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whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    [​IMG]

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    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  2. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    when does doc not win?

    thanks, NOBD. i kind of owe it all to you and SB.

    it was fun. i still like the look, and may try it with a different tie next time. even if with the same shirt, or maybe a more textured white shirt. or maybe a blue one. who knows. it prompted a good conversation, that never steered into pissing match or ending up peppered with snarky insults. i learned from it, and enjoyed it. i hope everyone else did as well.
     
  3. Coronaeus

    Coronaeus Well-Known Member

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    I've been following, and enjoying this thread for some time. Much interesting opinion and advice.

    I've been pondering a question along similar lines for a while now. I don't own any "in-between" shirts. My shirts are either OCBD, or more refined cotton with a spread collar. What place do non-Oxford Cloth button down shirts or Oxford Cloth shirts that do not button down have in ones wardrobe? How formal (and versatile) would the former be considered?


    Also, and as a corollary, are striped OCBDs generally considered to be in the same "formality" class as solid OCBDs? I have tended to wear my striped OCBD exclusively without a tie, and in a fairly casual manner.

    Cheers, and thanks.
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you're reading into what I said earlier, I think you are taking it the wrong way.

    There is nothing wrong with pairing poplin and tweed. The fundamental and incurable problem with Stitch's outfit is that the shirt is white. Yes, poplin is more formal than, say, oxford cloth. And yes, a spread collar is more formal than a buttondown collar. Hence, the fact that Stitch picked the absolute most inappropriate color for a shirt worn with a faux tweed jacket (yes, that's what it is--not an opinion, but fact), and also picked a formal collar and cloth, is an insult-added-to-injury situation. He is signaling that he really doesn't know what he's doing. He made one big mistake, then garnished it with more evidence he doesn't understand the error.

    A blue poplin, spread collar shirt would have been perfectly fine. I would have no problem wearing such a shirt with that jacket. A white OCBD would still not look right, and I would not do it, but it would better than a white, poplin spread collar.

    Make sense?


    You are correct that textural contrast is important. That's why his tie is somewhat problematic. It is very similar to his jacket in implied textured. Remember, texture plays with color and pattern as well. Even if the jacket is technically smoother than the tie, in balance, they imply something of very similar value due to the jacket's pronounced, decidedly unsuitlike pattern that is typical of real tweed jackets. I have many such "tweed" jackets myself.

    The texture of the shirt itself is no determining issue. It's the color (white).


    They are less formal than non-buttondown collared shirts. Both because of the collar and the cloth. They are exceedingly versatile. You can wear them alone, with no tie and no jacket. With a jacket and no tie. WIth a jacket and a tie. With a suit. Etc. Just keep in mind that when worn with a suit, a buttondown collar tends to strike a more casual air.


    I would not distinguish between them in terms of formality. Though, if absolutely forced to say, I'd have to judge solid colored OCBDs just a hair--an inconsequential hair--more formal.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  5. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    I like it, but would like it even more if the shirt were a bit variegated. Ede and Ravenscroft had a wonderful marbled sky herringbone shirt, but they don't do 37in sleeves, unfortunately.

    My efforts for today: academic good taste?

    [​IMG]
     
  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Roger, the tie is too business and too city. Pocket square is kind of unredeemable--I mean, it's very, very loud. I suppose one could fathom an outfit where it could be worn alright, but it's difficult to do. Better to avoid altogether.

    I don't like the shirt either, but it's sort of hard to make it out. I can say this though: the patterns between the shirt, tie, and jacket are all too tightly packed to look good together. Need more differentiation.
     
  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Looking good Hampton. Very sharp. Just need some slightly longer collar points.

    Nice use of a white square. Thank you for not wearing it with a white shirt!
     
  8. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    Thanks! Have a great weekend!
     
  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is a nice outfit, minus two problems: (1) the elbow patches, and (2) the folded silk (or wool?) square. On principle, I think elbow patches are bad taste unless you actually wore through your elbows and needed to patch them. But they are also just too much when you are already wearing a green tweed suit. So, yes, I'd remove them. They really push you into the costume side of things when you are just flirting at the edge without them. I didn't bother responding to further debate on folding non-linen squares because it was apparent it was going nowhere. But here is a good example of why it should be avoided, no matter the substantiality of the silk (or wool). You can have the meatiest, beefiest silk, and it still won't hold a crisp, folded edge. Thats why folded silk and wool are so easy to spot. You can see right away that the edge is rumpled. Also, TV-folded linen squares are the most formal of squares. Big-patterned silk or wool is much more casual. And your suit is very casual. On grounds of context, folding is bad here too.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    FWIW, 90%+ of my shirts are buttondown collars. I usually wear odd jackets with no tie and a buttondown works sooooo much better for my style and build. It also balances out the shoulders and neck and head much better than spread collars, in my opinion. I'm sure some people think buttondown collars are too "old man" or something like that. But like they say in Green Eggs and Ham, "try it, try it, you will see."
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ain't nothing wrong with buttondowns. As you've found, they are excellent with odd jackets and are really the only collars that look good without a tie.
     
  12. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Thanks Foo. Yeah, I can see your point about silk looking bad folded. Though this one is a kimono silk that folds better than twill, it certainly looks much nicer as a puff; I decided to try folding it because it's a very meaty hanky and when puffed, it feels too bulky in the pocket. This jacket in particular is so lean-chested that adding bulk there almost makes it not fit. But I don't think I'll wear this hank folded again...

    The consensus seems to be that I should have the elbow patches removed - will do [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  13. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    It seems to me that there's also a regional preference. On this small island, button downs are much less present that in the US, it seems (although companies like CT and TML feature them increasingly). On the whole, it seems to me that the Brits like patterns in their shirtings much more than is habitual in North America.
     
  14. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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  15. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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    @mktits: who makes the suit? brooks brothers? I frequently see their suits with pocket square pockets misplaced like this.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  16. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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    here goes nothing:


    trying to pair my least favourite jacket:

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    shirt is doc holliday white in royal oxford



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    these trousers are with 5cm cuffs the grey flannel trousers in the prior fit are made with 4 cm cuffs, which suit me better?




    [​IMG]

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    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
    4 people like this.
  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Were you on the way to bury the bodies?
     
  18. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    I think the photos in the second post look good but not the first. :p
     
  19. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    Misplaced how?
     
  20. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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    [​IMG]


    the bodies of those who asked too many questions...


    @mktits, you are a rather slim fellow if i recall correctly, and usually the ps pocket wouldn't be cut that far away from the lapel on a suit sized for your built.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013

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