A&S

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Oct 30, 2009.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    So the main internet criticisms seem to be:

    1) They are inflexible.

    2) They don't pay attention, and they screw up your order or in some way don't give you what you asked for.

    3) They have changed their formula, dropping the armscye and button point.

    4) They always go straight to a forward fitting, and build in a ton of errors that can't be fixed.

    5) The make is worse that the average Savile Row dreck.

    6) They just suck.

    OK, well, anecdotally:

    1) I requested a number of specific things, nothing outside their comfort zone, but specific. They balked at none of it.

    2) I got everything I asked for, down to the last detail. Nothing left out, nothing added that I didn't ask for.

    3) The button point (marked with basting thread) was right where I wanted it, right on the natural waist. The armholes were as high as they could be and remain comfortable.

    4) Skeleton baste. Perfect balance. Screwy sleeve pitch on right side. Otherwise, perfect fit. I asked for the quarters to be opened up more. They happily chalked that. Also, all you people who insist that I wear all my coats too long, this was probably the shortest coat I have ever gotten.

    5) Quality of sewing is excellent. Not Rubinacci (or Solito) but very, very good. Handsewn intercollars, not just chest pieces. Marvellous buttonholes.

    6) Whatever.
     
  2. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    I don't feel like you properly rebutted the all important point six.

    Glad to hear the fitting went well.
     
  3. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    Pics or it didn't happen.
     
  4. M. Charles

    M. Charles Senior member

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    I don't really have a dog in this fight, but what do you think about this experience with A&S (silhouette #1). Not everyone who goes into A&S knows as much as you, and so what you get may vary.
     
  5. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    I don't really have a dog in this fight, but what do you think about this experience with A&S (silhouette #1). Not everyone who goes into A&S knows as much as you, and so what you get may vary.
    I actually don't think it is a bad coat at all, but it is a certain style of coat. Uppercase is quite knowledgeable, so that is not likely to have been a problem. I believe he likes the coat very much.
     
  6. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For the most part, the haters haven't been anywhere near the actual product, let alone commissioned it.
     
  7. kcc

    kcc Senior member

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    H0: 1-6 not supported in my experience
     
  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    UC's coat fits perfectly, but is cut a bit full. I didn't want mine to be that roomy overall, I just wanted the soft shoulder and the drape, which I got. It looks similar in some respects, but different in others, leaner overall. Also, it could be the camera angle, but his looks a lot longer relative to his frame than mine.
     
  9. M. Charles

    M. Charles Senior member

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    I actually don't think it is a bad coat at all, but it is a certain style of coat. Uppercase is quite knowledgeable, so that is not likely to have been a problem. I believe he likes the coat very much.
    If you read his comments several pages later, it seems he's not fully satisfied with the experience. He makes several of the complaints Manton lists, although, yes, he also says he's happy with it in the context of what he uses it for. Perhaps he would amend the critical comments now, I don't know. I know A&S sometimes extends the shoulders, but I would not be comfortable with that much extension. He says there was no fitting at all, so I don't think we can chalk this up entirely to A&S style. Just to be clear. I'm not an A&S hater at all. Like I said, I have no dog in this fight.
     
  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Hitchcock actually chalked my shoulders in a bit on each side. They looked fine to me at first glance, but he thought they could lose a smidge.
     
  11. M. Charles

    M. Charles Senior member

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    Hitchcock actually chalked my shoulders in a bit on each side. They looked fine to me at first glance, but he thought they could lose a smidge.

    How far will they be extended past your actual shoulder? Will mentioned that several (if not all??) of his A&S jackets have shoulders that extend past his actual shoulder.

    I'm sure A&S knows what it's doing, but jackets I've had with an extended shoulder tend to bulge much more easily when I lean over, losing the clean line of the shoulder.

    I mention this because I'm very likely going to try A&S in the next few months, not because I don't like what I've seen in general. That said, I have seen a few posts that worry me a bit. There was another post on LL with 3 suits, one of which was A&S, and the general consensus seemed to be that it was rather poorly executed. I'll try to find the link .
     
  12. Xiaogou

    Xiaogou Senior member

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    For the most part, the haters haven't been anywhere near the actual product, let alone commissioned it.

    TRUTH.
     
  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know how far past they were; under 1/2", because I can easily notice that much, and these I did not notice.
     
  14. M. Charles

    M. Charles Senior member

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    I don't know how far past they were; under 1/2", because I can easily notice that much, and these I did not notice.

    That's heartening. I don't think I would like the feel of more than that.

    Am I correct in thinking that a slightly extended shoulder is a necessary part of achieving the drape? That has been opined here and elsewhere, but is it true? It makes sense, but...

    I should also state that I am not a current A&S customer, although I plan to place my first order within a few months. I have seen their work on several clients firsthand, however.
     
  15. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Am I correct in thinking that a slightly extended shoulder is a necessary part of achieving the drape? That has been opined here and elsewhere, but is it true? It makes sense, but...

    It is not strictly necessary, but they often go together.
     

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