Where to buy box calf in England?

supershoefan · Feb 16, 2010

I heard the best calf is called box calf and Freudenburg was the best company to do box calf but after it finished its tannery production in 2002, who are still making box calf and where can I find them in England? Anyone can help?

MyOtherLife · Feb 16, 2010

Originally Posted by supershoefan

I heard the best calf is called box calf and Freudenburg was the best company to do box calf but after it finished its tannery production in 2002, who are still making box calf and where can I find them in England? Anyone can help?
I am in North America so can't answer the question of suppliers in your area, however, 'Box Calf', if memory serves, is leather produced by, what is called 'Chromium Tanning', which uses harsh and hazardous chemicals to tan hides in days as opposed to 'Vegetable Tanning' Vegetable Tanning is a safer and natural method that takes months for the tanning process to complete. It is to my understanding that vegetable tanned hides are the preferred choice for high end shoes, and leather goods. I may be wrong but 'Box Calf' is almost always corrected grain and therefore not the best. What would be your intended use of the leather you are seeking a supplier for?

apropos · Feb 16, 2010

Isn't box calf corrected grain?

EDIT: I may have confused 'box calf' with 'calvary calf'.

Tomasso · Feb 16, 2010

Box calf is a premium leather used by the top makers.

rs232 · Feb 16, 2010

No, box calf is full grain, named back in the day due to the grain shape formed by the tanning process. These days it just seems to be used to describe full grain, fine, shiney calf.

bengal-stripe · Feb 16, 2010

When Freudenberg tannery stopped production (early 2000s) parts of the management bought the right to produce leathers in the "Freudenberg method" and set up "Weinheimer Leder"

http://weinheimer-leder.com/weinheimerleder/index.html

The leather gets tanned in Poland according to the Weinheimer (Freudenberg) specifications. Some people in the trade think Weinheim is just as good as Freudenberg used to be, others think it's not quite as good. More often than not, they still talk about using Freudenberg, when strictly speaking it's Weinheim.

If you're in the UK, go to A & A Crack in Northampton, they stock Weinheim/Freudenberg:

http://www.aacrack.com/?a=uk

Crack will sell you a single hide. They even have a pile with reduced remnants. Particular if you are flexible about the colour, you should find a bargain.

supershoefan · Feb 16, 2010

Originally Posted by Man Of Lint

I am in North America so can't answer the question of suppliers in your area,
however, 'Box Calf', if memory serves, is leather produced by, what is called 'Chromium Tanning',
which uses harsh and hazardous chemicals to tan hides in days as opposed to 'Vegetable Tanning'
Vegetable Tanning is a safer and natural method that takes months for the tanning process to complete.
It is to my understanding that vegetable tanned hides are the preferred choice for high end shoes, and leather goods.
I may be wrong but 'Box Calf' is almost always corrected grain and therefore not the best.
What would be your intended use of the leather you are seeking a supplier for?

I am not sure whether box calf is made by Chromium tanning, but it seems to be corrected grain to me. I want to use the claf to make shoes.
Why do high end shoemakers use corrected grain leather to make expensive shoes? I think guys here don't like correted grain leather. But they do look more polished and shining.
Can anyone direct me to a good supplier of calf?

supershoefan · Feb 16, 2010

Originally Posted by rs232

No, box calf is full grain, named back in the day due to the grain shape formed by the tanning process. These days it just seems to be used to describe full grain, fine, shiney calf.

I saw the Freudenburg calf used by JL and I think that is corrected grain coz no hair holes can be seen and the surface should have been grazed. Are you sure that's full grain??

Groover · Feb 16, 2010

I doubt very much the box calf is corrected, certainly the box calf I've seen isn't.

Generally speaking corrected grain has a high shine finish (finish applied to the skin) or can have a pattern imprinted on it.

supershoefan · Feb 16, 2010

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

When Freudenberg tannery stopped production (early 2000s) parts of the management bought the right to produce leathers in the "Freudenberg method" and set up "Weinheimer Leder"

http://weinheimer-leder.com/weinheimerleder/index.html

The leather gets tanned in Poland according to the Weinheimer (Freudenberg) specifications. Some people in the trade think Weinheim is just as good as Freudenberg used to be, others think it's not quite as good. More often than not, they still talk about using Freudenberg, when strictly speaking it's Weinheim.

If you're in the UK, go to A & A Crack in Northampton, they stock Weinheim/Freudenberg:

http://www.aacrack.com/?a=uk

Crack will sell you a single hide. They even have a pile with reduced remnants. Particular if you are flexible about the colour, you should find a bargain.

Thank you, these are very helpful info!

bengal-stripe · Feb 16, 2010

Originally Posted by supershoefan

I am not sure whether box calf is made by Chromium tanning, but it seems to be corrected grain to me.

Box calf is a chrome tanned, full-grain, aniline-dyed leather (it is not corrected grain).

Chrome tanning produces soft leathers which drape well, suitable for shoe uppers or upholstery, while vegetal tanning produces stiff leathers for cases, bridle work or shoe bottoms (soles).

That's the rule, there are a few exceptions.

supershoefan · Feb 16, 2010

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

Box calf is a chrome tanned, full-grain, aniline-dyed leather (it is not corrected grain).

Chrome tanning produces soft leathers which drape well, suitable for shoe uppers or upholstery, while vegetal tanning produces stiff leathers for cases, bridle work or shoe bottoms (soles).

That's the rule, there are a few exceptions.

If it is not corrected grain, why I didn't see any hair holes on JL's leather samples? Were their surfaces covered with an overthick layer of dye?

bengal-stripe · Feb 16, 2010

Originally Posted by supershoefan

If it is not corrected grain, why I didn't see any hair holes on JL's leather samples? Were their surfaces covered with an overthick layer of dye?

In the best qualities the leather comes from very young animals, so the grain is very fine. Use a magnifying glass, and you will see the pores.

The leather is aniline dyed (in a bath of dye) not surface dyed with a spray gun and many coats. Sometimes box calf is "rolled", they use glass rollers and pressure to give it extra sheen. That still doesn't make it corrected grain.

I think, strictly speaking, box calf comes only in black.

Wrigglez · Feb 16, 2010

BS is allways a wealth of information, thanks BS.

Cary Grant · Feb 16, 2010

Bengal-

As always, thanks for your expertise here.

Where to buy box calf in England?

Member

Distinguished Member

Distinguished Member

Distinguished Member

Senior Member

Distinguished Member

Member

Member

Senior Member

Member

Distinguished Member

Member

Distinguished Member

Senior Member

Distinguished Member

Classic Menswear Featured products

Similar threads

Featured Sponsor

Yes, I have a signature fragrance I wear every day

Yes, I have a signature fragrance but I don't wear it daily

No, I have several fragrances and rotate through them

I don't wear fragrance

Forum Sponsors

Forum statistics

FOLLOW STYLEFORUM ON: