What was the inspiration for 80's type suits?

[Testudo_Aubreii]



Nice find, other. I'm quoting it because I'd like to compare it with an equally exaggerated version of the 1970s silhouette:

Here we have a narrow, high, concave shoulder; the chest cut close to to the body; wide lapels; pinched waist; flared skirts; trousers tight in the thigh and flaring out below the knee. The silhouette's total effect is of a narrow pyramid: /\. It inverts the classic masculine V. It's a masculine version of a classic women's silhouette, as here in Dior's New Look:

Or you might say it's an updating of a silhouette long unused in mens' wear:



Now look at the Armani droop. Compared to the 70s suits, it's like a massive, aggressively wide V, even with the droop and the lower shoulder. Against the 70s' pyramid silhouette, it asserts the classic masculine triangle with a vengeance. This is why I said earlier that the 80s droop suit is a reaction against the 70s' flirting with femininity.

(A very good analysis--which I've cribbed--of the 1970s silhouette by Sator is here.

And a good one of the 70s' high shoulder here.)

 

[IndianBoyz]



I'm sure we're all victims to a certain extent.

This is what I call victims, or maybe even better, patients.

http://www.weirdasianews.com/2012/01/07/chinas-latest-knockoffs-fake-designer-shopping-bags/

 

[recondite]

".....and I'm all out of bubblegum!"

Classic movie.

I'm sure we're all victims to a certain extent.

 

[MikeDT]



This is what I call victims, or maybe even better, patients.
http://www.weirdasianews.com/2012/01/07/chinas-latest-knockoffs-fake-designer-shopping-bags/

Nova Check carrier bags, from the local supermarket.

 

[David Reeves]



Obey...consume...conform...submit.

They live?

May I also recommend for monsieur "the Stuff". Its on netflix instant.

 

[IndianBoyz]



 

[MikeDT]



They live?

Yup.
"I have come here to chew bubble gum and kick ass, and I'm all out of bubble gum."

May I also recommend for monsieur "the Stuff". Its on netflix instant.

Hey thanks, I'll check it out.

 

[rach2jlc]



Ferre was incredible, and the rise and fall of the house (at least to shadow of its former glory) is instructive of the power of marketing and branding.

Yes, given how much the brand has fallen off the radar, it's hard to believe the impact it had on fashion in the 80's. Though Armani had the "unstructured" look down, it was Ferre who did most of the "sculptural" and structured look of 80's and 90's fashion... both for men and for women. Those who were familiar with the mainline during those days... and even up until his death in 2007... knew of the amazing (sometimes OVERly so) construction of his garments. He was nicknamed "the architect of fashion" for a reason.

It also maintained a position between RtW and couture, in terms of construction. Many of the outerwear and more "substantial" pieces were built like pieces of armor, like the earlier YSL couture.

As well, one can gauge the importance of an 80's brand by the number of lines it had at its peak... for a while Ferre had perhaps a dozen different lines. Off hand, I can think of Gianfranco Ferre (mainline), Ferre White, Ferre Red, Ferre Jeans, Ferre Sport, Ferre Studio, 0001 Ferre, Oaks Ferre, GFF, Gieffeffe.... and I know I'm forgetting a few.

Anyway, Ferre had a very brief resurgence in 2008 and 2009 with some outstanding collections (AW2008/2009 with Lars Nilsson and Aw2009/2010), but now it's under new ownership again with folk who appear to know nothing about the brand or what it did.

 

[Kristen Morris]

What is the source of this image! I can see that it is an Alan Flusser Suit, but am curious the source/magazine ?!?! Does anyone know. I would like to cite it in my research!
Great post! Thank you!

 

[sullivan025]

Well for one thing the 80's was a time of excess - thus the power suit emerged.

 

[carpu65]

I read that Tom Ford gets inspiration from the 1940s for his suits, and RLPL is inspired by Savile Row. But what about the peculiar characteristics we associate with suits from the 80s? I'm talking about the extra wide shoulders, pleats and extra fabric in the suits. Is there a particular era (or region) that inspired this look?

one word: Armani

And the Armani inspiration was the worse of 40s:

 

[IndianBoyz]

Versace Fall/Winter 2013-2014

 

[IndianBoyz]

And I actually liked the loose cut.