Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[Nealjpage]

Costco does oversized prints on canvas with wood frame backing.

That makes it fancy.

 

[sam67]

I thought about returning to my cowboy boot days of high school but decided I can't really do a 2.5 inch heel. Not really sure what I was thinking.I called Frye but they don't have any info, saying it was an older nomenclature. Know of any other resource? Any idea what kind of hide this is? Only thing I could find online says they are probably post 1980 to pre 2001 ownership change. thanks

View attachment 1416357 View attachment 1416353

I see there is another area for Frye or was. I'll put the question there

 

[ccpl14]

That'll put her in the mood.

Vintage Viagra

 

[jpm1]

Allen Edmonds Bedford from February of 1976. Style number 4343 made on the Bancroft Last. This shoe first appeared in the 1965 catalog through 1983.

1976 Catalog pictures included. Bancroft Last appears to be the same as 73 last. The Chester, which I know for a fact was made on 73, is also listed as Bancroft from that era.

Also, if the price notation on the 76 catalog page is accurate, I paid less for these in 2020 than they cost in 1976.

 

[CWOyaji]

My early 80's Johnston & Murphy Crown Aristocraft shell shortwings were starting to develop two teeny tiny cracks in the broguing at the top of the back of one of them. Cobbler Steve from Odessa really outdid himself, with both the reinforcing job and the color match.

The original design had broguing all the way around the back, but I don't mind this change. Pants cuffs cover this area anyway.

I think these will be good now for another 35 years or so.

 

[Nealjpage]

Allen Edmonds Bedford from February of 1976. Style number 4343 made on the Bancroft Last. This shoe first appeared in the 1965 catalog through 1983.

1976 Catalog pictures included. Bancroft Last appears to be the same as 73 last. The Chester, which I know for a fact was made on 73, is also listed as Bancroft from that era.

Also, if the price notation on the 76 catalog page is accurate, I paid less for these in 2020 than they cost in 1976.
View attachment 1416506 View attachment 1416507 View attachment 1416508 View attachment 1416511 View attachment 1416512 View attachment 1416513 View attachment 1416514

Do you suppose that $59 was the retail price or the cost for the retailer?

 

[masernaut]

My early 80's Johnston & Murphy Crown Aristocraft shell shortwings were starting to develop two teeny tiny cracks right up in the broguing at the top of the back of one of them. Cobbler Steve from Odessa really outdid himself, with both the reinforcing job and the color match, for $30 net.
View attachment 1416536 View attachment 1416537
The original design had the broguing all the way around the back, but I don't mind having this change made. Pants cuffs cover this area anyway.
View attachment 1416538 View attachment 1416539
I think these will be good now for another 35 or so years.
View attachment 1416540

That's a job well done.

 

[jpm1]

Do you suppose that $59 was the retail price or the cost for the retailer?

Very possible! I was born in 77 so I have no idea what AE cost back then.

 

[Nealjpage]

My early 80's Johnston & Murphy Crown Aristocraft shell shortwings were starting to develop two teeny tiny cracks right up in the broguing at the top of the back of one of them. Cobbler Steve from Odessa really outdid himself, with both the reinforcing job and the color match, for $30 net.
View attachment 1416536 View attachment 1416537
The original design had the broguing all the way around the back, but I don't mind having this change made. Pants cuffs cover this area anyway.
View attachment 1416538 View attachment 1416539
I think these will be good now for another 35 or so years.
View attachment 1416540

Did he use shell or calf for the repair?

 

[CWOyaji]

Did he use shell or calf for the repair?

He's used leather on all the jobs like this that he's done for me so far.

 

[hamercha]

Very possible! I was born in 77 so I have no idea what AE cost back then.

During the pre-internet days, manufacturer such as Alden and AE have different sheet for the price. Since most of their model stays the same year to year, they usually send the newer price sheet whenever the price changes, but kept the same catalog year to year.

The price looks like it is handwritten written. The price should be retail. The wholesale price of the AE calfskin models when I worked in the store in the year Y2K is about $125. And the retail price is about twice as much. So, my hunch is 20 years before that in the 70s, the wholesale price is lot lower than $59.

 

[friendlygoz]

Allen Edmonds Bedford from February of 1976. Style number 4343 made on the Bancroft Last. This shoe first appeared in the 1965 catalog through 1983.

1976 Catalog pictures included. Bancroft Last appears to be the same as 73 last. The Chester, which I know for a fact was made on 73, is also listed as Bancroft from that era.

Also, if the price notation on the 76 catalog page is accurate, I paid less for these in 2020 than they cost in 1976.
View attachment 1416506 View attachment 1416507 View attachment 1416508 View attachment 1416511 View attachment 1416512 View attachment 1416513 View attachment 1416514

Those are amazing. How do they fit? I’ve been eyeing a vintage pair of AE Brentwood that I assumed more on the 65 last based on “5” being the last number in the model code. But now I wonder based on this information.

 

[wasmisterfu]

I'm thinking of blowing it up and putting it above my bed. I'm sure my wife would be totally fine with that.

Man, your wife is awesome.Tell her we said so.

 

[wasmisterfu]

Allen Edmonds Bedford from February of 1976. Style number 4343 made on the Bancroft Last. This shoe first appeared in the 1965 catalog through 1983.

1976 Catalog pictures included. Bancroft Last appears to be the same as 73 last. The Chester, which I know for a fact was made on 73, is also listed as Bancroft from that era.

Also, if the price notation on the 76 catalog page is accurate, I paid less for these in 2020 than they cost in 1976.
View attachment 1416506 View attachment 1416507 View attachment 1416508 View attachment 1416511 View attachment 1416512 View attachment 1416513 View attachment 1416514

Cool shoes. Yes, the Bancroft is the 73 last used for the Chester and Broadstreet (along with a number of other models). Oddly enough AE, during the late 60’s and 70’s, liked to mix and flip names on the lasts. The 73 was the Kent last, then it became the Bancroft, and the Kent name (assigned to a new model) became the 8 last, which is no relation to the current 8, aka 108, last - as the 108 is basically a non-combo last version of the 206 loafer last).

 

[wasmisterfu]

Those are amazing. How do they fit? I’ve been eyeing a vintage pair of AE Brentwood that I assumed more on the 65 last based on “5” being the last number in the model code. But now I wonder based on this information.

The 5 is the 65, aka boulevard last. It’s the same last that they use today. Personally, one of the things I like about collecting AE’s, is that certain lasts (the 65, 97, 73, etc.) have remained consistent. My 97 last shoes made in the late 60’s fit essentially the same way my 97 last shoes made in the 70’s, 80’s, 90’s and 00’s. What you have to watch out for is last numbers (single or final digit numerals) get reassigned. The current 511 or 108, is not the same as the 1 and 8 last from the 70’s.

That said the 73, 65 and 97 are the same, with models like the Fifth Ave and MacNeil having been built continuously on those lasts.