There's a blazer I'm interested in... BUT

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by RyanR7, Jan 27, 2016.

  1. RyanR7

    RyanR7 Member

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    http://us.suitsupply.com/en_US/jackets/havana-light-brown-plain/C942I.html?cgid=Jackets

    Suitsupply jackets are much different in sizing fit compared to other brands out there. Specifically for this one I'm looking at, the smallest size I can get for my height and measurements is a 36S. The shoulders


    Shoulders Chest Upper Waist Sleeve Back Length
    36S 17.3 40.6 37.4 32.2 28

    What I find interesting about this is for a 36S of their jacket size, the chest is at 40.6 inches. So everything is bigger.

    My measurements are:

    Shoulders 18 inches (I'm sure my shoulders will fit)
    Chest 37 inches
    Upper waist 32 inches



    So obviously I'm going to bring this jacket to a tailor. The question is, is it possible to tailor this jacket to fit my body?

    Questions:

    How much can I take in the jacket? I'm a 37S so the ideal chest size would be around 37 inches.

    How much can I take in the torso area (upper waist)?

    The sleeves have real functioning buttons. Is it possible to tailor them shorter?

    Same question for Back Length. Would it pose a problem running into the lower pockets of the jacket by cutting it shorter?


    I need someone who really knows there stuff. I really need your help all of you who know your fashion dapper game really well.
     


  2. Astaroth

    Astaroth Senior member

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    If your chest physically measures 37" then your ideal jacket is not going to be 37" in size.

    A size "37" jacket is to FIT a chest that measures 37" and doesnt mean the jacket itself is 37". If it were it would be stretched the second you put it on given it itself has volume and would give you no space to move at all

    A good tailor can fix most fit issue but if its cost effective is another question as at some point you get to the point of retailoring the whole jacket in which case you may as well have had bespoke. Whilst a tailor can only give you a guide before seeing you in the item why not ask your chosen tailor what they think?
     


  3. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Most RTW coat-makers cut the coat chest to be 4 inches bigger than the sized chest measure. Some slim fits will make it only 3 inches bigger. If your chest is 37, you probably want a coat with a 41 inch chest.

    You've tried this jacket on, right? If not, I'd be very careful if my shoulders were .7 inches broader than the coat's shoulder measurement. That means you have .35 of an inch to fit in the sleevehead on either side. That sounds fine in theory, but if this is all prior to try-on, all it takes is one different method of measuring for you to end up with a coat whose shoulders don't fit.
     


  4. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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    Fortunately SuitSupply offers free shipping and free returns, so you have little to lose by trying it on. Do not get it tailored, however, unless you and your tailor think it is worth altering.

    Specifically:
    1. agree with Testudo_Aubreii that you should be careful about the shoulders. It's not just about the shoulder width but also whether the size of the armhole will be large enough for your shoulder/upper arm. Shoulders in particular are difficult to alter well and rarely worth it.

    2. you may not need to alter the chest. It can be taken in by about 1 inch in circumference without too much trouble. Same with the waist. Be careful not to suppress the waist too much as you don't want an hourglass-shaped jacket.

    3. shortening the jacket body significantly (say more than 1/2 inch) is typically not a good idea as it is likely to throw the visual balance of the jacket off. The patch pockets could be moved upwards to compensate (but of course the buttoning point can't be changed, so shortening the jacket in a way lowers the buttoning point visually), or the jacket shortened by only a small amount, but again, ask yourself whether either of these options is worth the trouble.

    4. sleeves with working buttons cannot be shortened too much at the sleeve, since the buttonholes have been cut and cannot be moved. You don't want the last button to be too close to the end of the sleeve--that looks strange. If you need more than ~0.5-0.75 inches (you'd have to look at the actual sleeves to know) then the sleeves would have to be shortened at the shoulder, which is again probably not worth the trouble.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2016


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