Traveling tailor question

[dieworkwear]

Derek, how recently did you get stuff made with Steed? Steed now seems to be English Cut, English Cut now seems to be Redmayne, and I'm finding it very hard to keep up given that so much of the suit is dependent on the person vs the house.

It's a bit of a long story, but the short of it is: Steed is Steed and English Cut is English Cut. Edwin is the cutter for Steed. I don't know who's the cutter at the moment for English Cut (you can contact them to ask). Tom is at Redmayne.

My stuff is pretty recent. I have a sport coat and suit delivery on its way, and currently a couple of sport coats in the works.

 

[classicalthunde]

Derek, how recently did you get stuff made with Steed? Steed now seems to be English Cut, English Cut now seems to be Redmayne, and I'm finding it very hard to keep up given that so much of the suit is dependent on the person vs the house.

This post in the A&S Expats thread from Matt DeBoise details the Steed/English Cut relationship and where it is currently (or at least was as of January):

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...xpatriates-thread.67722/page-183#post-9608130

not sure about English Cut/Redmayne though...

 

[potter AB]

It's a bit of a long story, but the short of it is: Steed is Steed and English Cut is English Cut. Edwin is the cutter for Steed. I don't know who's the cutter at the moment for English Cut (you can contact them to ask). Tom is at Redmayne.

My stuff is pretty recent. I have a sport coat and suit delivery on its way, and currently a couple of sport coats in the works.

Another A&S expatriate Karl Matthews is the cutter for English Cut.

 

[lordsuperb]

Another A&S expatriate Karl Matthews is the cutter for English Cut.

No.

 

[Despos]

No.

You are a chatterbox today!

 

[lordsuperb]

Another A&S expatriate Karl Matthews is the cutter for English Cut.

You are a chatterbox today!

Sorry, I like one word responses. But to take things a step further I almost gave Karl Matthews a go when he had his own business but he stopped traveling to NYC and I ended up with my current tailor. My tailor helped English Cut for a little while and mentioned that cutting wasn't KM's specialty.

 

[clothingfun]

Hello again and I hope everyone is well. I believe this is the correct place to post this but if not someone please let me know. I don't spend a great deal of time on the internet and therefore am sometimes unsure of the proper protocols.

I recently had my first Dege and Skinner trunk show appointment and wanted to provide a brief update as it was a delightful experience. Also, to my surprise, I received a fair amount of messages from forum members politely asking for updates as they were very curious to know more so I figured I would oblige. There is a lot I could talk about but I'll just try and stick to the highlights. For starters, there was a change of plan with my garment. I originally planned on a three piece when I made the appointment. However, after I made the appointment and started thinking things through, it dawned on me how exceptionally rare it is that I wear a suit anymore. Therefore, I went with a sport coat and trousers (or what some call "odd trousers" I believe.) A jacket and open collar shirt with "odd trousers" is something I wear pretty frequently. Obviously, I want to buy something I am going to use.

The trunk show was pretty well attended. These folks appear to do good business. The head cutter Nick De'Ath and shirt cutter Tom Bradbury were there. Both were exceptionally friendly and pleasant gentlemen who more than took their time with me. Mr. De'Ath will be cutting my garment and both gentlemen will be present at all my future fittings/appointments. The measuring process and cloth book reviews went smoothly and relatively quickly as both these fellows are quite efficient. They answered all my questions and we also had time for some personal banter which was enjoyable. Obviously, I haven't had a fitting yet much less received a finished product. However, as I have stated previously, I'm not a newbie in regard to bespoke clothing and therefore have a pretty good idea of the process and some of the nuances that can only be gained from having experience as a bespoke customer. Therefore, in short, I feel quite confident I'm in very good hands and that I made a good choice. In fact, I didn't bother asking some of the questions I had because I quickly realized the best thing to do (at least at this juncture) is to just kind of follow their lead and let them work. Additionally, I had a very nice conversation with Mr. Bradbury about shirts. I was impressed with his knowledge and the examples of the product he had out. At my next appointment I'm seriously considering placing a shirt order to try them out.

On that note, which is somewhat related (and just a fun story anyway), while I was in town I visited the shirtmaker that I have been using for awhile now. It is a business called Anto that some may be familiar with. In fact, the last time I was in California was several years ago and that was the reason. Several years ago I made an appointment and made the trip to go through their measuring and fitting routine. I was very, very pleased with the end result and they have been making my shirts ever since. In particular, I'm a really big fan of their one piece collar designs. The style and craftsmanship is remarkable (not that it isn't on their other collars of course.) I figured since I was in town I would take a drive down to their BH location and say hello (I called ahead and made an appointment.) They treated me like an old friend and we reviewed my pattern and I placed an order to have a few made up. That said, I'm still confident I will give Mr. Bradbury some business as well and see how I like his work.

