whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

    Messages:
    7,502
    Likes Received:
    1,568
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2007
    
    I don't know what level they're on, but I like them, particularly since half the time I wear tweed.
    My checked shirts tend to be broadcloth. But I've owned rtw oxford cloth shirts w/ spread or bd collars by RL, Gant, Arrow, etc. I prefer tattersall shirts to be in oxford, and bd, fwiw.

    Don't most truly casual shirts (work shirts, denim shirts, etc) have spread or point collars? I know I have an old Wrangler one that has a spread collar. I love gingham seersucker in a spread collar. And all of those I'd wear open w/o a tie.

    Unfortunately, i agree w/ Foo on this too, but not quite as dogmatically. I have owned navy pants and rarely wore them, so I gave them away. I own and like dark charcoal pants in light and heavy weights, but I rarely ever wear them w/ coat and tie. The lightweight ones are worn often with a barong. The heavyweight ones with sweaters.

    I am considering getting a cream linen jacket and wearing that with dark charcoal pants. In college and grad school I wore my white/black herringbone tweed jacket w/ white ocbd, black knit tie, and dark charcoal pants. I think that can look very good. Stopped wearing it though, in part because a priest told me priests and seminarians often wore that exact outfit in the 50's and 60's when they weren't in clerics. Too many people think I'm a priest already.

    I don't know if it's good, but I posted a pic in like this earlier in this thread. Maybe in early December?

    I thought the same thing, and ordered a light gray fresco suit w/ hip patch pockets. Really regret it, as I almost never wear the jacket as a sportcoat, and all I really wear are sportcoats.

    I wore my navy blazersuit (3 patch pockets) for my wedding. But I live in California.

    I have a woolen flannel blue blazer that I enjoy. It has dark mop buttons.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013


  2. crooky13

    crooky13 Member

    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2009
    

    I am clearly operating in a different time zone to the main protagonists here. Apologies for going over old ground.

    Merely saying that it is ridiculous for people to say the suit can be dressed down so can withstand a blue shirt but an odd jacket can't be dressed up and withstand a white shirt. The most formal day wear is the morning suit and this normally comprises of an odd jacket and trousers - as well as a white collared shirt.
     


  3. Sander

    Sander Senior member

    Messages:
    2,894
    Likes Received:
    6,180
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2006
    

    You decide:

    [​IMG]
     


  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,101
    Likes Received:
    19,513
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    

    You can find a gray flannel suit and Harris tweed odd jacket at Macy's, Land's End, Men's Wearhouse, etc. I know you don't shop at these places, but a quick Googling isn't too much to ask, is it?
     


  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,865
    Likes Received:
    2,077
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    

    I just searched each of those places. First of all, none have a Harris tweed jacket. Of the three, none have any tweed jackets at all, except for possibly Land's End--but even those look likely to be worsted facsimiles.

    As for grey flannel suits: none have any flannel suits at all except for (possibly) a Calvin Klein suit that Macy's calls "charcoal flannel" and is neither grey nor appears to be anything close to actual flannel. Land's End has separates it calls "flannel" but that are also clearly not flannel. Look at the close-up of the cloth. See the highly-defined twill weave? That is worsted, and not even worsted flannel, which would have a heavily brushed appearance and a much less obvious twill weave.

    Honestly, if you think you found bonafide flannel or tweed at any of those places, it can only be because you don't actually know what flannel and tweed are. That is how ass-backwards and ignorant this forum has become.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013


  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,086
    Likes Received:
    21,446
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.


  7. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

    Messages:
    4,198
    Likes Received:
    2,702
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2008
    Location:
    In Hedonic Decline
    

    Though very few probably should.





    ;-)
     


  8. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

    Messages:
    1,700
    Likes Received:
    4,082
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2012

    [​IMG]

    ...and staple items for all.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013


  9. Omar1223

    Omar1223 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,235
    Likes Received:
    25
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2007
    Location:
    Baltimore, MD
    [​IMG]
    this is from vox's blog.

    foo, if i am understanding what you are saying, the white OCBD is not the ideal pairing for this outfit but is passable because it is an OCBD.

    blue would be better because of the inherent casual nature of the tweed jacket correct?

    also thanks a lot for the posts over the last couple of days, i have learned a lot from your posts as always.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013


  10. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Likes Received:
    1,091
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    That looks great. Think how much better WAYW would be if most posters dressed that simply.
     


  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,865
    Likes Received:
    2,077
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Well, let me be clear. There is "passable" according to rules of specific orthodoxies, and there is "passable" according to aesthetic considerations taken in light of such orthodoxies.

    From my understanding of Ivy or American Trad orthodoxy, a white OCBD worn as above is perfectly passable--even ideal. However, my point is that, taking the broader classic menswear orthodoxy as a whole, we know white to be the most formal of shirt colors. Further, since we are now "allowed" to wear blue as a staple shirt, we have a more casual alternative available which is "passable" in the big picture (though perhaps not by Ivy or American Trad standards; I can't say because I'm not an expert on them). That alternative also happens to be beyond correct. It is thematically more coherent and aesthetically superior (white cuts harshly against tweed, which is typically imbued with the color of an earthy landscape).

    If you want to mimmic a particular style from the past, such as Ivy, my reasoning doesn't work for you. But I hate historical costume. I'd rather dress in a way prudently informed by tradition, not in slavish, to-the-letter adherence to one idiosyncratic orthodoxy or another.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013


  12. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,995
    Likes Received:
    11,274
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2012
    Doc what do you define as "simply"? I personally dont think anyone in sf dresses "simply." The sacred cows included
     


  13. Omar1223

    Omar1223 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,235
    Likes Received:
    25
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2007
    Location:
    Baltimore, MD
    

    i think it looks great too. i was curious as to what foo thought and his explanation was more or less how i thought he would feel.
     


  14. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Likes Received:
    1,091
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    

    Chris O'Donnell's character looks like he got dressed without thinking about it. Easy, natural, effortless. Yet he still looks great. Exactly what Foo says he's aiming for.
     


  15. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,995
    Likes Received:
    11,274
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2012
    

    Well it is fair to also mention that it is a different time where everyone dressed this way without thinking about it. Sort of lime second nature. I believe no matter how nonchalant one looks in his suit today it will still come off too cerebral. Would you agree?
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by