What does a bad fused suit (bubbling) look like?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by pbandjay, Jun 13, 2011.

  1. pbandjay

    pbandjay Well-Known Member

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    I'm in the market for a new suit, and I won't be able to spring for fully canvassed. I am looking for pictures/experiences specifically to what bubbling looks like ? and other pitfalls of fused suits. The one I am looking at has this small airfilled bump on the surface, it claims to be 100% merino wool and I'm trying to figure out if it's a bubble or just pressing/steaming needed? thanks and again- pics highly appreciated - especially of what I can expect a bad fused suit to look like.
     


  2. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

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    You just don't need to constantly dryclean it and you'll be fine. It's not as much that fusing bubbles that's the problem, it's the general drape of the coat, the cost-cutting that extends into other parts of the jacket, and the usage of fusing in generally inferior jackets. However, not all fused jackets are bad. Polo jackets are half canvassed (not sure why), but they're still very nice.
     


  3. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    Bubbling means just what it implies, bubbles resulting from seperation of the fusing and wool shell at random areas of the garment.
    Fusing is a heat activated adhesived material that gives the wool layer more body and structure. This is also what canvassing does, the difference being that canvassing is not adhesived to the wool outer shell.
    Fusing can seperate for a number of reasons, either from excessive or abusive wearing, exposure to water (rain) or the heat from a dry cleaners press.
    With care, a fused jacket will hold for a good long time (years), however, where possible, if you can wait and save, it is better to do so and invest in a fully canvassed jacket on the suit.
    Where bubbling is at its worst (in my experience) are fused garments like raincoats and windbreakers.
    I have a few Hugo Boss fused suits that are several years old and still in wonderful condition but I do have a rotation of many suits so no one suit is taking on daily wear. If you can purchase a fused suit that retails for over $,1000.00 or more for $400.00-$500.00 it is (arguably) still a good buy.
     


  4. jrmhng

    jrmhng Member

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    I am interested in this too. Can anyone post up some photos?
     


  5. fazlang

    fazlang New Member

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    I have an old fused suit with bubbles galore.
    Just for fun, i separated the fusing from the jacket fabric (pinched and pulled away inner fusing from the wool). Worked all the way from shoulder to the bottom edge of jacket including lapels.
    No more bubbles!
    Too bad i've "outgrown" the suit, or else it may still be wearable!

    If you're looking to buy a suit and it already has signs of bubbling, avoid. It'll only get worse.
     


  6. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not exactly.

    Unless the bond was extremely weak to begin with, wearing will not soften it. Neither will water dissolve the resin. Pressing will not do it, but many dry cleaners do not press- they steam on a dummy and that's what kills it.

    Prior to sewing, the resin on the interlining is melted at a high temperature while the cloth and interlining are being fed through a machine with rollers exerting a lot of pressure so a bond is formed between the two. If the bond is heated while under pressure (during pressing) there is little or no risk of delamination. If, however, the garment is subjected to heat and humidity (steam) without pressure to keep the bond, then you have a risk of bubbling. In a factory, if we need to separate the interlining from the cloth for whatever reason, we just give it a shot of steam and it peels of pretty easily. That's why you should never steam a fused suit.

    If you see what you think may be bubbling on a suit, it could be from other things as well. There is excess cloth worked into various areas which, when pressed properly, stay flat. When exposed to humidity, they can pucker (another reason not to steam a suit).
     


  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^ so what are you saying, that it is bad to steam my suit??? Just curious.:nodding:
     


  8. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^^ Would you like me to come to your shop and steam all your suits for you and then we'll see how they look?
     


  9. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

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    Sounds like a date! :)
     


  10. mlongano

    mlongano Senior member

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    Please don't steam mine Jeffery!!!
     


  11. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    Since you guys say steaming is bad for SC's, do you press them after every wear?
     


  12. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    No. What are you doing that wrinkles so badly you would want to?
     


  13. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    I wear it in the car/sometimes at my desk.
     


  14. hugh51271

    hugh51271 Well-Known Member

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    So no steaming what can one do?
     


  15. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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