Who came up with unstructured jackets?

[VRaivio]

My search on SF didn't come up with a detailed answer. I've read elsewhere that Ralph Lauren came up with unstructured (as in no shoulder padding or chest canvas) tailored jackets, another source mentioned Naples' very own Attolini. Italy seems most likely, given their climate, but someone must know a source or two.

 

[Ivar]

Armani is often credited with this.

 

[Nicola]

My guess is you're starting backwards.

Who started adding structure to jackets? I doubt the removal came first

 

[VRaivio]

My bad, should have been clearer. What I meant to ask: who came up with the idea of removing canvas and padding after so many years of them being the norm?

 

[VinnyMac]

My guess is you're starting backwards.
Who started adding structure to jackets? I doubt the removal came first

Bingo.

 

[jefferyd]



My search on SF didn't come up with a detailed answer. I've read elsewhere that Ralph Lauren came up with unstructured (as in no shoulder padding or chest canvas) tailored jackets, another source mentioned Naples' very own Attolini. Italy seems most likely, given their climate, but someone must know a source or two.

While pretty much everybody was looking to copy what was being done on Savile Row at the turn of the 20th century, the Italians copied certain elements from the British and kept others from their own tradition. Domenico Caraceni of Rome wrote a treatise on his "new style" of soft tailoring in 1933, and is thought by many to be the father of Italian tailoring. Rubinacci hired Vincenzo Attolini (who was working for Caraceni) in the 1930s, who then "invented" the soft Neapolitan-style jacket, though he was clearly inspired and influenced by Caraceni's work.

 

[jefferyd]



My guess is you're starting backwards.
Who started adding structure to jackets? I doubt the removal came first

Men's dress prior to the lounge suit was far more structured by comparison- the suit as we know it is the deconstructed and looser version of what men had been wearing previously.

 

[VRaivio]

Many thanks, jefferyd! Caraceni must have been influenced by someone, this chain may lead backwards yet more.