Upgrading My Suit, Need Help With Questions/Options!

[king_of_cups]

CONTEXT: I've filled out all the necessary starter items in my wardrobe, and now that I've got my bases covered, I'm starting the process of swapping/upgrading my (small) suit collection, starting with my charcoal "first" suit -- aka, the one you wear to weddings/funerals/interviews/evening events. I was hoping people could answer some questions about options/customizations for this sort of suit:

1. I'm looking at getting a full suit from Collaro. I've had a lot of success with their shirts and trousers for years, but this would be the first time I've bought a jacket with them. I can't seem to find anyone who's bought a jacket from them -- can anyone vouch for them/tell me what to expect? If anyone has other recommendations in the $1200 MTM range, I'm all ears.
2. I live in the desert (Palm Springs-ish, CA), which means that it's hot almost all year, and I also tend to run hot regardless of the temperature outside. I was under the impression that things like half-linings and skipping the padding are for more casual suits -- am I wrong on this? What about something like full-canvas vs half-canvas? I'm not opposed to softer tailoring, but I want to make sure that I'm building the right suit for its use cases!
3. Are there details that I should avoid for more formal suits? I'm not 22 anymore, so I don't feel the need to have contrast buttonholes or neon paisley linings and stuff, but what about things like shirring on the shoulders? Are construction details like this just a matter of taste, or are there some things I'll need to avoid?
4. I feel like the fact that I can't get a waistcoat with this suit (Collaro doesn't make them at all) is a big minus, but honestly, I don't wear suits that often (people in my industry -- K-12 education -- get itchy when I wear a sport coat, let alone a full suit), so I have even fewer opportunities to wear one. Should getting a waistcoat be an absolute must for this kind of suit, considering that it'd be purely for flair (especially since I live in the desert, surrounded by people who never dress up)?

 

[dieworkwear]

I'm looking at getting a full suit from Collaro. I've had a lot of success with their shirts and trousers for years, but this would be the first time I've bought a jacket with them. I can't seem to find anyone who's bought a jacket from them -- can anyone vouch for them/tell me what to expect? If anyone has other recommendations in the $1200 MTM range, I'm all ears.

Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with Collaro, so I can't speak about their work. Will leave that to someone here who has experience with them.

Regarding MTM in the $1,200 price range, here are some options:

1. I believe Spier & Mackay has a MTM program, so long as you're comfortable ordering things with remote fittings. A few friends of mine have used them and have had good results. However, since you're doing this remotely, you should expect the first suit or two to be "throwaways." Without the help of an in-person fitter, it can take a while to nail down your fit. This is an easier process if you're very close to the company's block pattern.

2. Hall & Maddan also does fairly affordable MTM. A friend of mine works for them and I think he does a good job at fitting people. I don't know if they visit Palm Springs, but they are a traveling operation.

3. Divij Bespoke (formerly known as MyTailor). This is another traveling operation. I don't know if they visit Palm Springs, but they make nice and affordable custom suits. I believe their prices may be just a little higher than your budget, but within reason. Call to ask.

I live in the desert (Palm Springs-ish, CA), which means that it's hot almost all year, and I also tend to run hot regardless of the temperature outside. I was under the impression that things like half-linings and skipping the padding are for more casual suits -- am I wrong on this? What about something like full-canvas vs half-canvas? I'm not opposed to softer tailoring, but I want to make sure that I'm building the right suit for its use cases!

You are correct. Generally speaking, a softer, unconstructed silhouette will look more casual than a very structured one. Historically, military tailoring (e.g. Gieves & Hawkes) was very built up, whereas civilian tailoring (e.g. Anderson & Sheppard) was very soft. This is where the distinction between formal and casual comes from.

However, this distinction is typically more about the amount of padding that goes into the shoulder line. There are different things that go into a suit: canvas (usually extending from the shoulder to the hem), haircloth (a more robust material used to give the chest shape), domette (a felt-like substance to prevent the prickly haircloth from poking through), and shoulder padding (what goes into the shoulder to build it up). And, of course, the stitching and the outside shell.

When people talk about structured versus soft suits, they are typically talking about the shoulder padding. High-end suits and sport coats tend to be made with a full canvas because you need something to give the outershell some weight and shape. When companies do a half-canvas, they are extending the canvas just from the shoulder line to about the buttoning point. This is typically a cost-saving measure.

For life in Palm Springs, you will want a very unconstructed suit because it will wear a little cooler. This will end up looking a little more casual, but that suits most people's lifestyles anyway. This will still mean a fully canvassed or half-canvassed suit. It will just not have the heavy shoulder padding that goes into the shoulder, and possibly not the domette (or maybe it's a thinner domette).

Are there details that I should avoid for more formal suits? I'm not 22 anymore, so I don't feel the need to have contrast buttonholes or neon paisley linings and stuff, but what about things like shirring on the shoulders? Are construction details like this just a matter of taste, or are there some things I'll need to avoid?

Lots of things to avoid, but it would be easier if you listed the configuration you're thinking about, and seek feedback.

I feel like the fact that I can't get a waistcoat with this suit (Collaro doesn't make them at all) is a big minus, but honestly, I don't wear suits that often (people in my industry -- K-12 education -- get itchy when I wear a sport coat, let alone a full suit), so I have even fewer opportunities to wear one. Should getting a waistcoat be an absolute must for this kind of suit, considering that it'd be purely for flair (especially since I live in the desert, surrounded by people who never dress up)?

No, you do not need to wear a waistcoat with a suit. None of my suits have waistcoats. Whehter you wear a waistcoat or not is a personal decision.