Vass fit: U vs. F last

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by von Rothbart, Dec 2, 2006.

  1. von Rothbart

    von Rothbart Senior member

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    How does F last fit in comparison to U last? Does F's rounder toe make the fit roomier than U? How about instep? Are F and U last more or less the same except for the shape of toe?
     


  2. pkincy

    pkincy Senior member

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    I can't be sure but that is what I understand (I only own the U). Both are low volume toe boxes (the Italian lasts) especially compared to the Budapest or 3636. they do have an amazingly large volume under the vamp however.

    I compare them very much to the JL 8000. Bit low volume in the toe area but nice instep volume.

    I have toyed with trying a New Peter last. Round toe but has more toe volume, but less than the Budapest or 3636. However I will likely order a St Crispin first.

    Perry
     


  3. kabert

    kabert Senior member

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    I've only see pictures of the F last, but they certainly appear to have a wider toe box than the U-last. I recently sold my one pair of U-last shoes (chukka boots). They were size 47, which roughly translates to size 13 US. Size 47 Vass on the R Last are roomy for me, and I can wear thick wool socks with them in the winter. Size 46's in the R last I can wear too. The size 47 U-Last, on the other hand, could only be worn by me with the thinnest socks. Just too snug in the toe. Though they were a thing of beauty, I found myself relieved at day's end (sometimes before) to remove them and "release" my feet.
     


  4. pkincy

    pkincy Senior member

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    I just put on a U Last Oxford and a JL Sutton prestige, both in 8.5E UK sizing.

    They fit very very similarly and have a very similar shape. Look at some of Aportnoy's and my recent pictures of our shoes. They are not nearly so narrow in person as they are in pictures.

    The 8000 last may have a slight bit more ht in the toe box area but if so, it is measured at about 1/8 inch.

    So if you wear an 8000 last well you will wear a U last well,or at least my feet do. And I recall Aportnoy saying the same thing.

    Perry
     


  5. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I just put on a U Last Oxford and a JL Sutton prestige, both in 8.5E UK sizing.

    They fit very very similarly and have a very similar shape. Look at some of Aportnoy's and my recent pictures of our shoes. They are not nearly so narrow in person as they are in pictures.

    The 8000 last may have a slight bit more ht in the toe box area but if so, it is measured at about 1/8 inch.

    So if you wear an 8000 last well you will wear a U last well,or at least my feet do. And I recall Aportnoy saying the same thing.

    Perry



    Exactly right Perry. U last and 8000 are an almost identical fit for me. I find neither to be narrow or difficult to wear. Both are exceptionally comfortable right out of the box. I have two pair of F last in the works and will be able to make valid comparisons upon receipt.
     


  6. pkincy

    pkincy Senior member

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    I am sitting here watching the USC/UCLA game with a JL 8000 on my left foot and a U Last Vass on my right. And they feel exactly alike.

    I do think there may be 1/8th of an inch or even a bit less more wiggle room in the toe box of the 8000, and over hours that can make a difference if the volume is already tight.

    I suspect if you have a lot of volume in the front of your feet either could be tite. My Sutor Mantellassi and Bonito both have more volume ahead of the vamp and both are more comfortable over long periods of time for me with the Mantellassis being like slippers for my foot shape.

    After watching that game and 1/2 of the OU/Neb game, I do feel some differences. The U last is a bit tighter in the toe box and a very slight bit tighter under the vamp on my feet. Also the heel is shorter on the U last making the foot in the JL pitch forward a bit while walking and the U last pitch a bit backwards. These differences are subtle but do appear moreso after time.

    Perry
     


  7. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    I am sitting here watching the USC/UCLA game with a JL 8000 on my left foot and a U Last Vass on my right.
    [​IMG]
     


  8. pkincy

    pkincy Senior member

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    No sacrifice is too great for my fora friends! [​IMG]

    Perry
     


  9. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    So a 7E Lobb 8000 last would be a size 41 Vass U last?
     


  10. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    So a 7E Lobb 8000 last would be a size 41 Vass U last?

    Exactly Z. I take 41.5 in the U and 7.5E on the 8000.
     


  11. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff grrrrrrrr!!

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    I am sitting here watching the USC/UCLA game with a JL 8000 on my left foot and a U Last Vass on my right.



    unbelievable, vass won huh?
     


  12. von Rothbart

    von Rothbart Senior member

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    Thanks for the info. So Vass U 43.5 and 44 should fit very close to JL 8000 in 9.5E and 10E? I think I know how Vass U is going to fit me but still would like to know the F, same size as U?
     


  13. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks for the info. So Vass U 43.5 and 44 should fit very close to JL 8000 in 9.5E and 10E? I think I know how Vass U is going to fit me but still would like to know the F, same size as U?

    After much consultation, I ordered the same size in both U and F, 41.5.
     


  14. Jerry52

    Jerry52 Senior member

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    So how do you guys like Vass for "bang for buck" compared with Aldens or Santonis or Crockett & Jones or Ferrigamo??? How does it compare for comfort and build quality and visual appeal? Is there a reliable seller of Vass that offers some discounts? I take it some of their shoes are available under $500 US? Thanks...Vass seems like the "gray ghost" on this board--- well respected but not nearly as discussed as Lobb, Green, etc. It's a recent discovery for me and I'm sort of curious...Of course they might not fit my 12-C foot very well, which is the story of most imports.

    Jerry
     


  15. Chris "Italia"

    Chris "Italia" Senior member

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    So how do you guys like Vass for "bang for buck" compared with Aldens or Santonis or Crockett & Jones or Ferrigamo??? How does it compare for comfort and build quality and visual appeal? Is there a reliable seller of Vass that offers some discounts? I take it some of their shoes are available under $500 US? Thanks...Vass seems like the "gray ghost" on this board--- well respected but not nearly as discussed as Lobb, Green, etc. It's a recent discovery for me and I'm sort of curious...Of course they might not fit my 12-C foot very well, which is the story of most imports.

    Jerry



    Vass is one of the best RTW shoemakers in the world, completely handmade; they do welt by hand, only 5 (I think) other RTW makers do this, as far as I know are Silvano Lattanzi, Paolo Scafora, Stefano Bemer, Stefano Branchini, and Kiton. I would take any of these handmade shoes if I were rich like Michael Dell.


    Vass is the cheapest of the 5, I would think. though.

    I don't think Barrett or Bonora do this as the other 5 do, I could be wrong. Barrett does some handwelted shoes, but not to the exent of Vass or the others I had mentioned.






    Santoni, Edward Green, John Lobb uses Goodyear Welted Machine assistance in their shoemaking.
     


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