Need advice for my first bespoke suit.

[MasterChiefS117]

I am a university student and I am 21 years old. My parents promise me to buy a bespoke suit to reward me for losing weights. Their budget is about 18000 USD. First I want to go Kiton, Brioni or Tom Ford but I heard their quailty isn't good. Then I think maybe Savile Row is a choice. However, I live in Toronto and I cannot just fly across the ocean to London for the multiple fittings because I am a full-time student. I know Huntsman&sons has one shop in New York, and it is much easier for me to fly to New York instead of flying to London. I want a three-piece suit with fabric like Scabal Sunrise(50% silk and 50% Super 200s wool) or Scabal Summit( Super 250s). How much will it take for the tailor shops like Huntsman? Will it be cheaper if I fly to Savile Row?

 

[maxalex]

Slow down, take a deep breath.

$18,000 will buy you a lot of bespoke—like three Savile Row or Brioni/Kiton suits. I don’t know who comes to Toronto for trunk shows but you would need to make at least three trips to NY or London for a first bespoke project.

Beyond the expense (it sounds like money is not a problem in your family) you should spend a lot of time doing research and learning about bespoke. I would start by poring over Simon Crompton’s blog posts on Permanent Style. He has much to say about choosing not just tailors but everything from styles, fabrics, buttons, etc. I also recommend watching the documentary film “O’Mast,” which will give you a sense of the rich history and craft of bespoke tailoring, albeit here in Naples.

There is no “right” way to do bespoke because by definition it can be anything, and it depends on what you’re looking for, your lifestyle, your work etc. But there are plenty of ways to make mistakes. Proceed slowly and you will avoid regrets. You don’t want to be like those Arab sheiks who stroll into Rubinacci and throw money at the staff while knowing nothing about tailoring. (My apologies if you are one; there’s always room for improvement.)

My son, also in his twenties, commissions bespoke from young up-and-coming tailors in Naples who are his age (like €2,000 for a suit) and old master tailors in Sicily where everything is cheaper (€1,000). But then, his dad doesn’t pay as he has his own tailor bills.

 

[Ben W]

What does your wardrobe currently consist of in terms of suits? Will any of them fit or be able to be made to fit (well) after your weight-loss? If you're in the process of losing weight I would think three $6,000 suits would be a much better investment than one $18,000 suit once you hit and maintain target weight.

Also please don't take this the wrong way but I absolutely wouldn't go out and spend a ton of money on suits the moment you hit target weight. Not to be presumptuous, but in my experience most people fluctuate a fair bit if losing significantly, and I'd hate to see you spend $18,000 on a suit and then not be able to wear it.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I also recommend watching the documentary film “O’Mast,” which will give you a sense of the rich history and craft of bespoke tailoring, albeit here in Naples.

A few years ago the full movie was on YouTube but it’s been taken down since. Great film and even greater characters, these Neapolitan tailors.

 

[yorkshire pud]

Exactly how much weight did you lose??

 

[rjc149]

On a more practical note, are you getting this $18,000 suit for a particular reason? A job? Or do you just want to own a ludicrously expensive luxury garment (assuming 18000 USD wasn’t a typo) for the occasional formal event?

You can get a very nice bespoke suit for around $2,000.

Also, word to the wise, a suit is usually worn to convey a message about one’s status and station in life. A 21 year old student in a $18,000 suit his parents bought him is not a good look. You’ll be more an object of derision, not admiration. But again, if you simply want to own it for ownership’s sake, go for it. Visiting London for a suit fitting would be a fun trip, that’s for sure. London is a fascinating town, if you’re interested in history.

 

[MapleLeaf1967]

I am a university student and I am 21 years old. My parents promise me to buy a bespoke suit to reward me for losing weights. Their budget is about 18000 USD. First I want to go Kiton, Brioni or Tom Ford but I heard their quailty isn't good. Then I think maybe Savile Row is a choice. However, I live in Toronto and I cannot just fly across the ocean to London for the multiple fittings because I am a full-time student. I know Huntsman&sons has one shop in New York, and it is much easier for me to fly to New York instead of flying to London. I want a three-piece suit with fabric like Scabal Sunrise(50% silk and 50% Super 200s wool) or Scabal Summit( Super 250s). How much will it take for the tailor shops like Huntsman? Will it be cheaper if I fly to Savile Row?

I have arranged for a Neapolitan tailor to visit Toronto in the second week of June. Specifically, Sartoria Manna. They come very highly recommended by Hugo Jacomet of Sartorial Talks. They are a relatively small operation with very reasonable prices, ranging from 2000 Euro for a bespoke suit and up. Please let me know if you are interested in meeting with the tailor during his visit. Leave your contact info.

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

Start following tailors you're interested in. I'd recommend setting up a menswear-specific instagram account to follow them on. Get to know their house cuts, and keep track of when they visit Toronto. When you know who you want and they come to Toronto, go to the show, get measured, feel the fabrics, and pick your fabrics right there.

It sounds like you want something summerweight and super luxe. That's nice, that's a way to run the bill up to $18000. Sure. Do note that pure 250s wool will be insanely fine and probably insanely light. But good luck.

If you have the option, I'd probably suggest getting one summer suit and one year-round or winter suit, ideally from two different tailors so you can see what you like more about one or the other.

 

[Nitrogen]

I'm beginning my journey in to the world of quality menswear, and I would have to agree with the comments suggesting to do a lot of research. In my opinion, the best plan is to buy multiple suits, a suit at a time, starting cheap (or should I say, reasonable price) rather than expensive. This way you can start to train your own eye and experience for actually deciding what you like and what you want, from the overall construction of the suit to details like lapel styles, widths, heights etc. I'm sure with that money you can get an excellent suit, but for me the lesson has been that you learn with each suit, as you also spend time researching each suit and the choices you make.