To sum it up; all went well and it was a very relaxing and much needed brief vacation. However, now it is time to return to "regular life." As immensely enjoyable, relaxing, and needed, as this vacation was I need to get back to work now to finish paying for all this!

 

[jdp234]

Hello again and I hope everyone is well. I believe this is the correct place to post this but if not someone please let me know. I don't spend a great deal of time on the internet and therefore am sometimes unsure of the proper protocols.

I recently had my first Dege and Skinner trunk show appointment and wanted to provide a brief update as it was a delightful experience. Also, to my surprise, I received a fair amount of messages from forum members politely asking for updates as they were very curious to know more so I figured I would oblige. There is a lot I could talk about but I'll just try and stick to the highlights. For starters, there was a change of plan with my garment. I originally planned on a three piece when I made the appointment. However, after I made the appointment and started thinking things through, it dawned on me how exceptionally rare it is that I wear a suit anymore. Therefore, I went with a sport coat and trousers (or what some call "odd trousers" I believe.) A jacket and open collar shirt with "odd trousers" is something I wear pretty frequently. Obviously, I want to buy something I am going to use.

The trunk show was pretty well attended. These folks appear to do good business. The head cutter Nick De'Ath and shirt cutter Tom Bradbury were there. Both were exceptionally friendly and pleasant gentlemen who more than took their time with me. Mr. De'Ath will be cutting my garment and both gentlemen will be present at all my future fittings/appointments. The measuring process and cloth book reviews went smoothly and relatively quickly as both these fellows are quite efficient. They answered all my questions and we also had time for some personal banter which was enjoyable. Obviously, I haven't had a fitting yet much less received a finished product. However, as I have stated previously, I'm not a newbie in regard to bespoke clothing and therefore have a pretty good idea of the process and some of the nuances that can only be gained from having experience as a bespoke customer. Therefore, in short, I feel quite confident I'm in very good hands and that I made a good choice. In fact, I didn't bother asking some of the questions I had because I quickly realized the best thing to do (at least at this juncture) is to just kind of follow their lead and let them work. Additionally, I had a very nice conversation with Mr. Bradbury about shirts. I was impressed with his knowledge and the examples of the product he had out. At my next appointment I'm seriously considering placing a shirt order to try them out.

On that note, which is somewhat related (and just a fun story anyway), while I was in town I visited the shirtmaker that I have been using for awhile now. It is a business called Anto that some may be familiar with. In fact, the last time I was in California was several years ago and that was the reason. Several years ago I made an appointment and made the trip to go through their measuring and fitting routine. I was very, very pleased with the end result and they have been making my shirts ever since. In particular, I'm a really big fan of their one piece collar designs. The style and craftsmanship is remarkable (not that it isn't on their other collars of course.) I figured since I was in town I would take a drive down to their BH location and say hello (I called ahead and made an appointment.) They treated me like an old friend and we reviewed my pattern and I placed an order to have a few made up. That said, I'm still confident I will give Mr. Bradbury some business as well and see how I like his work.

To sum it up; all went well and it was a very relaxing and much needed brief vacation. However, now it is time to return to "regular life." As immensely enjoyable, relaxing, and needed, as this vacation was I need to get back to work now to finish paying for all this!

What kind of jacket and pants? Fabric etc?

 

[clothingfun]

What kind of jacket and pants? Fabric etc?

Hello and thanks for your interest. For the jacket I decided on a fabric from Porter and Harding “Glorious Twelfth.” It is a very nice shade of blue with a windowpane pattern that is a “burnt orange(ish)” type of color for lack of a better description. Notch lapels and with a one button design instead of two. The pants are a nice darker shade of tan in a Scabal 260 gram weight. I guess kind of think khaki chinos color but worsted wool instead of cotton. Side tabs instead of belt loops, no pleats, and I decided to go with a button fly instead of zipper. Like a one button coat, I’ve never owned button fly dress pants either before so I figured I would try it for the sake of variety. Also, part of making these decisions was based on listening to what Mr. De’Ath and Mr. Bradbury had to say and suggest. Any other questions by all means let me know.

I won’t have a fitting for a few months but when I do would I would enjoy giving some updates. I noticed the thread titled “Ongoing Bespoke Projects.” I’m assuming that may be a better place to post these updates instead of here? If anyone reading this such as yourself, the moderators, more regular participants, etc. believe that to be the case please let me know. Thanks!

Anyways, thanks again to all for reading and just to reiterate I really enjoyed my first appointment and look forward to seeing how everything ends up coming together.