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Tuxedo, Made to Order or RTW?

jeff13007

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Well if RTW works on him then he probably doesn't need to go bespoke; however, most of the time I hear someone who thinks RTW looks good on him, it really doesn't... If he knows what he's doing and likes how a certain RTW item looks then yeah, I guess it's OK...


Same can be said about a lot of bespoke/MTM
 

RDiaz

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Same can be said about a lot of bespoke/MTM

Well if I drop $4k on a bespoke suit at least I expect to find a tailor who knows what he's doing and gives me some advice... with RTW you're limited to your own opinion and the salesman is unlikely to be of any help. But yes, of course bespoke can go horribly wrong.
 
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jeff13007

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Well if I drop $4k on a bespoke suit at least I expect a tailor who knows what he's doing and gives me some advice... with RTW you're limited to your own opinion and the salesman is unlikely to be of any help. But yes, of course bespoke can go horribly wrong.


Of course and you are fully right in doing so. The advantage of RTW is that you can already see pretty much how its going to look on you. I have gone both routes with Bespoke from Steed and NSM, as well as high end OTR/MTO with Brioni, Tom Ford, Attolini, Kiton. Now in my case yes i agree with you that i got a lot more out of my money by going to edwin (steed) and mina/dino (nsm), but i like the way Tom Ford looks on me, not everyones cup of tea but its what i like and i get much more utility from my Tom Ford suit in that i use it a lot more often than i do with my bespoke ones, the Steed yes i wear that all the time, but the NSM just once in a blue moon. Now is that saying the NSM is bad? No i think its a beautiful suit but i just like the shape of my other stuff even RTW over it. And you would be surprised at the level of service and knowledge that sales people at Brioni and Tom Ford, even Saks, Bergdorfs etc have. Of course there are horror stories but in my experience the ones here at least (NYC) know what they are doing.
 

RDiaz

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Well I guess I'm biased cause I'm very hard to fit and no RTW looks good on me, no matter how expensive. If the OP knows what looks good and what doesn't, and he likes how a certain brand looks on him, I'd say go for it. But still, I believe a bespoke suit which has been cut to flatter a specific body is difficult to beat. It's just hard to find the right tailor I guess.
 
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jeff13007

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Well I guess I'm biased cause I'm very hard to fit and no RTW looks good on me, no matter how expensive. If the OP knows what looks good and what doesn't, and he likes how a certain brand looks on him, I'd say go for it. But still, I believe a bespoke suit which has been cut to flatter a specific body is difficult to beat. It's just hard to find the right tailor I guess. 


And you are absolutely right, but like i was saying if he likes how Brioni or Gucci or w/e looks on him, going to a bespoke tailor and getting something cut in their house style might not be to his liking. Im not trying to say RTW is better than Bespoke I'm just saying its not worth taking the risk with Bespoke when he already has found something that works on him and he likes with RTW/MTM/MTO. I probably should have said this earlier but i do believe that my bespoke Steed is a million times better than my MTO Tom Ford, and at almost half the price too, but i still get more utility from my TF suit because i like how it looks. The OP likes how Brioni looks on him, he's not going to get the same thing from a bespoke tailor who does their own house style.
 

RDiaz

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He also said Brioni was too expensive...
If Prada does have a MTM program and he likes the fit perhaps that would be an option.
And of course if going the bespoke route, I guess tailors have some pre-made garments so potential customers can see if they would like the styling?
 
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jeff13007

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He also said Brioni was too expensive...
If Prada does have a MTM program and he likes the fit perhaps that would be an option.
And of course if going the bespoke route, I guess tailors have some pre-made garments so potential customers can see if they would like the styling?


Well i was lucky in that Edwin's son matthew is about my size so i was able to try on his jacket to get an idea of what the house style would look like, but if you are asking if they have suits in stock patterns, well some of them do like Huntsman has RTW suits, but most pure bespoke firms i don't think will, you might be able to try on someone else's jacket thats close to your measurements though which is what i did with Mina.
 

cjthekid

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Thanks for all the feedback. I'm still a little unsure. I did really like most of the Tom Ford it's just his lapels are a little too big for my head. I also liked the RL black label fit but the materials just felt a little cheap. Will I be able to get a hybrid TF/Brioni/RLBL at a MTM place like Martin greenfield or do I have to go full bespoke?
 

jeff13007

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Im not really sure if he is Bespoke or MTM, i think he does the stuff for brooks brothers gold fleece if I'm not mistaken. I mean sure you can ask for certain details when you order it as long as its within reason (larger lapels, little bit/more structure, longer jacket etc), but in the end its going to be a Martin Greenfield suit so you can really deviate from the house style that much, maybe you should make an appointment to see his work? its safer that way because he can actually explain how his house style is. You may end up liking it even more than Brioni/TF.
 

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