Thoughts on this Potential Bespoke Commission

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

That being said, I like the idea of epaulettes. I have them on mine.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by yachtie

 

[DocHolliday]

I'll toss in with the "no epaulettes" crowd. With an item like this, less is more, and that would be the first thing I'd axe.

Epaulettes always remind me of Roger Moore in "The Man With the Golden Gun." Can't say I care for them, or for the movie.

 

[TheFoo]

^^^ I dunno, I think the nature of this jacket actually requires such details. If it was about 'less is more', why all the pockets? No one is seriously going to use them. To me, this jacket is all about the vaguely military air. The epaulettes lend to that. Plus, they make me feel fancy (in a masculine way).

 

[DocHolliday]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

^^^ I dunno, I think the nature of such a jacket actually requires such details. If it was about 'less is more', why all the pockets? No one is seriously going to use them. To me, this kind of jacket is all about the vaguely military air. The epaulettes lend to that. Plus, they make me feel fancy.

It's funny you mention the military, as that's exactly what I don't like about it. I'm not in the military, have never been in the military, have no plans to join the military, and so don't want to wear clothing that conspicuously invokes military imagery. Besides, I'm a skinny little dude, and such clothes would only look like macho posturing on me.

 

[TheFoo]

^^^ It's probably just my Napoleon complex showing through.

 

[Phil Ossiffee]

This is much simpler than your proposed design, but it uses a much heavier material, unstructured. Sorry it's not a great shot (the spottiness must be the flash) but ran out of time. It's a 4 button front (might normally use 1-2 of them), sport jacket style buttons on the sleeve cuffs. Maybe it's a little help?

 

[kolecho]

OP,

Do it as short as possible, just enough to cover your rear as the fronts have squared ends like a shirt. This is a shirt jacket, so I would not put in any padding or have any canvas. Think of it as a shirt. Choice of cloth is critical since there will be no structure. A cloth with lots of body is essential. A good tweed is one that comes to mind for winter use.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

Epaulettes always remind me of Roger Moore

I know

yachtie - you raise some good points. Maybe I shouldn't half-line it after all. Yes, the cloth is a solid.

mafoofan: Where would one buy such a jacket RTW in the US? I haven't seen one like this, though I don't window shop much.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by Phil Ossiffee

This is much simpler than your proposed design, but it uses a much heavier material, unstructured. Sorry it's not a great shot (the spottiness must be the flash) but ran out of time. It's a 4 button front (might normally use 1-2 of them), sport jacket style buttons on the sleeve cuffs. Maybe it's a little help?

Thanks for the pic Phil. I think the one you posted just looks like a slightly tweaked sportcoat with patch pockets. As maffofan put it, I am looking for something with a militaristic air.

 

[chorse123]

If you like the one by Carl, why not just go see him since you're going to be in NYC?

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by chorse123

If you like the one by Carl, why not just go see him since you're going to be in NYC?

Because I'm proposing more of a looser and longer jacket to be worn over a heavy sweater, rather than a fitted shirt jacket. I assume this'll require a suit tailors work?

 

[chorse123]

Good point.

 

[whacked]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Eustace, have you considered just doing this RTW? I bought a similar jacket from Marinella last year. It has many of the features you're looking for and was much cheaper than bespoke. The style is trendy right now; I'm sure you could find a high-quality version.

I second this. Engineered Garments (a brand much loved over at SW&D) makes 2 great jackets in this style in various types of fabric.
the Norfolk (pictured is the herringbone version)

the Bedford

As with all EG designs, these should be roomy enough for your needs since they're meant to be layered over other garments.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

mafoofan: Where would one buy such a jacket RTW in the US? I haven't seen one like this, though I don't window shop much.

The jackets were all over Rome last spring; if you believe GQ and Esquire, the trend is trickling down to the U.S. I know Fay makes a version. I did a quick and dirty search online and this is what I found:

http://www.jpressonline.com/outerwea...etail.php?ix=2

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatP...lt_color=Khaki

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatP...lt_color=Olive

http://www.bergdorfgoodman.com/store...63500cat255915

There are also a few on the Saks website. Neiman Marcus has an absurdly expensive Brunello Cucinelli version in microfiber ($2,500!). Paul Stuart has a few, but they're also all microfiber.