But as for my suggestion, it was simply this. If it's true that they interpret "open the quarters" to mean "drop the fronts" then I want ask if they can simply NOT drop the fronts but leave them where they normally would and instead cut more of a swoop at the quarters. That should not be hard, and it asks them to change nothing about their system.

TheFoo · Jul 5, 2010

Originally Posted by Manton

I honestly do not see the issues you mention. But as for my suggestion, it was simply this. If it's true that they interpret "open the quarters" to mean "drop the fronts" then I want ask if they can simply NOT drop the fronts but leave them where they normally would and instead cut more of a swoop at the quarters. That should not be hard, and it asks them to change nothing about their system.
Also, I'm not so sure the splaying 'A' of the fronts is germane to them. Whnay's jackets don't exhibit that (not from the shoulder seam, at least), and I can't seem to recall seeing it on other A&S jackets posted online. It's a pretty distinctive effect. So, my guess is that you're right: they adjusted the balance to open the fronts. The jacket looked very different at your first fitting.

aizan · Jul 5, 2010

Originally Posted by Manton

FWIW, here is a picture of the only suit I ever took back because I thought it had too much waist. This is the before picture:

It wasn't so much the amount as the shape--the sharp, corset-like "pinch." The A&S suppression is much longer and looks better to me.

Here it is after:

I'm perfectly happy with it now. The stripes are straight, at least!

i think you're going a little too far with the waist suppression. it makes your hips look lumpy.

Manton · Jul 5, 2010

Did you read the comments?

TheTukker · Jul 5, 2010

Originally Posted by apropos

- I find foo's lack of objectivity in this and other threads where 'friends' are involved (vs where 'internet foes' are involved) somewhat... disappointing/amusing. IMO it discredits him as a source of authority as a clothing hobbyist, as a 'bespoke expert', or as an authority in anything tailoring-related. Which is a shame.

Originally Posted by lasbar

On Foo's lack of objectivity,i think it is the most amusing of his shortcomings...

I am not sure that I disagree that Foo's critique may have been softer here than in other places, but why does that matter? Striking a more gentle tone with friends than with others/non-friends is commonplace in real life and I am assuming SF is no different. Should the quality of his observations not just speak for themselves? Going beyond that - which both of you seem to be doing - gives him indeed a special, "bespoke expert" if you like, status. In other words, Foo should take your comments as some serious compliments. It's a shame that he does not; he really should.

TheFoo · Jul 5, 2010

Originally Posted by Manton

Did you read the comments?

Have you hit your head and forgotten where you are?

TheTukker · Jul 5, 2010

Originally Posted by Manton

FWIW, here is a picture of the only suit I ever took back because I thought it had too much waist. This is the before picture:

It wasn't so much the amount as the shape--the sharp, corset-like "pinch." The A&S suppression is much longer and looks better to me.

Here it is after:

I'm perfectly happy with it now. The stripes are straight, at least!

Great fix! Was there a lot of engineering involved?

Manton · Jul 5, 2010

I think he just let it out at the sides.

TheFoo · Jul 5, 2010

Originally Posted by lasbar

On Foo's lack of objectivity,i think it is the most amusing of his shortcomings...
My lack of objectivity? Ninety-percent of your posts are slobbering love letters to the popular members of the forum you feel the need to suck up to.

Originally Posted by Lonneker

I am not sure that I disagree that Foo's critique may have been softer here than in other places, but why does that matter? Striking a more gentle tone with friends than with others/non-friends is commonplace in real life and I am assuming SF is no different. Should the quality of his observations not just speak for themselves? Going beyond that - which both of you seem to be doing - gives him indeed a special, "bespoke expert" if you like, status. In other words, Foo should take your comments as some serious compliments. It's a shame that he does not; he really should.
I was "softer" on Manton's jacket because: (1) it isn't as bad as many of you are making it out to be, and (2) I can communicate much more efficiently with him. When we say "balance," for example, we mean the same thing. Unlike with many others, I don't have to go on and on justifying what I just said a moment ago, defining and re-defining words to clarify my thoughts while hecklers like apropos, Lasbar, or Wes Bourne, chime in to dispute what I "really" meant, which would, conveniently, prove that I'm a biased, snobby, know-nothing.

aizan · Jul 5, 2010

Originally Posted by Manton

Did you read the comments?

yes, and the hips still look lumpy after the "fix". it's not about the depth, but rather the line of the waist.

George · Jul 5, 2010

Bloody hell...

Manton · Jul 5, 2010

Originally Posted by aizan

yes, and the hips still look lumpy after the "fix". it's not about the depth, but rather the line of the waist.

Good grief.

alebrady · Jul 5, 2010

so, it may be in the pages and pages of nonsense here BUT...

manton, irrespective of if you disagree with Despos on this point, can you describe in layman's terms what a 'crooked coat' is - i would have guess it meant something generically like leaning to the left or right (i.e. 'crooked') but i suspect that is not the tailoring defintion that is in use here?

also, could you provide any more detail on how they achieved the more open quarters by altering the balance (i think you used the phrase 'drop the front') but i am not sure i know what this means? It seems there are at least two ways to get more open quarters - whatever way that A&S achieved it (which i am surmising did something to the balance of the coat) or to cut the fabric itself with more swoop below the BP - is this correct?

in a profile shot, would the bottom of your jacket not currently be parallel to the floor? i thought this was 'balance'.

thanks - just trying to extract a little education here

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