WK OF FEB 16, 2015: NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR

[Murlsquirl]

New SF member and not sure where to find the answer you're looking for? Have a quick question that doesn't belong in a current thread? Welcome, you found the right place.

This is the first installment of a weekly thread where new and old users alike can ask a quick question and get a solid answer. If a thread already exists that would be more helpful, we will point you in the right direction. The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked.....so ask away!

 

[Caustic Man]

Question about overcoat length:

As loathsome as it is, I will soon be making a move into a colder clime. I have seen plenty of overcoats out there, some cutting off above the knee, some below, others in between. Is there a general idea of how long an overcoat should be?

 

[Adesnik]

For my first post, I would like to tack on some related overcoat questions. Is there a substantial difference in the warmth of different overcoat materials, such as wool vs. cashmere vs. camel hair vs. other? Is thickness, weight, or some other attribute of a coat the best indicator of how warm it will be? Do linings make a difference? I've generally found that my coats are not as warm as I would like once the temperature gets below 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Before I switch to a down parka, I'd like to know if there are other options.

Also, with my apologies to the previous poster, the first quote in your signature is mis-attributed. The 19th century British author and soldier Sir William Francis Butler actually said "The nation that will insist on drawing a broad line of demarcation between the fighting man and the thinking man is liable to find its fighting done by fools and its thinking done by cowards." This is actually a very common error, so much so that Wikiquote's page on Thucydides includes a warning, along with a link to the correct source.

 

[Caustic Man]

Fixed.

 

[Academic2]

Question about overcoat length:

As loathsome as it is, I will soon be making a move into a colder clime. I have seen plenty of overcoats out there, some cutting off above the knee, some below, others in between. Is there a general idea of how long an overcoat should be?

Traditionally, if worn over a suit it should come down to below the knee. Personally, I'd say the same for a sport coat if dressy enough to wear with a tie.

Cheers,

Ac

 

[Caustic Man]

Much obliged.

 

[Murlsquirl]

For my first post, I would like to tack on some related overcoat questions. Is there a substantial difference in the warmth of different overcoat materials, such as wool vs. cashmere vs. camel hair vs. other? Is thickness, weight, or some other attribute of a coat the best indicator of how warm it will be? Do linings make a difference? I've generally found that my coats are not as warm as I would like once the temperature gets below 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Before I switch to a down parka, I'd like to know if there are other options.

Also, with my apologies to the previous poster, the first quote in your signature is mis-attributed. The 19th century British author and soldier Sir William Francis Butler actually said "The nation that will insist on drawing a broad line of demarcation between the fighting man and the thinking man is liable to find its fighting done by fools and its thinking done by cowards." This is actually a very common error, so much so that Wikiquote's page on Thucydides includes a warning, along with a link to the correct source.

Hey adesnik, welcome to the forum. I'm glad you found this thread. Cashmere is regarded as the warmest of wools. A good indicator of warmth is the weight of the fabric...a 20oz coat will be warmer than a 15oz coat and of course you would want it fully lined. I'm no expert in different lining types so I will have to let someone else weigh in there. That's about all the advice a guy from California can offer on overcoats.....we don't need them here! Hopefully someone with more experience will chime in with some additional info. Best of luck!

 

[LA Guy]

For my first post, I would like to tack on some related overcoat questions. Is there a substantial difference in the warmth of different overcoat materials, such as wool vs. cashmere vs. camel hair vs. other? Is thickness, weight, or some other attribute of a coat the best indicator of how warm it will be? Do linings make a difference? I've generally found that my coats are not as warm as I would like once the temperature gets below 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Before I switch to a down parka, I'd like to know if there are other options.

Also, with my apologies to the previous poster, the first quote in your signature is mis-attributed. The 19th century British author and soldier Sir William Francis Butler actually said "The nation that will insist on drawing a broad line of demarcation between the fighting man and the thinking man is liable to find its fighting done by fools and its thinking done by cowards." This is actually a very common error, so much so that Wikiquote's page on Thucydides includes a warning, along with a link to the correct source.

Hi,

Welcome, again. I'm one of the owners here, and the manager of this joint. I grew up in Canada, so I know about the need for warm clothes. Yes, linings with loft matter. The reason for this is that while the outer layer breaks the wind, it is the loft which traps the warm air and keeps you warm.

There are a lot of wool coats that have quilted lining, often removable. Otherwise, simply buy a lightweight, lightly quilted vest (imo, both Mackintosh and Lavenham make good ones), and wear it under your coat. That should solve your problem.

Cheers,

Fok.

 

[Caustic Man]

simply buy a lightweight, lightly quilted vest

I think it may be time to pull out the old Field Jacket Liner...

 

[Cleav]

@Caustic Man Ac is right, over a suit, always covering the knee for me. You'll see shorter and longer but the knee is a good rule of thumb (!)

@Adesnik I normally wear a suit so when the temp drops I may go for an overcoat, but the key is which one. Fok's quite right in that how it is lined is important, so consider that when you make your choice. Often a removable lining is ideal for the quandary as to which overcoat to choose...

You have to take into consideration the overall environment. If it's colder I typically wear heavier suits so a Crombie style overcoat can make me very warm where a Macintosh provides an extra layer and shower proof to boot. That, considered with where we are going and what we are doing make for important choices. If I have meetings in town the Tube can be very warm regardless of the time of year and I don't want to look like I'm cooking in my overcoat, especially as i'm only over ground momentarily. If I'm at a sporting event where I'm likely to be sat outside, at the Football (soccer) or a day at the Races then a Mac won't do. A Crombie style is the only way

BTW, great question and welcome.

EDIT: Forgot to send you here, some good stuff!

http://www.styleforum.net/t/280789/getting-an-overcoat-made

 

[Murlsquirl]

Thanks for the assist my frozen friends. Sometimes it drops below 50(f) here and I have to break out my lightweight flannels!

 

[Caustic Man]

Thanks for the advice, all. Like Murl, I am a California native and, other than a brief stint in Alaska in my younger years, have always lived relatively warm climates. Winters in Louisville have been cold the last two years, but Chicago is in my future and will surely be on another level. Here's to hating life!

 

[Cleav]

I hear they call it the Windy City, amirite? Try and hunt out @Coxsackie fur lined for a starter (beauty) and build the layers!

Cold or warm, live it man!

 

[Caustic Man]

I hear they call it the Windy City, amirite?

Yes, although supposedly it got that name because of all the blowhard politicians!

 

[Coxsackie]

I hear they call it the Windy City, amirite? Try and hunt out @Coxsackie fur lined for a starter (beauty) and build the layers!

Oh yeah. 20+oz Harris Tweed on the outside, musquash fur on the inside. I'm breaking into a sweat just thinking about it.