Trouser break and cuffs for shorter man?

[josepidal]

Aren't pleats contradictory to emphasizing vertical lines? I mean.. the cress does constitute a vertical line however the whole hip area becomes somehow baboonish...isn't that inferior to say a slim straight cut without pleats?

Is it right that if they are reverse pleats, they wouldn't cause the hip/thigh to balloon and could reinforce the vertical line of the crease?

 

[artyom.le.gall]

Is it right that if they are reverse pleats, they wouldn't cause the hip/thigh to balloon and could reinforce the vertical line of the crease?

You just taught me, very subtly, there’s 2 types of pleats. Thank you! Now, i don’t recall any of the MTM im familiar with calling out the pleat type. Now..looking for further education.. I stumbled on this article which IMHO is written wonderfully. And as extra bonus I also found the site intriguing as I do enjoy weightlifting. Who knows..maybe I’ll change my mind

A Place for Pleats

Pleated pants are not only showing up on runways, but in reputable and well-regarded men’s clothing stores as well. Don't give up on them just yet.

www.artofmanliness.com

 

[Despos]

In general, if you’re not that tall, you’ll find that most tailors will recommend reducing horizontal lines especially in suits, that additional ticket pockets and the like and will recommend anything that emphasizes vertical lines, i.e. trouser pleats, stripes, narrow lapels, hacking pockets on the suit jacket, notch lapels rather than peak lapels, etc. Personally, I agree with the aforementioned statements that a trouser cuff is perfectly acceptable irrespective of height, although you may find that cuff-less trousers will visually stretch you just a bit more.

Broadening the chest and shoulder while minimizing the waist and hip elongates the look more than anything you listed. The silhouette does more and overrides other details to emphasize a vertical line.
Wrote the same thing earlier in this thread about the effect silhouette has on emphasizing a vertical line of the trouser. Same principle for a trouser or a jacket.

 

[Despos]

Also seeking @Despos experience and advise! Aren't pleats contradictory to emphasizing vertical lines? I mean.. the cress does constitute a vertical line however the whole hip area becomes somehow baboonish...isn't that inferior to say a slim straight cut without pleats? it will be less comfortable pockets wise and/or maybe the pockets becomes unusable which will impact Italian looks with the jacket..but still if the idea is to give a taller figure impression.. what do you think ?

Is it right that if they are reverse pleats, they wouldn't cause the hip/thigh to balloon and could reinforce the vertical line of the crease?

Pleated trousers we make have a very flat hip and no balloon like effect on the hip. When you see that fullness around the seat/hip, it's an indication of an imbalanced trouser pattern. It's using a trouser pattern that isn't meant for your body type or just a poorly devised pattern.
I cut pleated trousers with a slightly higher rise than a plain front.
Regular, forward pleats work better with an even higher rise and small hip figure. Reverse pleats work well for any body type and can help camouflage a big belly.

 

[josepidal]

Regular, forward pleats work better with an even higher rise and small hip figure.

Incredible responses sifu.

Roughly how high do you mean by "even higher rise"? Is the belly button high enough?

 

[lexxdeleon]

I'm a slim 5'7" and have experimented with various cuff sizes, but find I keep going back to 2 inches with no break when wearing loafers which is the footwear I spend most my time in.

I've tried a 1" short cuff with more casual cotton trousers/chino's and I do kinda like that on very casual pieces. This is something I don't do often though.

On the other end of the spectrum I've tried around a 2 1/4" cuff. I thought this worked out fine, works better if the higher rise trouser also has a taller waistband and your jacket has a wider lapel or taller flap pockets. Those details would help keep the proportions of everything in line.

For some reason I don't like 1.5" cuffs, I much prefer 1.75". I think it's because it reminds of my old low-ish rise, baggy dockers I use to wear in high school and the hem was probably two inches too long.

I do forego the cuff on some flat front trousers, I typically will give those a little break. At the end of the day we're talking about 1/4-1/2 inch in difference and 99% of people won't notice the difference, so try some different things and see what you proportions you like that best.

Here's a photo for reference on my 2 inch cuffs.

 

[Despos]

Incredible responses sifu.

Roughly how high do you mean by "even higher rise"? Is the belly button high enough?

Meant higher rise with forward pleats than reverse pleats. The rise should be right for your body type.

 

[EdwardWilson]

5'7. 2 inch cuff, no break.

View attachment 1640519

This is fantastic. Well done.

 

[Potatoe]

mt