New Chan stuff (pics)

Originally Posted by Svenn

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^Do you have any further sources for pictures of higher collars like in that pic? I've tried searching for 'Edwardian' collars and randomly looking through pics from the 1900's/1910's, but it's hit and miss... was any designer known for that style at the time?

Just google Tom Wolfe.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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I agree with Greg: there's nothing wrong with shoulders that are less square and the shoulder line here looks pretty good to me. However, I would go with a slightly longer length, open the quarters, and, of course, fix the divets.

Sir, I think your idea of balance is off. The guy is 5'4" with a 16" neck. A higher shoulder and higher collar(because his neck is pretty long relative to the his body) would make the coat longer and make the appearance of the coat longer as well without shorting the legs as a longer coat would do. Everything else is correct.

In the pictures (don't know if it's the angle), it already looks as if the top half is disproportionately long compared to the bottom, so I wonder if lengthening the jacket wouldn't be a mistake. Seems like the more open quarters that have been mentioned would help with proportion more than lengthening. I also wonder if maybe shortening and slimming/tapering the pants a little might balance things out better.

Originally Posted by HitMan009

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Sir, I think your idea of balance is off. The guy is 5'4" with a 16" neck. A higher shoulder and higher collar(because his neck is pretty long relative to the his body) would make the coat longer and make the appearance of the coat longer as well without shorting the legs as a longer coat would do. Everything else is correct.

First of all, I'm not entirely clear what you mean by "balance." Second, a higher collar will only make his shoulders look even more dramatically sloped: while I am not one to believe in ideal form or the need to correct idiosyncracies, I don't see why you'd want to exaggerate what is already very strongly expressed. Anyway, I'm not proposing addng much length, only a little (say, a centimeter). More open quarters will mitigate against any shortening of his legs and a longer length will better complement his sloped shoulders--better to be a long triangle than a short one.

Also, some shoulder extension might work well.

Originally Posted by texas_jack

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I recommend they build up your shoulder a little bit. They are too sloped.

My first thought as well. The shoulders definitely need more padding. These jackets look nothing like those Chan has created for me.

Absolutely no need for padding here.

I won't go wild on padding. I personally think a more natural shoulder (and shoulder line) looks good on guys with developed traps. I would, however, try to work on the sleeve/sleevehead of the gray suit.

The fabric practically screams out that you are a sanitation worker wearing your Sunday best.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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First of all, I'm not entirely clear what you mean by "balance." Second, a higher collar will only make his shoulders look even more dramatically sloped: while I am not one to believe in ideal form or the need to correct idiosyncracies, I don't see why you'd want to exaggerate what is already very strongly expressed. Anyway, I'm not proposing addng much length, only a little (say, a centimeter). More open quarters will mitigate against any shortening of his legs and a longer length will better complement his sloped shoulders--better to be a long triangle than a short one.

Also, some shoulder extension might work well.

A centimeter? You gathered he needs a centimeter of length, which will make a difference, from that grainy, ****** picture?

Originally Posted by S. Able

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I won't go wild on padding. I personally think a more natural shoulder (and shoulder line) looks good on guys with developed traps. I would, however, try to work on the sleeve/sleevehead of the gray suit.

"Developed traps," eh? Those jackets make the guy look like a damn pear! No jacket should make a guy look like a pear, least of all a physique man! I just saw Schwarzenegger in a suit on the Jay Leno show last night. He sure didn't look like a pear!

FWIW, I have performed countless upright rows and power cleans and a lesser number of shrugs and deadlifts over the years and have pretty well developed traps myself.

Originally Posted by JLibourel

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"Developed traps," eh? Those jackets make the guy look like a damn pear! No jacket should make a guy look like a pear, least of all a physique man! I just saw Schwarzenegger in a suit on the Jay Leno show last night. He sure didn't look like a pear!
Exactly, shoulder padding will do the guy a lot of justice along with a slighter higher collar for the guy along with a bit more supression at the waist, narrower flare on the skirt and more open quarters. The whole point is the coat should create an upward feel and this coat right now has a downward feel. Upward meaning it draws the eyes up.

Originally Posted by lee_44106

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Somehow the jackets just don't flatter you.

Absolutely. This is the key thing to take away from the thread.

The details of WHY are going to be harder to work out. I suspect it is indeed a combination of what others have suggested - a shade too short, a shade too closed, and something about the lapel shape. It also seems a little flat/lifeless.

The shoulders aren't really the issue, that's more a personal preference. My preference would probably be a touch more structure (without any extension) but this isn't why the jackets aren't flattering you in my opinion.

The best solution is to ask a tailor (but one with an eye for style) to take a look at the jacket and see what they recommend in terms of changes.

Alternatively, get out some pins yourself and start making changes and see how it looks in the mirror. This is a very rough-and-ready way of thinking out what needs to change but it's pretty useful when you're not quite sure what's wrong. Just squint a little when doing it so you can concentrate on the overall silhouette & proportions rather than sweating tiny details.

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

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A centimeter? You gathered he needs a centimeter of length, which will make a difference, from that grainy, ****** picture?

Yes. There's no need to project your own unrefined eye for detail onto others.



1. Shoulders extended (about 1.5 centimeters, each side)
2. Hem lengthened (about 1 centimeter)
3. Quarters opened.
4. Trousers re-shaped and shortened.

That's at least 2 cm, maybe 2.5. My eye may be unrefined, but it has a better view of things from up here.

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

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That's at least 2 cm, maybe 2.5. My eye may be unrefined, but it has a better view of things from up here.

Nope, it's definitely about a centimeter. The difference in length between versions is about the width of his thumb knuckle. Yes, I checked.