Thoughts on this Potential Bespoke Commission

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Eustace Tilley, Mar 29, 2008.

  1. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Likes Received:
    306
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    I'm thinking of trying out a somewhat odd design for a casual winter coat (weekend wear with jeans) and plan on using Hemrajani for the trial version.

    The idea is to get something similar to whoopee's shirtjacket below, but with some changes:

    1. I'll lenghthen the coat by 2"
    2. Add epaulettes
    3. Turnback cuffs
    3. No padding whatsover, and I'll ask the tailors to use the lightest canvas possible
    4. The coat will be half-lined

    I have a nice dark grey lightweight flannel (10-11oz.) stored up which I'll provide to Hemrajani. Any thoughts?

    [​IMG]
     


  2. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

    Messages:
    4,078
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    U.S.A.
    Any thoughts?
    Why not go whole hog and add an action back, belt and suede elbow patches.......
     




  3. speedster.8

    speedster.8 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,697
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2007
    sounds like you want a jacket. I made whoppee a shirt out of very soft cashmere. your design sounds a bit Busy! Carl
    +1 on all counts, I think a safari jacket ...
     


  4. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,384
    Likes Received:
    2,047
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2006
    Location:
    The wild and the pure.
    I'm not sure you could really improve on Carl's design. I suppose you could lengthen it a touch, and I prefer a slightly larger collar on my safari jacket, but I wouldn't go to anything more extreme. Mine only has pleats on the lower pockets, and the wrist closure has a slightly different detail, but it is basically the same as Whoopee's.

    I think a jacket version looks too much like you are from the 1970s.
     


  5. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Likes Received:
    238
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    I'm not sure I quite approve of a shirt-jacket. Perhaps what you're looking for is a safari jacket.
     


  6. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Likes Received:
    306
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    I guess it is kind of like a safari jacket, but to elaborate I intend mine to be much looser, and meant to be worn over a heavy sweater. My concern, like Carl's, is the design I have proposed is a touch busy.

    Matt - would you happen to have any pics of your jacket?
     


  7. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

    Messages:
    3,819
    Likes Received:
    95
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2006
    Location:
    North GA
    I approve....damn.
    I like it at it is, I also like the length a great deal.
     


  8. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,384
    Likes Received:
    2,047
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2006
    Location:
    The wild and the pure.
    I guess it is kind of like a safari jacket, but to elaborate I intend mine to be much looser, and meant to be worn over a heavy sweater. My concern, like Carl's, is the design I have proposed is a touch busy.

    Matt - would you happen to have any pics of your jacket?

    I'll take some the next time I wear it, or the next time I have jeans on. Today, I am a little bit too casual to do it justice as I am doing some shit around the house. Maybe tomorrow.
     


  9. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,144
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2004
    Location:
    San Francisco
    I'm thinking of trying out a somewhat odd design for a casual winter coat (weekend wear with jeans) and plan on using Hemrajani for the trial version.

    The idea is to get something similar to whoopee's shirtjacket below, but with some changes:

    1. I'll lenghthen the coat by 2"
    2. Add epaulettes
    3. Turnback cuffs
    3. No padding whatsover, and I'll ask the tailors to use the lightest canvas possible
    4. The coat will be half-lined

    I have a nice dark grey lightweight flannel (10-11oz.) stored up which I'll provide to Hemrajani. Any thoughts?


    I am happy with Hemrajani's shirts but their tailored clothing, even simple things like trousers, leaves a lot to be desired in my experience. So I'll be interested in this project as I was thinking about having a couple linen shirt jackets made this year.

    If HT doesn't work, Chan has the opposite problem. Better tailored clothing but the shirts are not as good.
     


  10. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Likes Received:
    306
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    I'll take some the next time I wear it, or the next time I have jeans on. Today, I am a little bit too casual to do it justice as I am doing some shit around the house. Maybe tomorrow.

    Thanks Matt - I appreciate it.

    Will: I will keep you updated.
     


  11. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

    Messages:
    4,553
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    May 11, 2006
    I'm thinking of trying out a somewhat odd design for a casual winter coat (weekend wear with jeans) and plan on using Hemrajani for the trial version.

    The idea is to get something similar to whoopee's shirtjacket below, but with some changes:

    1. I'll lenghthen the coat by 2"

    sounds okay but you'll want a vent then.
    [​IMG] No way
    sounding busier and busier- barrel cuffs would go better IMO
    This sounds good- mebbe a little padding to even the shoulders etc.
    If it's a flannel you should do a full lining else it'll stick on your sweater- and it'll help it keep its shape

    The cloth sounds nice- is it a solid?
     


  12. bcate3

    bcate3 Senior member

    Messages:
    416
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2007

    If HT doesn't work, Chan has the opposite problem. Better tailored clothing but the shirts are not as good.


    I had the same view until I received a few shirts from Chan Shanghai. Those seem to be better made than the ones from HK.
     


  13. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

    Messages:
    4,078
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    U.S.A.

    Will: I will keep you updated.

    Seriously, do you really think Will gives a flying....
     


  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,840
    Likes Received:
    2,053
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Eustace, have you considered just doing this RTW? I bought a similar jacket from Marinella last year. It has many of the features you're looking for and was much cheaper than bespoke. The style is trendy right now; I'm sure you could find a high-quality version.

    That being said, I like the idea of epaulettes. I have them on mine.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by