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Thoughts on this Potential Bespoke Commission

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Eustace Tilley, Mar 29, 2008.

  1. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I'm thinking of trying out a somewhat odd design for a casual winter coat (weekend wear with jeans) and plan on using Hemrajani for the trial version.

    The idea is to get something similar to whoopee's shirtjacket below, but with some changes:

    1. I'll lenghthen the coat by 2"
    2. Add epaulettes
    3. Turnback cuffs
    3. No padding whatsover, and I'll ask the tailors to use the lightest canvas possible
    4. The coat will be half-lined

    I have a nice dark grey lightweight flannel (10-11oz.) stored up which I'll provide to Hemrajani. Any thoughts?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    Any thoughts?
    Why not go whole hog and add an action back, belt and suede elbow patches.......
     
  3. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    sounds like you want a jacket.
    I made whoppee a shirt out of very soft cashmere.

    your design sounds a bit Busy!

    Carl
     
  4. speedster.8

    speedster.8 Senior member

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    sounds like you want a jacket. I made whoppee a shirt out of very soft cashmere. your design sounds a bit Busy! Carl
    +1 on all counts, I think a safari jacket ...
     
  5. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not sure you could really improve on Carl's design. I suppose you could lengthen it a touch, and I prefer a slightly larger collar on my safari jacket, but I wouldn't go to anything more extreme. Mine only has pleats on the lower pockets, and the wrist closure has a slightly different detail, but it is basically the same as Whoopee's.

    I think a jacket version looks too much like you are from the 1970s.
     
  6. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    I'm not sure I quite approve of a shirt-jacket. Perhaps what you're looking for is a safari jacket.
     
  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I guess it is kind of like a safari jacket, but to elaborate I intend mine to be much looser, and meant to be worn over a heavy sweater. My concern, like Carl's, is the design I have proposed is a touch busy.

    Matt - would you happen to have any pics of your jacket?
     
  8. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    I approve....damn.
    I like it at it is, I also like the length a great deal.
     
  9. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I guess it is kind of like a safari jacket, but to elaborate I intend mine to be much looser, and meant to be worn over a heavy sweater. My concern, like Carl's, is the design I have proposed is a touch busy.

    Matt - would you happen to have any pics of your jacket?

    I'll take some the next time I wear it, or the next time I have jeans on. Today, I am a little bit too casual to do it justice as I am doing some shit around the house. Maybe tomorrow.
     
  10. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm thinking of trying out a somewhat odd design for a casual winter coat (weekend wear with jeans) and plan on using Hemrajani for the trial version.

    The idea is to get something similar to whoopee's shirtjacket below, but with some changes:

    1. I'll lenghthen the coat by 2"
    2. Add epaulettes
    3. Turnback cuffs
    3. No padding whatsover, and I'll ask the tailors to use the lightest canvas possible
    4. The coat will be half-lined

    I have a nice dark grey lightweight flannel (10-11oz.) stored up which I'll provide to Hemrajani. Any thoughts?


    I am happy with Hemrajani's shirts but their tailored clothing, even simple things like trousers, leaves a lot to be desired in my experience. So I'll be interested in this project as I was thinking about having a couple linen shirt jackets made this year.

    If HT doesn't work, Chan has the opposite problem. Better tailored clothing but the shirts are not as good.
     
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I'll take some the next time I wear it, or the next time I have jeans on. Today, I am a little bit too casual to do it justice as I am doing some shit around the house. Maybe tomorrow.

    Thanks Matt - I appreciate it.

    Will: I will keep you updated.
     
  12. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    I'm thinking of trying out a somewhat odd design for a casual winter coat (weekend wear with jeans) and plan on using Hemrajani for the trial version.

    The idea is to get something similar to whoopee's shirtjacket below, but with some changes:

    1. I'll lenghthen the coat by 2"

    sounds okay but you'll want a vent then.
    [​IMG] No way
    sounding busier and busier- barrel cuffs would go better IMO
    This sounds good- mebbe a little padding to even the shoulders etc.
    If it's a flannel you should do a full lining else it'll stick on your sweater- and it'll help it keep its shape

    The cloth sounds nice- is it a solid?
     
  13. bcate3

    bcate3 Senior member

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    If HT doesn't work, Chan has the opposite problem. Better tailored clothing but the shirts are not as good.


    I had the same view until I received a few shirts from Chan Shanghai. Those seem to be better made than the ones from HK.
     
  14. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    Will: I will keep you updated.

    Seriously, do you really think Will gives a flying....
     
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Eustace, have you considered just doing this RTW? I bought a similar jacket from Marinella last year. It has many of the features you're looking for and was much cheaper than bespoke. The style is trendy right now; I'm sure you could find a high-quality version.

    That being said, I like the idea of epaulettes. I have them on mine.
     
  16. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    That being said, I like the idea of epaulettes. I have them on mine.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  18. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'll toss in with the "no epaulettes" crowd. With an item like this, less is more, and that would be the first thing I'd axe.

    Epaulettes always remind me of Roger Moore in "The Man With the Golden Gun." Can't say I care for them, or for the movie.
     
  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^ I dunno, I think the nature of this jacket actually requires such details. If it was about 'less is more', why all the pockets? No one is seriously going to use them. To me, this jacket is all about the vaguely military air. The epaulettes lend to that. Plus, they make me feel fancy (in a masculine way).
     
  20. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^ I dunno, I think the nature of such a jacket actually requires such details. If it was about 'less is more', why all the pockets? No one is seriously going to use them. To me, this kind of jacket is all about the vaguely military air. The epaulettes lend to that. Plus, they make me feel fancy.

    It's funny you mention the military, as that's exactly what I don't like about it. I'm not in the military, have never been in the military, have no plans to join the military, and so don't want to wear clothing that conspicuously invokes military imagery. Besides, I'm a skinny little dude, and such clothes would only look like macho posturing on me.
     

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