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Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review

chocobo

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You are incorrect, as was pointed out above.

Sorry, I should have been clear that I was referring only to the standard "1000 Mile", which are all made of that leather. The many variations and special editions, etc. can use other leathers.
 

OlafG

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I have a pair of 1000 miles in 11 EEE and they are a tiny bit big after breaking in, but I like them that way. They are pretty comfortable with boot socks for all day wear.


Looking to score a pair of 721s. Would 12D work?
 

wdahab

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I have a pair of 1000 miles in 11 EEE and they are a tiny bit big after breaking in, but I like them that way. They are pretty comfortable with boot socks for all day wear.


Looking to score a pair of 721s. Would 12D work?


Honestly, with 721s, you might have to take what you can get at this point. They are super-rare, I don't see them coming up very often, if at all, and almost never in new condition.

That said, 12D would probably work fine, but 11.5 as well. I would jump on whatever you see between 11 and 12, really, and sell them if they don't work for you. I wear 9EEE-9.5EEE in most AE shoes, but find boots fit me a bit too big in wide sizes, since my foot always slides up against the toe when I go wide.

So 9D or 9.5D W1K's work best for me. I got 9D 721/744s and perhaps I'd have gone with a 9.5D if I could do it again, but they fit fine with thinner socks.
 

sthomas26

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Is there an easy way to tell if boots are factory seconds? Are they marked ?

Also, anyone have suggestions on a pair of shoe trees? Not sure if I should be buying shoe trees or boot trees for these.
 

leetpuma

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Hey so guys I broke something....

Long story short the plastic toebox "broke" on my shoe and the plastic is now poking my foot (a sharp plastic piece about as thick as packing plastic). (Dropped something very heavy on it...) (Also the leather is fine. Its just the plastic under it)
Now I want to try and remove the whole plastic piece from the shoe.... Has anyone encountered this or know if I can pry this piece loose without messing up the sole. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
(The plastic toebox hides behind an cloth liner which is now ripped on my shoe. I don't care about the liner... I just want to know if the plastic is attached to the sole and stitching.)
 
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leetpuma

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Well I would like to keep my cost low. Plus I have an way to work around it for now... But If the dam toe cap is possible to remove that would by far be the best possible course that could happen. I was hoping someone here may have taken apart their shoes and may know.

Also thanks for your reply all/any help is appreciated
 
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milw50717

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Is there an easy way to tell if boots are factory seconds?  Are they marked ?


I asked about this earlier - http://www.styleforum.net/t/163864/wolverine-1000-mile-boot-review/3885#post_6621937

Also, anyone have suggestions on a pair of shoe trees?  Not sure if I should be buying shoe trees or boot trees for these.


Shoe trees should suffice.

Boot trees (not shapers) tend to be pretty much the same thing as shoe trees. Some boot trees have features for specific needs - pointed and curved toes for cowboy boot - but these are not necessary for the 1K boots.

Personally, I use trees in my better shoes, but don't bother with them for my boots. My boots all tend to be work boots rather than dress boots.Haven't had an issue yet,
 
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milw50717

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Take it to a cobbler and ask for their recommendation?


+1.

First time I have ever heard of this type of damage to a boot and I have to think that doing a proper repair from inside of the boot will not be an easy task. Simply ripping it out could leave some parts left inside, which could injure the foot.

Maybe drop Wolverine an email to enquire about the construction details.
 

allday

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I ordered 2 pairs of Wolverine 1k Mile boots in size 9 and 8.5. I normally wear size 9.5 on vans and sneakers and I wear size 9 on other shoes such as chucks and Palladium Boots.
I was recommended Costco Kirkland Merino Wool Hiking Socks and so I bought them and they are very comfortable so I plan on wearing them with my boots. If I wear thinner socks with either size I feel they are uncomfortable.
That being said I have a problem with my Wolverine boots:
Size 9 seems to be slightly too long with slight heel slippage with a lot of toe room, enough to wiggle up and down without touching the top. My foot is still secure to the point where it's not slipping everywhere but I do notice the extra space.
Size 8.5 seems about right but the bottom of the tongue digs into the top of my toes and the sides seem to be a bit too snug and poke the corner of my feet to the point after 30 minutes of wear it feels like my feet need to breathe. There's just enough toe room but I can't wiggle freely as much I can with the size 9's.
So my question: Have any of you experienced this with these boots? Could I reasonably expect the snug areas to stretch out enough to be comfortable after a couple weeks of wear? Or should I keep the size 9's and be safe with the extra room and maybe buy something to insert inside?
 

Mr M

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Wolverine advised me to go half size down from normal shoe size. My boots are perfectly fitted for my feet. I can go TTS and still wear it comfortably with or without socks. I think it depends on the shape of your feet. I'm a normal D shape.
 

milw50717

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So my question: Have any of you experienced this with these boots? Could I reasonably expect the snug areas to stretch out enough to be comfortable after a couple weeks of wear? Or should I keep the size 9's and be safe with the extra room and maybe buy something to insert inside?
Better slightly too large than too small. (Some) heel slippage and toe wiggle room is OK. You can adjust using socks and/or insoles, heel, cups, etc.
 
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allday

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After wearing them for a couple hours I've gotten used to the 8.5's but my main concern is if this part of the boot eventually stretches out so it stops digging into the top of my toe's when I bend to walk. I uploaded a pic to show what I'm describing.
 
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