Too Big For Tailoring?

[Hayward]

Hi Gents

I've been out of the business world for a while now and am getting back in. Part of that process has involved slimming down. As a result I have a few bespoke suits that no longer fit me. Right now I fit 44 regular off the rack, though tight in the shoulders.

I contacted a suitmaker recently about getting a new bespoke suit. He's known for a house style that is popular now, that's all I'll say.

He turned me away. Said that anyone bigger than 42 was "out of his range". I asked for a referral and he has yet to reply.

Are there technical reasons for why he would make such a decision or was he simply being a cock? Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

There are no technical reasons for not being able to suit someone of your size, other than a lack of ability on his part. It's not like size 44 is even that big, there are plenty of tailors who have no trouble cutting for very large customers. The only possible reason I can think of for turning you away is it this person is known for a particular cut or silhouette which they want to be associated with their 'brand' and to be apparent in every item they make, and which they may not be able to execute on a larger customer.

Either way though, it's an indication that you might be better off finding a different tailor, any tailor who would turn you away for a reason like this is probably not someone you want to be using anyway.

 

[Blackhood]

Indeed, off the rack I used to routinely sell 52" chest jackets.

Could it be that he charges by the suit, and so larger sizes (requiring more cloth) are less profitable? Other than that, it sounds like Your size is simply incompatible with their look, for example a TaT suit wouldn't be a good choice.

 

[JHBU2011]

If your tailor was american, he would be out of business here in a few years when majority of people will be overweight/obese lol..

 

[Superfluous]

I kind of understand where he's coming from. For example, I don't think a Tom Ford suit would look good/how he wants on a size 46...

 

[Hayward]

I can understand that too, but there are better ways to convey that to the customer.

 

[David Reeves]

I often get "typecast" as someone who makes "skinny suits" because people see me and and I am rather tall and slim so they think thats just who I make for. In fact I just make suits that fit people whatever there size or shape. This client is wearing a made to measure or custom sport coat and trousers that I made him, he is a size 48 and is around 6,3. I think it looks pretty good. Its a picture taken at a fitting as an aid memoir so its not even the finished article. I reoriented the sleeve pitch and put the button stance in the right place (a tad lower) before delivery.

 

[Nicola]

I'm guessing this thread is about TAT?

 

[Hayward]

Hmmm.

English style: Check

Will Fit Big Guys: Check

In US and Affordable: Check

As soon as I hit 195 (I'm 205 now, down from 230) I'll be in touch.

 

[David Reeves]



I often get "typecast" as someone who makes "skinny suits" because people see me and and I am rather tall and slim so they think thats just who I make for. In fact I just make suits that fit people whatever there size or shape. This client is wearing a made to measure or custom sport coat and trousers that I made him, he is a size 48 and is around 6,3. I think it looks pretty good. Its a picture taken at a fitting as an aid memoir so its not even the finished article. I reoriented the sleeve pitch and put the button stance in the right place (a tad lower) before delivery.

Actually I was just going over his specs he's a 54 not even close to 48.

 

[GBR]

Presumably a cheap skate organisation that does not offer bespoke but does offer MTM. I would suspect something then to do with their blocks and inabilities.

 

[Nereis]

Some things like skinny lapels just do not look good on people who are too large.

 

[esoterica2006]



I kind of understand where he's coming from. For example, I don't think a Tom Ford suit would look good/how he wants on a size 46...

Me at recent wedding wearing Tom Ford Size 46 (EU56):

Ok, not best pic, and have hand in my pocket, but I think it looks pretty good..

Just wanted to stick up for the larger 6'2"+ guys who train hard in the gym - Just because we work hard and gain a bigger build, it won't necessarily mean we look like a big lump squeezed into a bag of cloth.

I think a great deal depends on the shape of larger guy - big on top with narrow/tapered core will (I think) always look good and generally fall within a house's desired look, whereas no doubt a large chest with even larger middle will likely struggle to.

 

[jamesny]

what's the name of the suitmaker? they should definitely wok on their customer service skills.

 

[yachtie]



Hi Gents

I've been out of the business world for a while now and am getting back in. Part of that process has involved slimming down. As a result I have a few bespoke suits that no longer fit me. Right now I fit 44 regular off the rack, though tight in the shoulders.

I contacted a suitmaker recently about getting a new bespoke suit. He's known for a house style that is popular now, that's all I'll say.

He turned me away. Said that anyone bigger than 42 was "out of his range". I asked for a referral and he has yet to reply.

Are there technical reasons for why he would make such a decision or was he simply being a cock? Any thoughts?

Thanks

What they're selling is not bespoke. Period.