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whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    It really is sad that this is a completely true statement.
     
  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Like zeero3 reiterated above, suits can be dressed down much easier than odd jackets can be dressed up.

    If I had to guess at the reason why, it's that, as society has moved further away from tailored clothing and classic menswear as norms, there is less room for "in between" solutions in people's closets. That's to say, a man is more likely to own a suit than a tweed jacket, if he is only going to have one. Sensible, as when one needs to wear a jacket and tie, a suit is more likely to suffice than a tweed jacket. You can dress business formal and sneak into a business casual or "cocktail attire" scenario, but not the other way around.

    Consequently, we now do more with a typical business suit than we may have in the past. In the past, there were also more casual and sporting suits available. So the adaptability of the suit is both sensible today and long-established. In contrast, an odd jacket is only correct when you don't need to be business formal, and hence squarely pegged as a more casual garment that cannot be dressed up.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
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  3. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    ill third that. i can only barely get away with it at work and not be considered a buffoon. at previous jobs, not even an option.
     
  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is nitpicky as in the current incarnations of odd jackets you are absolutely correct, but historically it's not inherently more formal to have jacket and trousers of same material. For example, morning dress and strollers.
     
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  5. DerekS

    DerekS Senior member

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    no... his wife was a client of mine. We'd talk watches and Sinatra. He used to talk about a haberdasher in NY that he used for his ties/scarves. I wish i could remember who it was.
     
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  6. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Another datum

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'm also wearing french cuffs :devil:
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  7. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    ^^^ Saved to my "cool styles" folder. Very nice. Your style doesn't always conform to the norm around here but I usually think it looks good, sugarbutch.
     
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  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sorry, S., that's a fail to me.

    There is a sort of odd jacket that has become common everywhere that echoes the look of old tweed jackets, but has none of the interest or charm. You find them everywhere. At Jos. A. Bank, at Nordstrom, etc. It's the odd jacket that every guy owns who's over 40 and needs an odd jacket but doesn't actually give a crap about being stylish. That's the jacket you are wearing. There are faux worsted "tweed" jackets that pass muster, but they do so with the bold, vivid patterns and colors typical of true tweed. The faux tweed you're wearing doesn't accomplish that.

    Also, you've paired it with dark grey trousers. Those should generally be avoided, as they have the distinct air of being orphaned from a suit.

    The white shirt is not helping you. It only highlights the antithetical nature of your odd jacket. You look like a guy who never wears odd jackets and can't think any differently about them than you would a suit.

    The matching white square is death. It is (as is the shirt) too sharp and contrasting versus your jacket. That it matches your shirt is "technically correct (only because so many people are convinced a white square and white shirt are never wrong together) but banal" at best.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  9. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
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  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The jacket is actually fuzzy, so I'm not sure how much of this critique applies.


    We'll have to agree to disagree about this. Dark gray flannel trousers work just fine as odd trousers. If you have some historical basis for your objection, I'm happy to hear it, though.


    Oh, :foo:... Look at today's shirt in the context of this ongoing conversation. It's a visual riposte. A bit of fun, just like...


    :devil:
     
  11. Patrick R

    Patrick R Senior member

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    Can I presume navy would have the same fault? If you kill navy and charcoal from your pant options, what are good staple colors to use?
     
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    S., regardless of how "fuzzy" you think the jacket is, it is a hard-finished worsted--not a handwoven tweed. That is not a matter of opinion. Also, "fuzzy" or not, the color and pattern are exceedingly meek for an odd jacket. So, yes, the critique most certainly applies.

    Dark grey and charcoal are more formal colors for worsted suiting. Again, that is fact, not opinion. Hence, when you wear dark grey trousers like that, they look like they come from a suit since color is often the only thing to distinguish a pair of odd trousers from suit trousers.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Medium and light greys are most versatile in my experience. Also any manner of tan, brown, etc.
     
  14. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In a way, we are arguing the same thing. I'm glad we have a greater spectrum of options to consider, which is why I'm baffled people don't want to consider all of the options.

    White was always an option ... except on the Interwebz.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
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  15. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is a navy odd jacket also meek?


    So, all those ivy folks in charcoal J Press trousers were wrong the whole time? I'll be damned.
     
  16. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No, unless you are confusing what is ordinary with what is meek in context. In the context of an odd jacket, your faux tweed is meek. As a suiting, it would be fine. A navy blazer, done correctly, is what it should be. Your jacket is a naive bastardization.


    I don't know who those "folks" are, but what J. Press sells is hardly infallible.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  17. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What is it bastardizing? It seems there is no room in your world for an odd jacket with a bit of subtle pattern. 'Tis a pity.


    You emphasize the wrong part of what I was saying. I'm talking about the people wearing them. You know, a historical basis for our current sartorial choices. The ivy tradition certainly qualifies as a valid antecedent of current classic tailored clothing, no?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 25, 2013
  18. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's bastardizing in that your jacket is designed to echo a more defined and established form of odd jacket that you yourself appear completely unaware of. No, there is no room in my world for a faux tweed jacket with a subtle pattern. Just as there is no room for a green dinner suit. That's the world of classic menswear. The world you attempt to dabble in but don't understand. The point of this thread was originally to bring the language of that world back to Styleforum, but apparently it has failed since most of you don't even realize there's a language to learn.

    This is Sparta?


    As I stressed with Doc, historical examples exist for everything. The point of classic menswear is not to mimmic them, but to understand and learn from them.
     
  19. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I am aware, and I'm okay with the echo. I don't agree that this is the equivalent of a green dinner suit. I think you do me a disservice to assert that I am unaware that there's a language.
     
  20. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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    quite good? given that I sneaked in a white shirt that's quite the compliment coming from :foo: =)

    yes the last outfit has folded silk but it's vanda's kimono silk, shit's like 1mm in thickness. folds like french crêpe!

    yes that's the bane of skinny lapels. thanks don draper.

    I wish my weight would change for once, I've been 220 lbs forever now and desperately try to gain... metabolism like a hummingbird.
     

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