Widening the shoulders on a suit

[johnnynorman3]

Someone asked me the other day whether it is possible to take the shoulders out on a suit. I said this might be possible but it seems like it would take more than letting out the center seam. Any comments would be appreciated.

 

[Manton]

I would love to hear Len's response to this.

Based on what I know, I would say that this is impossible. The key measurements are the backneck, and the length of the shoulder seam. You can let out the backseam all you want (provided there is cloth in there) but that will not change these other two measurements. It will just make the back of the coat more roomy.

The fundamental problems: There is no excess cloth at end of the shoulder, at the sleevehead; you can't move the armhole; you'd have to take the coat apart and put in a whole new pad and superstructure.

Even if it could be done, this is a classic no-go alteration. Find a better fitting suit.

 

[johnnynorman3]

That was my response. My sense was that maybe you could remove the collar and then hope there is excess cloth where the "yoke" met the collar (I know there is not actual "yoke" on the jacket). That might change the angle of the shoulder seem, essentially widening it. But this sounds like impossible at worst, VERY expensive and dangerous at best.

How do tailors narrow shoulders? Is that a center seam operation or do they do this at the sleeve head?

 

[Manton]

The better way is to do it at the sleevehead.  It's harder, but preserves the balance and symetry of the coat.  Basicially, yanking on the backseam a lot just pulls the shoulders backward and pulls the coat front open.

 

[stache]

In the past I have taken shoulder pads out which can give you a little room.

 

[Darren Beaman]

you can make the shoulder wider on most bespoke jackets, as most tailor will leave inlay regards Darren www.savile-row.com

 

[jrd617]

Bumping a thread from the George W. Bush administration

My question pertains to the shoulders on a new Borrelli suit that is perfect in every way... except for the shoulders that seem to run much narrower than on most 40R suits. They are 17.75 inches across, rather than the expected 18.25+ inches. This could be just because there is not a single bit of padding in the shoulders. Completely unconstructed. Borrelli might have intentionally cut them narrower because of this.

The thing is that the shoulders still feel snug when I move my arms in a normal range of motion. My alterations tailor (a very good one senior members talk about here) says the jacket looks very good on me (slim, but good), but it still feels constricting. I'm used to jackets with a bit of extended shoulder, and these ones are cut razor short (as close as you can get).

He said something today about possibly letting out one of the seams... either back seam or side shoulders seam to give me more room and widen the shoulders.

But looking at this thread, this seems to be impossible. See the pictures I took below. Is what he is suggesting feasible? Maybe he is just talking about giving me more room in the back, rather than widening the shoulder measurement itself?

Back seam has ~1.0 inches of material folded into it, possibly more. The side (shoulder?) seam has 1.5 inches.

Would appreciate some insight. @Despos @a tailor @jefferyd. (I'm not in Chicago sadly!)

 

[jrd617]

I’m visualizing it this way: letting out the back seam would result in an apparent widening of the shoulder seam to seam measurement. BUT, there wouldn’t be a corresponding change at the front of the jacket and this could result in odd proportionality/balance. Am I missing anything here?

Also to contradict the original posts, this article says few jackets have the extra material, but when they do, the widening operation is possible. Luckily it seems my borrelli has such material.

https://www.articlesofstyle.com/articles/post/57994

 

[jefferyd]

You are right that the shoulder needs to be cut narrower when you take some of the structure out. As long as you have an inlay at the neck, you could let out the center back seam. He may also be talking about letting out the side seam which would give you a bit more forward reach. Depends on where exactly you feel it constricting.

 

[Despos]

Try this using two straight pins. Lift the collar and place a pin, parallel with the center seam, taking in (reducing) the cloth 1/4" on each side of the seam just below the under collar felt. Go downwards towards the waist about 1.5" and place another pin taking in the cloth half that amount. 1/8". Try the jacket on with the pins in place and see if you have better movement.